2000 M900ie Starter Solenoid or Starter Relay Test

[Blue]

I was able to get the bike to start; the issue is in the loom.  See last post.

Hello, it appears as though I need a new starter relay or solenoid for my Monster, but I was hoping to confirm this through additional tests.  I have been reading other posts regarding this issue and it seems with the change to fuel injection the direct link between the starter button and the solenoid has been removed.  My Monster is the first year of fuel injection for the 900.

So, what happens?  I turn the key, the fuel pump primes, all lights are on and press the starter button and nothing happens.  No click, no turn over, the headlight does not go out like it should.  Should it, I thought it did?
When using a screwdriver to jump the two larger terminals on the solenoid, the starter motor turns over.  
Wiggling the plastic connector where the starter button activates the solenoid (or relay) does nothing.  I have had this come out before and I feel confident that last night's attempts rules out a bad connection here.  

So, I would like to know if the problem is the starter solenoid or the button.
I did stick my multimeter into the end of the white connect for the button and measure 2.6 ohms of resistance.  I have no idea if this good or not.  

Help would be appreciated so I can buy a replacement part with confidence.  Thanks.

Below is a wiring diagram for the Monster.

1. R.H. Switch
2. Key Switch
3. Ignition Relay
4. Fuse Box
5. Flasher
6. Starter Motor
7. Starter Solenoid
8. Battery

[Howie]

To test the solenoid, battery positive to one small terminal, battery negative to the other small terminal.  Place an ohmmeter across the two big terminals.  You should get continuity.   As far as the switch goes on your bike, the red/blue wire should supply battery voltage to the solenoid from the switch, orange/blue is ground.  Ground is completed through the computer when it gets the OK from the sidestand switch.

[JoeP]

I had the same problem with my bike. Here's what I did: 1) checked the battery (good), 2) Tested the starter switch by closing it and checking for 12 V at the plastic connector that plugs into the solenoid (good). My sidestand sensor is disabled so I didn't have to worry about that. 3) Checked the starter motor by jumping the big terminals on the solenoid like you did (also good). I replaced the solenoid and everything is working fine.

[Blue]

I will pull the solenoid and check for continuity as Howie described.

I will also check the starter switch for 12V as JoeP described.

These two tests should narrow it down to what part has failed. 

I should have also mentioned that the sidestand and clutch safety switches have been disabled.  I did check them again to make sure the bypass is still functioning.
Does anyone know or remember if the headlight dims when starter a 2000 M900ie? 
Thanks again for the help. 

[Ddan]

When the starter cranks the headlight will dim

[Blue]

I will also check the starter switch for 12V as JoeP described.  

I had a few minutes and pulled my starter switch connection.  Using my multimeter, I was unable to get 12V no matter how it was connected.  Any additional ways to test the switch?

My plan is to still pull the solenoid to check for continuity unless folks think this is a waste of time.

Thanks for the help.

[Blue]

To test the solenoid, battery positive to one small terminal, battery negative to the other small terminal.  Place an ohmmeter across the two big terminals.  You should get continuity.   As far as the switch goes on your bike, the red/blue wire should supply battery voltage to the solenoid from the switch, orange/blue is ground.  Ground is completed through the computer when it gets the OK from the sidestand switch.

I pulled the solenoid and hooked up the small terminal to the positive and the other to the negative.  A good solid click!  I did not get 12V across the large lugs, but the Ohm meter read a tick above 0 Ohms.  So, it appears the solenoid is okay. 

What next?  The switch...

[JoeP]

I had a few minutes and pulled my starter switch connection.  Using my multimeter, I was unable to get 12V no matter how it was connected.  Any additional ways to test the switch?

My plan is to still pull the solenoid to check for continuity unless folks think this is a waste of time.

Thanks for the help.

So you pulled the plastic plug from the solenoid, hooked up the voltmeter to the plug, checked that the key and kill switch were in the "run" position, hit the starter button, and got no signal from the voltmeter? Sounds like either a bad switch or maybe disconnected wiring from the switch to the solenoid.

[Blue]

So you pulled the plastic plug from the solenoid, hooked up the voltmeter to the plug, checked that the key and kill switch were in the "run" position, hit the starter button, and got no signal from the voltmeter?

Correct!

Sounds like either a bad switch or maybe disconnected wiring from the switch to the solenoid.

This seems reasonable.  Now to test it.  I haven't looked at the loom to see the connections as to how it gets from the button to the starter, but need to.  Anyone know of any easy tests?  Thanks for the help.

[Blue]

Well, I was inspecting the wiring from the switch to the ECU and I was able to get the bike to start.  When I wiggled the wiring loom that runs from the steering stem passed the throttle bodies, next to the air box and along the trellis frame on the right side of the bike.  Is there any easy way of inspecting this wiring without cutting the sheathing?  Any idea of what could be happening in that stretch of the loom that would cause this issue?
Thanks again for the help.

[JoeP]

Well, I was inspecting the wiring from the switch to the ECU and I was able to get the bike to start.  When I wiggled the wiring loom that runs from the steering stem passed the throttle bodies, next to the air box and along the trellis frame on the right side of the bike.  Is there any easy way of inspecting this wiring without cutting the sheathing?  Any idea of what could be happening in that stretch of the loom that would cause this issue?
Thanks again for the help.

Look at the connections at the end of the wiring loom. Could be a loose connection. Also look along the loom for those cheesy shrink-wrapped connectors. They always seem to fail. When that happens I just remove the connector and solder the wires together.

[Blue]

To bring closure to this thread, last night I found the problem.
The wire from the start switch was severed inside of the loom, right before the wiring joins the main loom (on its way to the starter relay) behind the headlight.
The troubling part was that the casing around the wiring had been cut previously and wrapped with electrical tape.  The red/blue had been cut and repaired previously (but broke again).  The brown was partially severed as well but not repaired.  It looks like the previous owner, who originally bought the bike, repaired or had it repaired but did not elect to disconnect any of the wiring to give them more room to make the repair.
Well, the good news is that I didn't have to buy a new battery, solenoid or switch.  The bad news is that this has been going on for over a month now so I haven't ridden it as much.
All is well now and with the headlight out, I am looking into lower the headlight and gauges.  Something I had meaning to do for quite some time.