695 mods and revamp

[seevtsaab]

Simply. Amazing.

[suzyj]

I've updated the loom diagram to show the changes that I'm making (not including rerouting).

The image is pretty grainy unfortunately. The google photos version:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/114069696154074856835/albums/5761855448248757009/5761855446189296578

is better (click options - download original), but still nowhere near as readable as the svg original. If anyone wants that, PM an email address and I'll send it to you.

In any case, modifications are:

• Remove park wiring. This means removing the wiring going from the ignition switch park position that drives the little globe in the headlight, and also the taillight (no more accidental flat batteries). The ignition switch connector is now reduced to a 2 pin one (from 6), and the headlight from 4 to 3 pins.
• Add power distribution board. This replaces the fusebox, plus the fuel pump and headlight relay. I can now run light gauge wire to the ignition switch, and also to the headlight high/low beam switch. Using mosfets to control the headlights means that I can now run any headlight bulb I like with impunity, with no risk of melting the left-hand switch.

• Buffered the starter contactor. I made a little board that has a power mosfet to drive the contactor, rather than loading up the ECU. Hopefully that'll cure my intermittent start problems.

I toyed with removing the O2 sensor and immobiliser antenna, as I'm going to get my ECU reflashed, but decided to leave them in. It's not a huge amount of wiring.

I just spent all my pocket money on crimp tools, so when they arrive I'll be able to finalise the loom.

[lazylightnin717]

Unfortunately, I don't understand the wiring one bit

But

Everything else looks nothing short of amazing

Seriously

Fantastic work with the heads and one clean looking bike 

[Buckethead]

Will you come do my bike next? 

Pretty please?

[suzyj]

Here's how the regulator/rectifier wiring turned out. I swapped the stock regulator for a Shindengen FH020AA mosfet one, from motoelectrix. I bought a thumping big Hero BL-255 (A really high quality Japanese made tool, despite the funny sounding name) crimp tool from Eastern beaver, and went at it.

Here's the business end of the crimp tool:



Here's what it does to the Furikawa terminals used to connect to the rectifier/regulator:



Once the cover is on, they're nicely sealed.



Rinse, repeat, add some braid and heatshrink, and in a little while all the wiring for the rectifier/regulator, battery, and 30A fuse is sorted:



And from the top side:



Now for the fun bit. I'm a bit of a ditz, and sometimes I can't remember if the red wire goes to the + or the - (after all, I'm just a girl). Here's what happens when I short the gauge supply straight to ground:



Cool, huh. No sparks, no smoke, no burning. Not even a fuse to replace. Just a little red light to tell me there's a problem. The offending circuit is shut down until the fault is rectified, and then it just works again. It's Suzy proof!

[Two dogs]

Very tidy work there Suzy , now hurry up and get it back in one piece and come out for a ride
with the OzMonsters  .............................or has Perry got you chained up again 

[Raux]

ok. so again. why isn't Ducati doing it this way?

[suzyj]

ok. so again. why isn't Ducati doing it this way?

In reality, because they don't need to. Ordinary fuses and relays work perfectly well for nearly everybody, as long as they aren't OCD EE's, of course. For the 0.03% of the population that can't look at an electrical anything without redesigning it in their head, well there's a problem.

[seanster]

A true work of art....  

[suzyj]

Starter contactor buffer circuit:



And in context to show how teeny tiny it is:



This little board replaces the back emf diode that normally lives in a monster's loom. Basically I came to the conclusion after pulling an ECU apart that the driver transistor for the starter contactor wasn't really big enough to handle the current reliably. My contactor is a tad sticky, and occasionally doesn't engage. I found that the unreliable starting went away if I bypassed the ECU and simply put 12V on the contactor.

So this board does that, but using the ECU driver line as the input. It's good for much more current than is needed, so the voltage drop will be negligible - I expect it to completely cure my starting problems.

Oh, and I can connect my battery backwards with impunity - all that will happen is I'll blow the 30A fuse.  

Edit: For reference, the coil on my starter contactor measures 4.7 ohms. When energised, the coil draws 2.8A. That's a pretty hefty load, either for a starter button (on older monsters) or the ECU.

[Slide Panda]

I'm starting to think I want to download your brain... This is some cool stuff!

[corey]

suzy proof... sure.
but is it COREY proof? that's the true test.
i'm hoping that maybe in some way, my slight mishap with the starting circuit was somewhat of an inspiration

[Raux]

In reality, because they don't need to. Ordinary fuses and relays work perfectly well for nearly everybody, as long as they aren't OCD EE's, of course. For the 0.03% of the population that can't look at an electrical anything without redesigning it in their head, well there's a problem.

yeah but for a company that prides itself on tech and lightness, seems that this solution would be a must do for Ducati. Really think you should shop this to them

[kyle]

Cost will be way to prohibitive no doubt..

[Raux]

Cost will be way to prohibitive no doubt..

huh? how? a circuit board and standard off the shelf components? smaller guage wires and less of it?
serious other than the design, which is done (selling point again for you Suzy), this HAS to be cheaper in large scale than the current wiring.