Yet another SBK fork mod. (Also my build and other random stuff thread)

[freeclimbmtb]

My father and I rescued a full height Delta drill press from my grandfathers shop on Monday, pretty neat, has a brass U.S. Army tag on the base.

But that means I get my fathers bench top Delta drill press!  (both drills are probably 1950s early 1940s vintage if I had to guess.  Ill look into the serial number on mine later...)



Should make drilling the holes in the clip-on bars a little easier!  

(Grabbed the x-y traverse vise too...before anyone says it...no I am not going to do any milling with my drill press...and If I am...it will be aluminum with a tiny bite and low feed rate... )

The bench top south bend lathe is the next tool to be rescued from the shop.  

[TealCandy]

My father and I rescued a full height Delta drill press from my grandfathers shop on Monday, pretty neat, has a brass U.S. Army tag on the base.

But that means I get my fathers bench top Delta drill press!  (both drills are probably 1950s early 1940s vintage if I had to guess.  Ill look into the serial number on mine later...)



Should make drilling the holes in the clip-on bars a little easier!  

(Grabbed the x-y traverse vise too...before anyone says it...no I am not going to do any milling with my drill press...and If I am...it will be aluminum with a tiny bite and low feed rate... )

The bench top south bend lathe is the next tool to be rescued from the shop.  

I'd love one of these! looks great 

[freeclimbmtb]

I'd love one of these! looks great 

I got used to having it at my disposal growing up.  Its a real PITA drilling a hole into a tube without one! 


Which reminds me of a story I heard about a guy my grandfathers age...
So my father tells the story:  This guy they called "bullshit bouley" had an old out-of-round drill bit chucked up in his drill press spinning super slow, every time it came around hed smack it with a hammer trying to get it back into round...
Dont know how much truth there is to the story, but it sure is funny as hell watching my father and grandfather cracking up talking about it. 

I digress. 

[TealCandy]

I got used to having it at my disposal growing up.  Its a real PITA drilling a hole into a tube without one!  


Which reminds me of a story I heard about a guy my grandfathers age...
So my father tells the story:  This guy they called "bullshit bouley" had an old out-of-round drill bit chucked up in his drill press spinning super slow, every time it came around hed smack it with a hammer trying to get it back into round...
Dont know how much truth there is to the story, but it sure is funny as hell watching my father and grandfather cracking up talking about it.  

I digress.  

Lucky, the older ones are definitely built to last. I'm still using tools that my grandfather bought from his first 3 weeks of apprentice wages back in the late 30's, I've always had a thing for for them.. and won't buy a replacement unless absolutely necessary lol. Did bullshit bouley ever 'get around' to straightening up his bit? Haha

[freeclimbmtb]

Did bullshit bouley ever 'get around' to straightening up his bit? Haha

"true" story. 


Here are a few of the lathe... (should have it in a few weeks...hopefully before the barn collapses.)

[freeclimbmtb]

Got the serial numbers off of both drill presses.
My bench top is 7-4270
My fathers floor model is 3-2878

According to the information below, that puts both of them pre 1941.  Im thinking probably 1938-1939 era.

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Default.aspx?Page=DeltaSerialNumbers&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1


Can't wait to find the tag on the Southbend...

[freeclimbmtb]

MONSTER UPDATE TIME!! 

(sorry in advance for the mixed measuring system, all the measurements are apples to apples, so itll be OK)


Alrighty first up, the bike at the start of the project.  (In case anyone is wondering, thats a BikeLift brand front end lift.)


And since the whole front end is coming off the bike, I needed another way of supporting the front end, and I really dont like the tow strap from the ceiling idea, so I decided to go with jack stands under the ever so conveniently located frame sliders.


First bolts to turn are the 4 caliper bolts, as well as the axle nut.


Now, if you havent done this, you need to get some wiggle room between the pads and the rotor before you can get the calipers out, the first one is easy, you can carefully pry back and forth until youve got the pistons backed up in their bores.  The second one is a little tricker, you'll squeeze all the fluid from the second side into the first, then you run the risk of popping a piston out of the caliper.


You cant really tell, but that zip tie is holding a spare brake pad in the rotor gap.  Works well to keep the pistons where they should be during removal, and in case your helper decides to give the brakes a squeeze.  I just used some parachute cord to hang the calipers from the frame.


Wheel removed, calipers tied back.


More of the same.  (can you tell which cement block I pulled out of the snow bank?)


Front wheel removed.  (ABS disk facing out)


Front axle, spacer, and nut. (I wiped them down before snapping the picture.


OK, Measuring time!

First, the right side shoulder of the MONSTER axle.  59mm


Next the monster axle spacer.  21mm


Axle shoulder diameter.  30mm


Axle small diameter.  25mm


Axle spacer diameter.  35mm


Here comes the dimensional mess part...

Axle total legnth.  10 1/4 INCHES (!?!)  (yeah I know...but like I said, apples to apples...this is for comparison to the other thing which is ALSO measured in inches.  Stupid inches.)


Axle legnth again.


NOW.  1198 axle.  Overall legnth, ~9 7/8 inches


SBK shoulder legnth.  58mm 


SBK shoulder diameter. 35mm


SBK axle diameter. 25mm


SBK spacer legnth. 21mm


SBK spacer diameter. 35mm


The two axles side by each.


And again.


ABS side rotor removed. (and filthy.)


