Monster 696/659 Clip ons NO RISE

[TealCandy]

not off the ground, but you can eliminate some of the flex by putting the bike on a rear stand and a lift under the motor if you don't have an under the triple front lift.
but i've done it a couple of time with the bike just on a rear stand.
the bottom triple keeps the forks aligned and as long as you aren't sitting on the bike they will hold the forks fine.

you may need a rubber mallet to convince the top triple off, but no damage will occur.

dont forgot the bolt on the center of the top triple. I loosen that one first as you have to turn the bars to get to it.

the headlight is just the two lower nuts on the lower triple and then you lift it off the top triple rubber mounts. the speedymoto probably needs those parts, so i would mount them on it before installing it on the bike. I hate working upside down.

for the controls you'll need to decide to drill the bars or file off the control nubs. I filed and then use grip tape or electrical tape to stop them from spinning on the bars. it's not perfect but I didn't want to screw up the drilling (and IMO putting holes in bars that are aluminum and have all your forward weight on them is asking for trouble)

when remounting the top triple you may find the fork a bike offcenter, that's ok, just use a little leverage to help them center on the holes and then slide (encourage with mallet) the triple down. (don't forget to open the clamps a bit, test them individually first)

it's pretty straight forward stuff.

don't tighten the clipons/controls until you have the top triple securely mounted and you can sit on the bike again.
it helps to have a friend. you have the bike on the rear stand. you sit on the bike like you are riding and find the most comfortable position for everything. Then your friend tightens them in place. after that turn the bars all the way left and right and adjust your steering stops on the lower triple.

You're brilliant, thanks for that I really do appreciate it.. I think I will go with what you did and file down the control nubs,  it seems easier to get right, and I will probably fiddle around with the sweep a bit. Doesn't seem like such a daunting task now, cheers.

[ungeheuer]

......dont forgot the bolt on the center of the top triple. I loosen that one first as you have to turn the bars to get to it.....

But.... when you've turned the bars to access the centre bolt.... once you begin backing out that bolt, do so completely and do not turn the steering until you have that bolt out and in your hand.

....for the controls you'll need to decide to drill the bars or file off the control nubs. I filed and then use grip tape or electrical tape to stop them from spinning on the bars. it's not perfect but I didn't want to screw up the drilling (and IMO putting holes in bars that are aluminum and have all your forward weight on them is asking for trouble)

In the past - also for fear of stuffing up with the drill - I've gone with the file-off-the-nubs method too, but I didnt find it entirely satisfactory.  So I prefer the result you get from leaving the nubs in place and drilling the bars (aluminium or not) - measure 1500 times and drill only once (well twice actually).  You can mark the nubs with white-out or white texta to get a clue if your measured drill target is in the right spot.

[TealCandy]

But.... when you've turned the bars to access the centre bolt.... once you begin backing out that bolt, do so completely and do not turn the steering until you have that bolt out and in your hand.

Note taken, thanks very much you seem to really know everything about this

[Raux]

But.... when you've turned the bars to access the centre bolt.... once you begin backing out that bolt, do so completely and do not turn the steering until you have that bolt out and in your hand.
In the past - also for fear of stuffing up with the drill - I've gone with the file-off-the-nubs method too, but I didnt find it entirely satisfactory.  So I prefer the result you get from leaving the nubs in place and drilling the bars (aluminium or not) - measure 1500 times and drill only once (well twice actually).  You can mark the nubs with white-out or white texta to get a clue if your measured drill target is in the right spot.

that bolt is a pregnant dog if your steering stops are set too short, so be sure to insert it BEFORE setting the clipons.
I also find a wooden wedge helps loosen up the clamps during removal.

and good point about the nubs. I do find I have to readjust occasionally.

[ungeheuer]

Note taken, thanks very much you seem to really know everything about this

Compared to those around here who know MUCH, I know 2/3s of sweet FA  

I've made mistakes in that past that we both can learn from is all .

