Accelerator problems

[jamie2548]

Hi all.

I have just got some bar risers for my wifes 620 and for the life of me I cannot(no matter how I route the cable) can stop it from pulling the accelerator when I turn the bars. I cant move the cluster further down the bar because its located on a lug.
SO my question is. Can you get longer cables? Or is there any trick I am unaware of?
I tried to look at my new bike(Robs old one. Hi Rob ) and I cant see anything since the sneaky bugger has hidden all the cables and wiring

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[dragonworld.]

It sounds like the cable is now too short and pulls when the bars are turned! 

You can file the lug off without causing any problems, the cluster shouls still clamp up ok! 

But a longer cable might be the only solution!? 

[svoloch]

longer cable. 

[loony888]

if rob has hidden them he may have routed them differently, i'd be making sure they're routed as per the workshop manual then seeing how much slack you have at full lock. beats coughing up for new cables, there _should_ be enough there to make them work.

[svoloch]

with bar risers, you can run out of length quickly.  I'm not as familiar with the monsters, but I helped a friend put cycle cat risers on his 999, and we definitely had to get a longer cable, there was nowhere near enough play to make it work.

[Betty]

if rob has hidden them he may have routed them differently, i'd be making sure they're routed as per the workshop manual then seeing how much slack you have at full lock. beats coughing up for new cables, there _should_ be enough there to make them work.

Just to clarify ... he doesn't have a problem with the M1000 (Rob's re-routed bike). The problem is with the M620 and new risers.

An option may be to lower the front end but this will impact the handling (perhaps in a good way?) ... and if the bike has a stock linkage at the back you won't be able to compensate with similar changes on the rear. Adjustable links may still be available though.

[loony888]

ahh righto, didn't read it properly. usually the cable routes around the LHS of the headstock in a nice smooth arc, you may get away with changing that to the RHS with the cable routing more upwards but other than that there's not much to change, are longer cables available?? california cycleworks maybe??

[svoloch]

Just find one with the same diameter and a bit more length ( who hasn't had that problem?!? ).  I think we used one from a multi, don't recall exactly.

[jamie2548]

Thanks for all your advice I'm actually going to see if I can get a longer insert and make one up myslef. Seems like the obvious way to do it .

Thanks again for your help

[dragonworld.]

you'll need the correct length outer as well, otherwise you might not be able to take up/adjust any excess freeplay!!

[jamie2548]

The outer fits fine  so all good there dragon  Ill see what i can find at the bike shop tommorrow http://www.firestormmotorcycles.com.au/universal-motorcycle-inner-throttle-cable/   << this is what Im thinking i will do

[Betty]

Umm ... is the 'fast idle' effected in the same way?

[GK]

Have you used all the adjustable/available slack in the cable? I know there's the actual cable length, but there's also a bit of freeplay adjustment.

If you have done this, then I guess you're up for another cable. I would prefer that than suspension fiddling, especially if the Mrs is happy with the current handling.

All the best with it.

GK

[jamie2548]

Thanks Guys. I acatually ended up getting a new cable insert and using a little more length. Worked a treat
I agree GK. The bike actually hasnt been set up for the missus yet but still mucking around with suspension just to get a cable to work it out of my league.

[GK]

Glad you got it sorted.

GK