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Author Topic: Anti-Seize vs. Loctite  (Read 1384 times)
The ModFather
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« on: July 21, 2012, 08:07:20 AM »

This is for the exhaust header flange nuts. They are already a bit corroded but still thread. Spec's say to use Lock 1 which I believe is Loctite - Blue. But I've seen threads here that recommend anti-seize and given the corroded nature I'm wondering which way to go here.
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Dellikose
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« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2012, 08:31:18 AM »

I went on the other threads recommendation and applied antisieze.

I had to finally resort to a torch to remove one of the stud nuts last year. I also used stainless nuts when reinstalling, which I got from Lowe's.
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The ModFather
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« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2012, 08:58:44 AM »

yeah I should probably use new nuts as both the nuts and mounted bolts are suffering from early stage of corrosion
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dlearl476
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2012, 09:52:46 AM »

I'd go with anti-seize. Heat is pretty much the prescribed method for removing a lock-tited nut, so where does that leave you.

FWIW you can buy a box of proper copper locking exhaust washers from an Au-Ve-Co or WURTH distributor for about $15. Use once (w/anti-seize) and toss. Nothing worse than having the top nut on your vertical cylinder's exhaust flange loosen up in the middle of nowhere. DAMHIK. :bang
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scduc
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« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2012, 03:35:28 PM »

Your going to want to go with the anti-seize. The heat from the header will cook the loctite and the anti-seize will make sure things don't freeze up.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2012, 07:38:26 PM by scduc » Logged

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brad black
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2012, 05:25:06 PM »

the loctite brand silver anti seize works well in general, but there is a nickel based type for higher temp things.
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