1st time valve adjustment

[bdfinally]

I had enough time this morning to mark my pulleys for vertical TDC and double check all my findings on TDC for the horiz. w/belt timing marks, before some rain set in (yes, I'm doing it outside on the sidewalk.)





blue marks are for vertical cyclinder, what looks white is actually gold and for the horizontal.

I found galleys in both the intake and exhaust sides of the vertical. Plugged those with M6 bolts.






Found a galley on the exhaust side of the horizontal. It appears a series of "tunnels" in the bottom of the intake side supply oil to the exhaust side.





I also picked up some 600 wet/dry sand paper and 3'x3/4" of oak dowel that I thought I could shape into a tool to wedge on the closer rocker if I need to remove the closers.

Anything else anyone sees I've missed? If not I'll pull the belt later this afternoon after this rain has passed or maybe tomorrow morning.

[EEL]

Youll need an 8mm allen to lock the closing rocker arm in place if you need to pop off a closing shim.

[bdfinally]

Youll need an 8mm allen to lock the closing rocker arm in place if you need to pop off a closing shim.

Really, I've seen the tool EMS sells and remember someone using an old wood handle reshaped to wedge in there. How do you us an 8mm?

[EEL]

The tool EMS uses pushes down the rocker arm. You can use whatever you want to do that. Even your thumb. The 8mm slides perfectly between the cam lobe and keeps the return spring from pushing the rocker arm back up.

It takes a little finesse but it has never failed me. Take the stubby end and wedge in.

[DucNaked]

The tool EMS uses pushes down the rocker arm. You can use whatever you want to do that. Even your thumb. The 8mm slides perfectly between the cam lobe and keeps the return spring from pushing the rocker arm back up.

It takes a little finesse but it has never failed me. Take the stubby end and wedge in.

^ This 

[bdfinally]

The tool EMS uses pushes down the rocker arm. You can use whatever you want to do that. Even your thumb. The 8mm slides perfectly between the cam lobe and keeps the return spring from pushing the rocker arm back up.

It takes a little finesse but it has never failed me. Take the stubby end and wedge in.

Thanks, I'll try that

[bdfinally]

Ok, belts off and did the clearance measurements. Set the vertical to TDC and then removed the belts. Measured the openers and then pressed on the rockers and measured the gap again. Set the horizontal to TDC, spun the cam pulley til it's tick mark line up and repeat the process. measurements were:

vertical intake
          opener    <.0015
          closer        .008

vertical exhaust
           opener   <.0015
           closer       .006


horizontal intake
               opener  .0035
               closer    .005

              exhaust
              opener   .004
              closer    .005

So if my math is correct the vertical is at .0065 and the exhaust .0045 loaded/unloaded and that cyclinder is way outta wack?

[bdfinally]

Isn't there another excel spreadsheet program for figuring clearance specs floating out there besides the EMS one? I think I'm confusing myself by converting my measurements to metric, plugging them in and then trying to convert back.

[Speeddog]

Not sure which measuring style you're using....

~~~SNIP~~~

vertical intake
           opener    <.0015
           closer        .008

~~~SNIP~~~

Is that "<.0015" the unloaded gap, and the ".008" the loaded gap?

If that's the case, your opener clearance is the <.0015, and closer clearance is ~.0065

[bdfinally]

Is that "<.0015" the unloaded gap, and the ".008" the loaded gap?

If that's the case, your opener clearance is the <.0015, and closer clearance is ~.0065

Yep, that's the way I did it. Sorry, I just wrote a couple of notations on a legal pad and then transfered it here w/o writing the math too. So VI closer gap is .0065, VE closer is .0045. and both those clearances are too big. The HI closer gap is .0015 and the HE closer gap is .001. Going by Chris Kelly's numbers (.003-.004 intakes, .004-.005 exhausts openers and <.001 closers) I'm at minimum on the exhaust side of the Horizontal, a bit off on the intake side and fairly far off on both sides of the vertical?

[Speeddog]

So, your clearances are:

HIO .0035
HIC .0015
HEO .004
HEC .001

VIO <.0015
VIC ~.0065
VEO <.0015
VEC ~.0045

You could chase the HIC down a bit, and yes, all of your verticals need to be fixed.

[bdfinally]

So my target on the vertical intake opener is .003, so .0065 - .003 = .0035. Target on the exhaust opener is .004, so .0045 - .004 =.0005


Pull the openers from the vertical, measure w/micrometer and add .0035 to the intake, .0005 to the exhaust = new shim sizes?


Closers, I'm shakey on. Would it be .0065 - .001 = .0055 + current closer size = new intake closer?

[Speeddog]

Yes, you've got the math correct.

I recommend targeting the larger end of the range on the openers, .004 for the intakes, .005 for the exhausts.
Generally, the valves and seats wear, so that opener clearances get smaller, and closer clearances get bigger.

Shims are available in .05mm (.002) steps, so you may have to get a larger shim and sand it down in some cases.

A brand new shim of a specific size will fit tighter than a used shim of that same size, as the area where the half-rings sit does wear as the engine runs.

If you're getting shims in person, bring *your* measuring equipment, and measure the shims you're buying.
Trusting that the shim that's in a particular bin is the same size as what the bin is labeled, will bite you.
As will trusting the size on the shim, if it's marked.

[bdfinally]

Thanks Dog, I appreciate the confirmation.

So if I'm targeting the upper range, I'd actually sand off .0005 of the VE opener since my value is now a negative. How easy is it to take .0005" off a shim?

I got to say, dealing with this for the first time, some of these measurements just strike me as almost infinitesimal.

[Speeddog]

VEO?
You want that to be about .005"

Your measurement says it is <.0015"

You would need to sand off .0035" or more.
Don't do that.
Buy a shim that's closer to the correct thickness.

Start with 300 grit: