Ohlins Forks fit question

[vw151]

All,

I have an S2R1000 and I've always wanted to swap to a S4Rs front end with the ohlins forks and radial brembo calipers.  

So I have a couple questions.  


Will my front wheel and brake rotors work in the S4RS calipers?

Can I expand my search to forks from the new monster 1100S?

Are there any other bikes that have direct bolt on ohlins forks and Brembo radial calipers?

Lastly, any guess on how much I'd probably spend on a used set and what I could get for my 4 piston calipers and adjustable Showa forks, my showas are actually sliders TiN coated because I got them off an S4 fogarty, long story there.

Thanks in advance.

[Link]

Contact Dan He is the Ohlins guru  http://www.shop.kyleusa.com/main.sc

[vw151]

Contact Dan He is the Ohlins guru  http://www.shop.kyleusa.com/main.sc

I'll have to send him a message.   

Anyone at least know if new generation monster forks go onto old gen monsters?

[junior varsity]

Yes. Monster forks are 50mm upper and 54mm lower diameters where the triples clamp.  This dates all the way back to 1993/1994 with the first M900's (axles change over the years though, along with the fork bottoms - and so as you see, so does the caliper mount).

the only concern is whether the s4rs fork bottoms / calipers position the calipers (laterally) equal to the axial-mounted S2R1000 calipers.  On the radial front end superbikes (749/999, 848/1098/1198), they switched from 6-bolt rotor mount pattern front wheels (rotors have 10mm offset) to 5-bolt rotor mount pattern (rotors have 15mm offset).   I do not recall offhand what the S4RS wheel setup is, but my guess is it is the latter.  You could put 5mm shims behind the rotor at each bolt and that might solve your problem, while using the original S2R1000 wheel. You may still need to insert proper wheel spacers on the axle, though.

[JohnEE]

The adjustable showa forks go for around 250-400$ on flea bay, depending on use/quality.

[vw151]

Yes. Monster forks are 50mm upper and 54mm lower diameters where the triples clamp.  This dates all the way back to 1993/1994 with the first M900's (axles change over the years though, along with the fork bottoms - and so as you see, so does the caliper mount).

the only concern is whether the s4rs fork bottoms / calipers position the calipers (laterally) equal to the axial-mounted S2R1000 calipers.  On the radial front end superbikes (749/999, 848/1098/1198), they switched from 6-bolt rotor mount pattern front wheels (rotors have 10mm offset) to 5-bolt rotor mount pattern (rotors have 15mm offset).   I do not recall offhand what the S4RS wheel setup is, but my guess is it is the latter.  You could put 5mm shims behind the rotor at each bolt and that might solve your problem, while using the original S2R1000 wheel. You may still need to insert proper wheel spacers on the axle, though.

Cool, so new gen monster forks, which also have radial brembos are a consideraion as well, I knew about the 5 bolt vs 6bolt brake rotors but wasn't sure about the offset.  5mm shim should not be a major issue.   

I also figured $400 was about right for the showas,  just need to figure out how much I can get for the brakes and how much I'd have to pay for ohlins forks and the brembo brakes,  haven't seen people parting bikes out as much as I used to. 

[The Don]

I don't know if this helps or hinders you, but I bought a set of Ohlins forks off a GSXR1000 05 model for $900.00 off eBay fully serviced. They can be mounted straight up to the original triple clamps, i don't know about the brakes as i haven't installed them yet. I started out reading the post below. Good luck
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=958.0

[Düb Lüv]

2006-2007 r6 forks are easier to fit than gsxr,

[vw151]

Excellent info about the r6 and GSXR forks.   

[junior varsity]

Most of the Japanese litre bikes will have 50/54 bore sizes (which is good fer you).   There are posts about what you need to do about the fork bottoms - axle (diameter, length, wheel spacers) etc.  You can't just "bolt the whole bottom" directly up because the Monster (and all Ducati... well except for the RS/Corse SBK's and the Panigale) have 205mm fork spacing.  The Japanese bikes will have 205, 210, 212, or 215, depending on year/make/model.

Best o' luck to you.   



If it was me, I'd grab a set of properly bored triples for Ducati SBK forks from IMA or SM, and the forks (obviously).  I like the idea that there is less hassle with this setup (though possibly more expense).  For your bike, you'd want to acquire the Showa 748, 996, 998 or first year/model 749/999 forks so that your calipers bolt directly up (and you wouldn't have to purchase calipers too).   If you can swing it, get ones with Titanium-Nitride (TiN or TiNi or Ti-Nitride) sliders, as they are superior to the standard chromed sliders. (You can tell they are TiN-coated sliders because they'll be gold colored instead of chrome). 

The advantage to this setup is straightforward wheel/axle/rotor/caliper/spacer installation.  Everything you will need will be standard, off-the-shelf parts - no custom parts required.  This means if you lose the axle spacer, you can order another one from the dealer (or get a billet one from Motowheels, or a used one from GothamCycles).   Similarly, any internal fork-upgrades available for those superbike forks will be useful for your setup.  That way you could later respring or revalve your forks with the standard kits that your dealer would be familiar with (and you'll avoid trying to explain to your dealer how your S2R1000 needs resprung/revalved but you will need to find out which springs are proper for #### year model japanese bike, and similarly the seals wouldn't be in stock, etc etc).

That said, if you are in a fairly urban area with numerous bike shops around, that's no big deal - you'll be able to source the parts nearby.  Your Duc dealership may also even service other brands, such as the Japanese brands, which would make this swap no less convenient than with Duc SBK forks.   



Since your post seems to state a goal of upgrading (rather than repairing post crash), here's some additional thoughts (I think there's very few ways to better spend money on your motorcycle than suspension and wheels): 

Maybe don't worry about wheel compatibility - if you are spending on upgrading your front end, you'll thank yourself later for spending the slight additional dollars in upgrading the wheel.  If you replace your existing wheel with a lightweight front, you can choose the one with correct rotor bolt-pattern.   For your setup, you'd simply looking to acquire a set of lightweight wheels from the 848 or Hypermotard (and you may be able to get the S-model / DP catalog upgrade Marchesini forged aluminum for a pretty fair price.  There's also the deals with Motowheels on OZ, which are really sharp wheels - ask Düb Lüv - when upgrading one of my bikes, I think they will be the next set I buy)

That's all I got for now.

[vw151]

Maybe I should have stated originally.  I already have fully adjustable Showas with TiN coated Sliders and I also have a forged marchesini wheel that I'd like to keep on the bike.   I have just always wanted the S4Rs front end with the ohlins forks and the radial brakes.   

I'm just weighing all my options here and there is a lot of good information.   I've also considered going the superbike fork route as I could get ohlins with radial brembos that way too. 

[junior varsity]

wanting to keep those forged wheels makes sense. lots of sense. 


you could always revalve or cartridge your showas and equip the 4 pad calipers - might be cheaper in the end and you'll have "almost the same" brakes and arguably better forks.

[vw151]

wanting to keep those forged wheels makes sense. lots of sense.  


you could always revalve or cartridge your showas and equip the 4 pad calipers - might be cheaper in the end and you'll have "almost the same" brakes and arguably better forks.

I have 4 piston calipers already.  You are probably right, it's going to be a negligible increase.  The bike already lifts the rear wheel if you brake hard enough.  I suppose maybe it's just more of a vanity thing.  a couple of years ago I'd see parted out S4Rses pretty often.  Now, not so much.  

It's just that I have a 1080 high comp kit, velocity stacks, Ohlins rear shock, forged wheels, tons of billet,  and about every other upgrade you can think of and I just really always wanted those Ohlins forks and radial brakes.  I have ridden the S4Rs and I think it's a great bike but always felt the 2V motor suited the type of bike it is better, which is why it is sad there was never an S2RS.  I love the low end power I get out of my 2V.  

here is the bike as it currently sits.  



I'd also like to paint the motor and swing arm and passenger pegs. black

[vw151]

BTW, I did find these,  looks like the radial brakes would bolt up which I can find on fleabay for about $500, I'm just thinking if I could find a salvage 1100S or S4RS front end for sale it'd be about 1/2 the price. 

http://indysuperbike.com/Ohlins_Road_and_Track_Forks_Ducati_S2R-117179.html

[junior varsity]

not 4-piston, i am talking about the 4-pad calipers.  (4-piston, 4-pad).   They were on the superbikes just prior to going to radials.

They look a lot alike, except for the absence of the two pins that are used on the 4-piston, 2-pad calipers.

4-piston, 4-pad:


4-piston, 2-pad:


Your bike has the 4-piston, 2-pad calipers as shown in the second picture (disregard color differences).