[Raux]

Compared to those around here who know MUCH, I know 2/3s of sweet FA  

I've made mistakes in that past that we both can learn from is all .

and half those mistakes we've learned from each other

[ungeheuer]

and half those mistakes we've learned from each other

[TealCandy]

Thanks guys, Hopefully I won't make any myself

[TealCandy]

Im about to go and grab a new set of tools, just a torque wrench and some hex sockets.. I'm thinking of a 3/8" drive 19-110nm wrench, what are all of the sizes and torque settings needed for the clip on install? Are they higher than this? I have absolutely no clue on the sizes either. I'm gonna change the oil right after the install too and the wrench im thinking will do that fine.. although those sizes probably wont be hard to find would you be able to state these? Sorry if my stupidity offends anyone.. lol.

Thanks in advance.

[freeclimbmtb]

I use the "tighten until stripped, back off one quarter turn" mentality far more often than I should.  The 3/8" drive should be fine for MOST stuff on your duc, I think the single sided swingarm bikes have a higher torque requirement than that thing will put out for the big hub nuts.  (not something you have to worry about obviously)  I have the same wrench your describing (click type) and its served me well until I tried to use it on the lug bolts on my car and it had too low a range.  (Heres a finer note about the range of the wrench...you should only be using your wrench in the middle of the wrenches range.  So if you need to torque something to 80lbft, you should be using a wrench with a working range of say 50-150lbft.  This is the standard we are held to at my work, but obviously in the home garage we dont have access to 40 different range wrenches so we can have the perfect fit..)
Looking back I think I would have bought the 1/2" drive model.  Just my $0.02

Here are the things I really worry about with torque specs:
-Anything with a bearing load. (front wheel, the big center nut on the triple...which you wont have to touch on your swap)
-Anything requring an evenly and precisely destributed load. (clutch pressure plate, brake caliper, brake rotor, etc)
-Anything with a gasket sealing surface. (engine covers etc)
-Anything that common sense says "this is probably life support related"


...other than that I seldom take the torque wrench out of the case...
The right answer is, torque everythign to the factory spec...but I just feel thats a little overkill in many situations.  (body panels, mirrors, even my clipons get blue thread locker and tightened by feel)

Its certainly a good tool to own, and by no means a bad way to spend the money!


(There you go, that should deflect any of the offense from your question to my answer!  And thats not stupidity! )

[Raux]

I'll see if I can cut and paste the tq numbers for the triples later.

[TealCandy]

I use the "tighten until stripped, back off one quarter turn" mentality far more often than I should.  The 3/8" drive should be fine for MOST stuff on your duc, I think the single sided swingarm bikes have a higher torque requirement than that thing will put out for the big hub nuts.  (not something you have to worry about obviously)  I have the same wrench your describing (click type) and its served me well until I tried to use it on the lug bolts on my car and it had too low a range.  (Heres a finer note about the range of the wrench...you should only be using your wrench in the middle of the wrenches range.  So if you need to torque something to 80lbft, you should be using a wrench with a working range of say 50-150lbft.  This is the standard we are held to at my work, but obviously in the home garage we dont have access to 40 different range wrenches so we can have the perfect fit..)
Looking back I think I would have bought the 1/2" drive model.  Just my $0.02

Here are the things I really worry about with torque specs:
-Anything with a bearing load. (front wheel, the big center nut on the triple...which you wont have to touch on your swap)
-Anything requring an evenly and precisely destributed load. (clutch pressure plate, brake caliper, brake rotor, etc)
-Anything with a gasket sealing surface. (engine covers etc)
-Anything that common sense says "this is probably life support related"


...other than that I seldom take the torque wrench out of the case...
The right answer is, torque everythign to the factory spec...but I just feel thats a little overkill in many situations.  (body panels, mirrors, even my clipons get blue thread locker and tightened by feel)

Its certainly a good tool to own, and by no means a bad way to spend the money!


(There you go, that should deflect any of the offense from your question to my answer!  And thats not stupidity! )

Thanks for the time took in explaining this, I got the 3/8 today with many hex bits so I'm sorted toolwise for the clip on conversion.. But later found out the 14mm hex bit for the oil change comes only in the 1/2 drive model so I'm going to grab one of them too and order a 14mm bit for it. They aren't the most pricey ones so I'm hoping they're still accurate enough (about$100aud) Just waiting on the parts to be delivered now and I can get started

I'll see if I can cut and paste the tq numbers for the triples later.

Thank you, that would be very helpful.

