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Author Topic: Biggest bang for buck speed/handling mods  (Read 5865 times)
makowb
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« on: April 25, 2012, 08:58:33 PM »

Just picked up my 2000 monster 750 last month and am loving it, but would love to throw a few hundred bucks more into it to get some more speed and handling, but I'm not willing to buy a $1000 forks like some of you guys are. What's the best cost to improvement ratio?

I already have:
  • ohlins shock
  • raised rear end doing the ducati suite mod
  • open air box with k&n high flow filter
  • remus exhaust

I've looked into and am considering:
  • 14t front sprocket
  • Lightened flywheel
  • front fork springs from traxxion and oil
  • new ignition coils from ca cycleworks

Not willing to spend more than 200$ on any one item or put on rear sets (frequent passenger).

Would taking off the exhaust help compensate for the decreased high end from the 14t front sprocket?
« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 09:12:31 PM by makowb » Logged

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koko64
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« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2012, 12:29:25 AM »

Thats a good list of upgrades.

Gearing change is a great mod.
Be wary of a 14 T sprocket with raised rear ride height so the chain doesnt gall the front swingarm and chain guide. Maybe a larger rear sprocket if your chain is long enough or else wait til its time to change chain and sprockets.

Buying a used flywheel and having it machined down will save money. Some light flywheels may cost more than $200 unless you find used.

Front suspension work to even things up with the excellent Ohlins out back is a great idea.
I run the Kelley coils and they're very good.
I assume you are running the appropriate jet kit for the open airbox/K&N mod. If not a good jet kit for that mod is important.
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« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2012, 02:32:55 AM »

used GSXR1000

 Grin
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« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2012, 03:11:30 AM »

the cheapest mod IMHO....is getting your spring and forks set for your weight...while maybe not within your budget per sey per your statement...people ride around on bikes that just aren't set up correctly for them in terms of the suspension overall...a properly set up bike, will instantly( almost) make the bike easier to handle...

beyond that...if you have the 3 spoke Brembo wheels on the bike, perhaps keep your eyes out for a set of lighter wheels....reducing unsprung weight also makes a tremendous difference....

these are both in terms of handling though...in terms of speed...you really aren't going to be able to do much of anything within your budget...going to a 14 tooth on the front will make it quicker off the line and less snatchey at lower speed, but you lose top end...not that a 750 has a lot of top end to begin with...so if you feel you need more speed/top end...then perhaps you need to re-evaluate the machine you have and look for another or come to terms with spending some real money on it....
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« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2012, 08:10:36 AM »

the cheapest mod IMHO....is getting your spring and forks set for your weight...
+1 !
beyond that...if you have the 3 spoke Brembo wheels on the bike, perhaps keep your eyes out for a set of lighter wheels....reducing unsprung weight also makes a tremendous difference....
Better than any $ thrown at the motor.

If you are going to do a flywheel, you need a carb'd 3-phase flywheel.   I would suggest contacting Frank at FFR for lightening your stock one - much more cost effective than buying the $300 Nichols for a mildly tuned 750.   Keihin FCR 39's would wake it up, but budget-wise rejetting what you've got for the open airbox is probably a better plan.

Taking off the exhaust won't do diddly-squat but make it uncomfortably loud and audibly 'pop' / backfire on decel.

I like the 14T idea. The coils make it feel "smoother" but won't make it go any faster.
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 08:11:52 AM »

I personally wouldn't do anything engine related. It's just not much of a return on investment, i.e., hp per $$ spent.

Focus on suspension and wheels. But none of those will come at a bargain price.

I was able to score a pair of S2R1k adjustable forks 2 years ago for $300 on ebay. More than what you're willing to spend on any one item, but it makes a big improvement. I know, I have a '99 750.  Grin

At some point I'll purchase a 900 motor and drop that bad boy in there.  bacon
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2012, 08:19:41 AM »

I personally wouldn't do anything engine related. It's just not much of a return on investment, i.e., hp per $$ spent.

Focus on suspension and wheels. But none of those will come at a bargain price.

I was able to score a pair of S2R1k adjustable forks 2 years ago for $300 on ebay. More than what you're willing to spend on any one item, but it makes a big improvement. I know, I have a '99 750.  Grin

At some point I'll purchase a 900 motor and drop that bad boy in there.  bacon

And those (900 motors) have come down in price pretty substantially over the years.  The good part about the 900 is that you can get the motor and rig up to work with your existing setup, generally (need different headers because the length to the port is different on the 900 than on the 750, and your carbs will need redid of course) - no complicated wiring or 'lectronics to reconfigure.   Try to pick a 98 or newer so you get the 3-phase charging system, like the one on your bike.   If you get an '00+ M900 motor (or 99 SS900 motor), you'll need to rig up a different ignition (like ignitech) to work off the IE motor's different signal-pickup.
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makowb
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« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2012, 03:14:00 PM »

Thanks all for your advice!

