Is using a chain clip that much worse than Riveting?

[The ModFather]

Got a new chain but no riveting tool. Have clip and rivet links so I can do either. Debating whether to use the clip, take the chain to a bike shop and pay them to rivet it or buy the tool which is the priciest option.

[Dirty Duc]

I've run a clip for the last 17-18k miles with no problems.

I'm sure some will tell you that a clip-type will surely end in a horrible, fiery death.  

I also run the cheapest o-ring chain I can find in 525, because I really don't see the point in paying $20 a link for a splashy color.  The cheap ones last as long as the snazzy gold one the dealer put on the first time.

[The Bacon Junkie]

It depends on what bike you have, how much power it's putting out, etc...

When I had my little M750, I used a clip style link, but with the 999, I wouldn't dream of it!

The Monster put out around 60ish hp, but the Trip-9 puts out more than double that!

The rivet master is just stronger.  I bought the chain riveting tool.  It'll pay for itself. 


If you decide to go the clip route, make sure the open end of the clip is facing AWAY from the direction of pull!!!  Bad things can happen if it's installed the wrong way. 




 

[memper]

IMO tools are probably one of the best investments one can make. $45 plus you gain the satisfaction of having done the job yourself.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

a clip style master link threw the chain off my buddies XS650 as I was riding it from portland to missoula I was cruising at 60 on a bike that maybe makes 25hp on a good day, new-ish chain with about 300 miles on it..

Ive heard many similar stories, so many that the shop I work at refuses to use clip style master links. I have never heard any similar stories about properly installed rivet links.

a clip style may not be the end of the world, but a rivet link is piece of mind. whatever it costs to do it the right way will be a small fraction of what you would pay were the clip to come off, throw the chain and have it destroy your cases or lock up the rear wheel and throw you off, and that only needs to happen once.

[Bill in OKC]

If you decide to go the clip route, make sure the open end of the clip is facing AWAY from the direction of pull!!!  Bad things can happen if it's installed the wrong way.  

I don't know exactly when rivet links became popular but clips were standard for years and years.  My '75 GT550 uses a non o-ring and clip master chain as stock.  That bike is good for maybe a little over 100mph.  I would probably draw the line at 100mph and go with a rivet above that.  I suspect most clip failures are when the clip is installed facing the wrong way or otherwise not seated correctly.

[ungeheuer]

I suspect most clip failures are when the clip is installed facing the wrong way or otherwise not seated correctly.

I agree.  I rode bikes for years using nothing but the clip-style link.... never once had any problems as a result.  I use rivet links now coz I can...  but I dont see the descent of impending doom if you used a correctly fitted clip-link.

All that said, my advice is:  Buy the tool  

[Desert Dust]

+ 1 on the direction of the clip; clips must be installed with the closed end of the clip facing in the direction the chain travels.

That being said, I rode dirt bikes for years in the 60s, 70s, and 80s and I do not remember any other device other than clips being used to connect the chain. I have, however, been the victim of a clip that dislodged. I prefer the rivet rather than being stuck out in the boondocks with a punctured case.   

[Speeddog]

As others have said, back in the day, clips were all there was, and they worked fine, as long as you *didn't* ravage the clip or install it backwards.

I've had two bikes with recent clip-style master links come in the shop with no clips.
Failure was averted due to the design of recent clip-style masters requiring a healthy push to install the sideplate.

Back in the day, the sideplate slipped on, no push required.
Not the case these days.

[corey]

i've heard of screw-type master links. what's the deal w/ those?

[Bill in OKC]

I've had two bikes with recent clip-style master links come in the shop with no clips.
Failure was averted due to the design of recent clip-style masters requiring a healthy push to install the sideplate.

Back in the day, the sideplate slipped on, no push required.
Not the case these days.

I saw a thread pic recently where a rivet master had the side plate pressed on but the end of the rivet had not been flared.  The bike had been ridden a while like that.  Lucky that the side plate stayed on but it does take a bit of a press to get them on.

[zooom]

the other suggestion when using a clip that I learned many moons ago and use when using a clip chain link is to put a dab of RTV on the clip as a small dab of insurance to keep from losing the clip...

[manwithgun]

the other suggestion when using a clip that I learned many moons ago and use when using a clip chain link is to put a dab of RTV on the clip as a small dab of insurance to keep from losing the clip...

   I do this as well.  For those that don't know, it's silicone rubber (room temp vulcanizing) in a tube.  Like Frank's Red Hot Sauce, you can put that sh!t on everything (that may be susceptible to vibration and dislodging where locktite is not practical).  Oil drain plug is another place where I ALWAYS add a smear of RTV and many tracks require this if you're not already safety wired.

   As far as the screw type master, i've got one in the tool kit but have never used it.  It's my understanding that by torquing down the 8mm nut to the appropriate depth, the pin is flared and the remaining stud can be snapped off once the nut is relieved...  It is not a "screw in / screw out" removable link as the name might suggest.

pic :  http://www.ekchain.jp/feature/index.html
   

[Howie]

This will work better than RTV:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/File:Masterlinksafetywirednx2.jpg

[Spck31]

 

This will work better than RTV:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/File:Masterlinksafetywirednx2.jpg