Rotor inner diameter. 72mm


Rotor bolt clearance hole diameter.  call it 9mm (clearance remember)


distance from the hub hole to the bolt hole. 5mm
Kinda random right? Heres why:
(Rotor ID)/2 + (bolt hole diameter)/2 + distance between, all multiplied by 2 gives me my bolt circle at 91mm (or an easier way, big hole diameter + half the small hole diameter + distance between.) So, now I can get rotor spacers cut.


OF COURSE on bolt 9 out of 10.  Goddamn torx.


Luckily I have a decent assortment of damaged fastener removal tools.


The one that worked here is from craftsman.  6 flutes are cut with a left hand super tall helix, so you bash this thing onto the head of the bolt, then back it out with a ratchet, and the flutes cut into the bolt head and tighten as you back it out...as long as you dont shave the edges off the bolt in the process.  Luckily it worked perfectly this time.  Ill be using all new hardware for the rotors anyway, so no big loss here.


Front wheel looks kinda strange all by its lonesome.  (also FILTHY)


So, the Marzocchis on the front of the M796 measure 28" overall.


About 18.5"  to the dust boot.


And about 11" to the bottom of the lower triple clamp.


For the shitty pic of the evening, thats supposed to show 2.5" to the bottom of the woodcraft clip-on clamp.


Fender hardware.  Nylon washers go between the bolt and the fender, steel washers go between the fender and the fork slider on the right fork tube only.  The ABS bracket is on the left instead of washers.


Headlight assy removed.  While its off I pulled it appart and sent the aluminum frame out to powdercoat.


Woodcraft clipons removed.  I am not SUPER impressed with the quality of the hardware that came on these, the socket heads are already showing signs of strippage.


More of the same.


Next to come off are the steering stop screws.  No point in measuring here, just careful reinstallation and checking. And double checking.


Just some parts and tools all over the bench.  And the old forks.


In the hopes to stop brake fluid from leaking all over everywhere, I made some hangers from masons string.  (tied them to the garage door hanger...had a panic attack when my brother opened the door...then i realized the door stopped a foot before them.)


Now.  This handy little tool (obviously not the official Ducati one) is to pull the steering head nut.


This shipped to me courtacy of Ducati Tool Rental Thanks Evan!!


Really not much to it.  I expected more.


Lower triple comming off, grease looks good, and there is a ton of it.


And here she sits waiting on parts!


Finally, took a ride over to Great Bay Motorcycles to check in with Mike Archambault on my forks.  He pulled them appart, checked them all out, and called me with recommendations.  We decided to swap out the 10n/mm springs with 8's, and in order to fight some of the braking dive that results from less spring tension, pulled two washers form the valving stack.  (the two next to the spring at the bottom of the picture.)  Other than that he said they looked just about perfect inside, better than he had hoped when I dropped them off.  They will get new seals and dust boots anyway.  Also, apparently ohins some times gets the blue and red locktite mixed up and when you try and disassemble the fork, you leave the cartridge buried in the fork tube and remove just the top cap.  Fortunately, that wasnt the case here, and all went smooth.

Ohlins eye candy:

[freeclimbmtb]

Alright, when I pulled the forks off I took a little video too.  Heres proof of why I am doing this mod.  And to anyone out there that thinks I'm spending a lot of money for less than 10% gain...well, your entitled to your opinion I suppose, even if your dead wrong.




Thats enough updates for one night.  Off to find a

[rozer]

This is really, really helpful for anyone who's intending to do this mod!
Are you adding this to the Tutorials section when you are done?

It makes me want to upgrade my fork too by the way.
Thank you for me throwing yet another silly amount of money at my bike.  

[freeclimbmtb]

When I'm done and done I may put together a tutorial if theres enough interest.  Ive got another update coming at some point here of the new parts pile that is amassing.   Really just waiting on the triples from IMA at this point.  Forks will be done tuesday/Wednesday.

[Christian]

Great thread! Loving all the photos, details, and measurements. Fun winter project, eh? 

[TealCandy]

When I'm done and done I may put together a tutorial if theres enough interest.  Ive got another update coming at some point here of the new parts pile that is amassing.   Really just waiting on the triples from IMA at this point.  Forks will be done tuesday/Wednesday.

Tutorial would be great I know I'd get use out of it!

[ajw85]

I also love the thread and think a tutorial would be great. Nice work!

[freeclimbmtb]

Alrighty then.  Once I'm all done, wrapped up and have all the kinks worked through, Ill get everything (pictures and such) reorganized and do a "new gen monster SBK front end swap tutorial"

Small update.  Did some construction and insulating work in the garage, Monster is pretty much on hold until parts arrive. (Still waiting to hear back from IMA.)

[freeclimbmtb]

Alright, so another problem I am potentially facing is brake and clutch lines.  Because the lines on the coffin masters mount vertically on the inner ends of the MCs and the lines on the radial masters mound on the bottom of the MCs, I will possibly have the problem of the lines not working due to the angle of the fittings on the MC end of the line.  (both brake and clutch)

I put together a table of the part numbers of a M796ABS and M1100EVO since both have ABS.

             Brake                            Clutch
796ABS   61841062A                        63210541A
1100EVO   61841102A ($205.99)   63210602A ($75.99)
   
Not that I expected the part numbers to match, but it would have been nice for once.     Hopfully I have enough slack in the lines to make them work, but if not, looks like another $300 for lines...or possibly having new fittings put onto my lines.