[freeclimbmtb]

You have a few options here as well.  If you want to use your torque wrench with a standard hex bolt and dont have a 3/8" socket to fit, you can use a crows foot if your not afraid of doing a little math to compensate for the offset. 

Heres the math...(pretty frightening, I know  )
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

Heres what your setup would look like (in the case described)




NOW, even simpler, if you have an internal drive fastner (like a socket head cap screw) that you cant find a 3/8" drive hex driver for...get a 1/2" drive model and a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor.  That should run you all of about $9.  AND, you dont have to do any math!

Another note on torque wrenches, if you picke dup the click type (which ill assume you did) make sure you unwind it every time you put it away.  Torque wrenches are calibrated tools so if you use it as a breaker bar, youll throw off the calibration. If you store it with the internal spring loaded, youll throw off the calibration. You get the idea.  Also keep in mind, every single time you use it, you work the spring, meaning you change the calibration just a hair.  Not something we worry about for 99% of the work we do in our garages, but if you use it frequently, (a few bolts a day, every day) you should be getting it re calibrated after probably 6 months...(people have their own thoughts on how often you need to recal, but the longer you go, the farther off youll be when you think your applying a specific torque.) 

Also on torquing fastners,  often times the manufacturer will spec a range...not a single number.  This is why I am a little loose on what Im careful to torque.  Its more important that your torque fastners CONSISTANTLY than it is to nail a specific number.  (when you have multiple fastners on a single "pressure plane" ill call it.  so head bolts, crank shaft main bearing caps, wheel lug nuts...you get my drift)  Blue thread locker and the fastner good and snug is more often than not, perfectly adequate.  (like mirrors...certainly torque your oil plug if you like )

[TealCandy]

You have a few options here as well.  If you want to use your torque wrench with a standard hex bolt and dont have a 3/8" socket to fit, you can use a crows foot if your not afraid of doing a little math to compensate for the offset. 

Heres the math...(pretty frightening, I know  )
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

Heres what your setup would look like (in the case described)




NOW, even simpler, if you have an internal drive fastner (like a socket head cap screw) that you cant find a 3/8" drive hex driver for...get a 1/2" drive model and a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor.  That should run you all of about $9.  AND, you dont have to do any math!

Another note on torque wrenches, if you picke dup the click type (which ill assume you did) make sure you unwind it every time you put it away.  Torque wrenches are calibrated tools so if you use it as a breaker bar, youll throw off the calibration. If you store it with the internal spring loaded, youll throw off the calibration. You get the idea.  Also keep in mind, every single time you use it, you work the spring, meaning you change the calibration just a hair.  Not something we worry about for 99% of the work we do in our garages, but if you use it frequently, (a few bolts a day, every day) you should be getting it re calibrated after probably 6 months...(people have their own thoughts on how often you need to recal, but the longer you go, the farther off youll be when you think your applying a specific torque.) 

Also on torquing fastners,  often times the manufacturer will spec a range...not a single number.  This is why I am a little loose on what Im careful to torque.  Its more important that your torque fastners CONSISTANTLY than it is to nail a specific number.  (when you have multiple fastners on a single "pressure plane" ill call it.  so head bolts, crank shaft main bearing caps, wheel lug nuts...you get my drift)  Blue thread locker and the fastner good and snug is more often than not, perfectly adequate.  (like mirrors...certainly torque your oil plug if you like )

Thanks for the extra info! I made sure I read every word in the literature supplied with the wrench One thing though, it came at its lowest setting as soon as I opened it I stupidly turned the handle the wrong way and it turned past its lowest setting, I immediately realised and put it back to around 15nm I've heard it can ruin it somehow, my grandfather said it will be fine but I am unsure, would this have stuffed it? and if need be the math can be done no worries, I'm a student pilot. Another thing, I've seen people mentioning methods checking the accuracy at home using a vice, wire and a weight.. is it really worth taking to a shop? or can you, after some use check the calibration level at home, compare the the difference and just compensate that difference for every use? or is it much more complex than that lol? Cheers again..

[freeclimbmtb]

I highly doubt you damaged it.

As for cal, I suppose that would work, and you could argue that you could dyno your bikes rear wheel horsepower the same way, but I wouldnt do it.  Of course, I can cheat...weve got a bench top calibrator at work so I just bring my wrech in and check it from time to time, I havent needed to send it out yet..