Guide to changing Front sprocket in Ducati Monster 796 from 15T to 14T

[Raux]

There is not enough slack to remove the chain from the rear sprocket, even after loosening it all the way. After much trial and error, I have arrived at the multi step process listed, and in my opinion, it is the path of least resistance

ok so if you take the chain off the rear sprocket and then the front sprocket it doesn't work?

[catti]

Have read the instructions posted in 2012.  Luckily I have already changed the rearset holder for a rizoma one so it it is not in the way.  Not at all mechanically inclined (OK I'm a girl)  but sprocket needs replacing so going for a 14T one.  I have removed the sprocket cover to clean out gunk and also tightened the chain so I know how that part works, was wondering tho' do you have to remove the clutch slave cylinder and gear part just for access or is there some other reason?

[Andyind]

You need to remove the clutch slave cylinder to be able to remove the chain. otherwise, you cant. Been there, done that!

[RE-Agent]

I'm going to change the front to a 14T because everyone seems to love this mod but I have a question. I read on another post that the tightening torque for the bolts holding in the sprocket retaining plate is an absurdly low 4ft lbs 6nm. Is this correct??? It seems very low for one of the hardest stressed parts of the entire bike.
Thanks!

[stopintime]

I'm going to change the front to a 14T because everyone seems to love this mod but I have a question. I read on another post that the tightening torque for the bolts holding in the sprocket retaining plate is an absurdly low 4ft lbs 6nm. Is this correct??? It seems very low for one of the hardest stressed parts of the entire bike.
Thanks!

That's what the work shop manual says. "LOCK 1" which means normal locktite, I think.

[DarkMonster620]

I'm going to change the front to a 14T because everyone seems to love this mod but I have a question. I read on another post that the tightening torque for the bolts holding in the sprocket retaining plate is an absurdly low 4ft lbs 6nm. Is this correct??? It seems very low for one of the hardest stressed parts of the entire bike.
Thanks!

they get tighter with time . . .but, those values are correct and Blue Loctite if you are using Loctite brand if not, then medium . . .

[Charlie98]

The retainer plate doesn't really see any direct force exerted against it, it just keeps the sprocket on the shaft.  ...but don't forget the Loctite!

[S21FOLGORE]

Do you have the torque wrench that reads in in-lb. ?

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71572.msg1323828#msg1323828

If you don't have one, and you are planning to work on motorcycles and cars, I'd recommend to buy a good one.
(Because you will use it more than you would think.)

Snap On digital torque meter I showed in the linked post above is probably the best torque wrench for the beginners, because

1)You can very easily monitor the tightening torque increase, by digital read out AND LED indicator light bar.

2)Therefore, it will help you to develop the "feel" (of how much torque is being applied.)

3)It will beep AND vibrate when getting close to the set torque value (early warning system), so that you won't turn the wrench too quickly (common mistake) and over tighten the fastner.

4)When doing 1-2-1 sequence (on the front fork pinch bolt, for example), it is very easy to do 2 or 3 steps tightening.
(You don't want to tighten one bolt with 100% of tightening torque and move onto the next one. You do 1-2-1 sequence with 50% of the torque, then, tighten them in 1-2-1 with 75% of the torque, then, with 100% of the torque.)

The only downside is the cost. It's probably (way) more than most people are willing to pay.

If your on tight budget, those beam type are better than cheap clickers.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-1-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000NVCI1U

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2955D-Beam-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00004SQ3B

(Gearwrench 2955D is the same as Park TW-1, just rebranded. They are discontinued as of 2106.)