How heavy are the stock brembo wheels so I can compare them to lighter ones? Is there any kind of wheels I should be looking for in specific?

In terms of forks, would 996 forks work okay? I was looking at the gsxr fork swap thread but that looks like way too much effort. And how do I go about getting them set correctly for my weight? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, so doing adjustments on my own isn't an issue.

For the m900 engine, (I was also looking into this) you're saying the only easy years for me to do a full swap are 98 and 99? I've read I also need intake manifolds and headers like you mentioned.

So coils just make the powerband feel more even and smooth but really don't make it feel faster? Maybe not worth my 180$ right now...

14t sounds like a good idea, but I'll most likely need to either remove teeth or get a newer chain.

I'll look into lightening my own flywheel, thanks!
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« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2012, 03:28:29 PM »

No, you can use an earlier M900 or SS900 motor, only you'll need to make sure you get the regulator/rectifier for its different charging system.   The 98-99 are the most direct "bolt on" versions for your bike, I'd say.    Correct me if I'm wrong, peeps.


996 forks (or 748, 916, 998) are not a direct swap.  You would need to bore/shim your triple clamps to make them fit correctly. The SBK Showa forks are 53mm upper and 53mm lower, your Monster forks are 50mm upper and 54mm lower.  You bore upper and shim lower.   Or you buy proper aftermarket triples.   Either way you are looking at a lot of cash - a good condition set of SBK forks is a couple hundred bucks and you want to make sure they don't need seals, etc. (as that would add to the cost).

If you grab GSXR forks, one way to do it is to grab a set from the litre-bike which (you want to verify) are already 50/54 so they go right in the triples.  You'll want to grab the appropriate axle, front wheel, rotors, fender and brakes so everything plays nicely at the fork bottoms.  It could then be a more "direct" swap, but perhaps no cheaper with the requirement of all those additional parts.

The 996 forks use the same axle (hollow, 25mm) as your 2000 M750, and the brakes should also bolt right up. Likewise, the wheel and rotors work directly, as does your mechanical speedo sensor.

Wheels, I think, are your biggest bang for your buck.  You'll have a 25mm front axle and 17mm rear axle, iirc.  You don't need a 5.5" rear unless you just like a fat tire - the 4.5" wheel is probably plenty of rear meat to hold you on the road when you are on the gas if you have any kind of wrist control.  If you do put a 5.5" wheel on there, don't go nuts with a 180x55 rear tire - that's certainly overkill and needless additional weight. You'll be fine with the 170x60 and it actually makes the bike feel more nimble.   Go with forged aluminum as they are the cheapest of the upgrade wheels and also good for longevity (no concerns about magnesium degradation, etc).   Looking at the prices, a set of Carrozzeria wheels (not the lightest forged aluminum but so much lighter than the OEM silver 3-fat-spokes Brembo wheels you'll be pleased) are brand new for 1800 or less.  New (reputable-manufacturer) magnesium wheels cannot be had for less than $3500 bucks!
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Dellikose
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2012, 02:37:31 AM »

A lot of good info here...bookmarked.

I know, for me, the best thing that I can do to save weight is go on a diet. Tongue
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 03:52:02 AM »


Wheels, I think, are your biggest bang for your buck.  You'll have a 25mm front axle and 17mm rear axle, iirc.  You don't need a 5.5" rear unless you just like a fat tire - the 4.5" wheel is probably plenty of rear meat to hold you on the road when you are on the gas if you have any kind of wrist control.  If you do put a 5.5" wheel on there, don't go nuts with a 180x55 rear tire - that's certainly overkill and needless additional weight. You'll be fine with the 170x60 and it actually makes the bike feel more nimble.   Go with forged aluminum as they are the cheapest of the upgrade wheels and also good for longevity (no concerns about magnesium degradation, etc).   Looking at the prices, a set of Carrozzeria wheels (not the lightest forged aluminum but so much lighter than the OEM silver 3-fat-spokes Brembo wheels you'll be pleased) are brand new for 1800 or less.  New (reputable-manufacturer) magnesium wheels cannot be had for less than $3500 bucks!

where have you seen aftermarket 4.5"?
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 07:36:05 AM »

special request from several manufacturers.
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2012, 01:53:42 PM »

Michelin pr3s were deffinitly the best improvement I've made to my Duc.
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« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2012, 02:12:02 PM »

I've a 98 m750. Got an ohlins rear in the shed, yet to fit it. What I did do is put 98 m900 forks on the front, they're adjustable and a direct swap. Should be able to pick up a used pair for under $400. That's less than your $200 per fork Tongue wheels would be nice but won't make the price cut.
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« Reply #14 on: April 28, 2012, 03:03:35 PM »

the adjustable forks can really use reworking too if youre getting serious.  the adjustability is taken by many to mean they're a good fork, but they're not that flash.  better than the 40mm marzocchi crap on the 600 and 750, but it's a crap versus satisfactory sort of thing.
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