PRE-mod gauges relocation M620ie 2002

[cmejia1978]

First tutorial I am uploading hope it works or gives ideas to anyone interested in relocating it's gauges.

First of all I am no mech, tech... just a guy with some imagination and apparently a pair of big balls. If anything does not like you PLEASE remember it'sa PRE-MOD not the final one

1. you will need a sandwich box, flat, little one.
2. silicone for ceramic, plastic, etc.
3. a knife and a heat source
4. most important patience and your balls

Step 1: remove gauges from upper tripple
Step 2: dismantle gauges, unscrew all bolt on the back in a counter clock way, keep the screws safe since you are going to use them later
Step 3: with everything removed leave the face protecting the clocks, so far we are going to leave it untouched, just the back it's our target
Step 4: put the digital plate with the face inside the sandwich box and with a permanent marker mark the border of the conector on the digital plate and then close the lid of the sandwich box so it will mark the place where we are going to cut through for the connector to show
Step 5: heat the pointing knife and start to cut through on the back of the lid, you will cut it like butter; heat the knife continuously during the while process, be patient or you will cut more than you need.
Step 6: remember the screws from step 2? bolt the lid to the digital plate with them
Step 7: seal the box with silicone (wait at least 12 hrs for the silicone to dry properly )
Step 8: with 4 plastic straps attach box to frame, plug gauges, clean front U (relocate wires using plastic straps if wanted or needed)
Step 9: go for a ride and enjoy the new front view

Before:


Side view:


Front View:


Dismantled Gauges and sandwich box marked before been cut:


Sandwich box already sealed with silicone:


Bolted and plugged:


another view of bolted-plugged sandwich box:


after pre-mod:


view to a kill:


bird eye view:


front view:


down-up view:


side view:


For now the next step would be to get or build a quality enclosure for the digital plate of the gauges, get rid of the front face protecting the clock, eliminating the horn holder ( i have termis so everyone hears me coming  ) so that I could lower more the current or new enclosure because right now when I turn too much the enclosure moves with the steering  nothing serious that I could guarantee you. Well hope you enjoyed the tutorial. 

[cmejia1978]

Ok, doing some research  I found out that the only materials which could hold the digital gauges plate would be: carbon, plastic or ceramic due to the electrical current flowing to and out the circuit. With that in mind I am looking forward to build a little enclosure with plastic and then I am going to coat it either with paint or import one of those carbon fiber sheets to wrap it. In order to do this I have to get rid of the needles from the clocks. will try this during the weekend. 

[Delray]

You are a brave soul! Nice work. Curious to see what you end up with as an enclosure...may do the same. Thanks.

[cmejia1978]

ok, today is holiday here and I took the time to slim down the sandwich box and dismantle further the gauges to it's bare-bone, so far so good, this is the advance. now I have a "1 dolla" mod-diaper-enclosure, I still have to cut it, but this will do for my carbon provider to manufacture the enclosure.

Step 1: pull gently but firmly the needles of the clocks with your bare hand don't use anything else too much force and you could end up crying with a piece of needle in your tool



Step 2: there should be one set of plastic clamps attaching the gauges plastic face (where the "numbers" are) pull the face and with a fine screw driver push both side, one at the time of course... everything gently, remember! I took the back plastic housing of 1 needle to look if from that point I could approach, no need, just pull as I say!



Step 3: in the end you should have 2 like this plastic clamps



Step 4: after removing the both clamps there are still 2 screws to take off:



Step 5: everything dismantled now!



Step 6: the measurement for the enclosure should be: 16.5 cm x 9.5cm by 2.3 cm the extra .5, .5 and .3 is to let a little "play" between the surfaces and the enclosure, this if you want to leave just the plate inside the enclosure. Thinking about the safety and movement of the plate I decided to play safe and leave the white plastic base and the digital plate attached so I could bolted to the enclosure if needed, just cut both pins, the one's that you use to look for the watch, temp, trip etc etc... I cut them both with a knife and fire...





ok, next step is to, again mark down the plug with permanent marker, cut it with knife and fire; while trying to close the lid of the "diaper housing" it seems that I'll be needing a taler box... it does not close with the white housing attached to the digital plate but it's safer than without it, of course you could come up with the idea to put some rubber cushions between the plate and the diaper housing and attach everything with plastic plugs like the one's used in cars to attach floor surfaces etc... ( not a bad idea at all, I might try that one too, maybe I could still use my diaper housing like planned !)

Will continue the tutorial tomorrow with the final approach to the diaper or not housing... 

 

[cmejia1978]

Took the diaper-box way, it is slim, will pass unnoticed and the case is quite firm, already tried to start the bike and immobilizer as well as digital plate of gauges is 100% good. Ok, next steps:

1. Seal box with a plastic-rubber tape, don't know how to say it but it is a ball of black kind of tape which is used to insulate, hold and proof cables, you will find it under the IT section of your Home Depot Store for sure or ask a techie whom will tell you: oooh that!

2. Painted black so it would camouflage with the airbox if you still have it, if not the better put it BEHIND the transversal front frame bar guarding the airbox, right in front of your conical air filters, this will help your torque too, don-t ask me why a mech good friend of mine told me so.

3. With plastic straps fix it to the transversal frame and enjoy a ride!

I'll still do the carbon enclosure but for now I will enjoy the US$ 1.50 diaper-box mod!  will take some pics and upload them during the weekend hope you enjoy any questions please feel free to ask! Oh yes the huggies travel pack is NOT a good option, too soft, it has to be a hard travel pack

[cmejia1978]

ok, final step, show-off  these are the pictures of the mod with the diaper-box, painted black and put it in front of the air-box, if you have no air box, better! You will improve your torque and will be more protected. As you can see, from the side is invisible, and a front view does now show it either. Have fun with it, be ready for next mod: wet to dry clutch mod under US$. 1,100.00, I am planning on selling DIY kits if at least I could find 12 interested. Also If you do not dare to open your gauges I could put it all together inside the diaper box and send it back, painted already with instructions and plastic wraps ( a little kit  ) for a fraction of the cost performed by your local dealer.  for the dare-devils I am all eyes with questions 

[Delray]

Nice! Looking more brutish without that cluster. Great write-up and photos. Thanks for doing that. Not that I plan to sell my bike (ride it to its grave as mine is pretty old already)...but I wondered if not having the mileage readout would bring issues trying to re-sell and register?

[cmejia1978]

first of all thanks for the compliment, 2nd point: if your gauge cluster is digital, as long as you keep the little Quartz panels that show the info on the digital plate there would be no problem to show the new owner your milage, but if you have an analog reader, man, no can do; you could, if you have no air-box, but the whole gauge cluster in front of the air-filters, but without tearing it appart ... or maybe if you could post me a pic with the gauges and bike I could think a better way to help you 

[cmejia1978]

UPDATE: now that I am doing a whole electrical tear down I started to think about all the sensors connected to the gauges and realized I don't need them, so the cleaner the bike the better, another benefit of relocating the gauges without have an aftermarket option, if you are planning on relocating and using aftermarket I encourage to use same sensors...