2005 Monster 1000S. Should I?

[hbliam]

I'd say it's a better bike than a 796. It has better suspension, more power. and IMO better styling.

Agreed.

At the right price (who knows what that is apparently) in relation to the mileage. 19k isn't much in a car. Seems different in a bike for some reason.

The bike I'm in the process of buying has less then 1K miles, is two years newer, and has a bigger motor for a grand more. I'd keep looking if I was the OP.

[ducpainter]

The right price is the one agreed upon between the buyer and seller.

I personally wouldn't shy away because of the mileage. Bikes that sit can suffer unseen damage internally.

If the bike has had the proper maintenance it will go a long time.

[hbliam]

The right price is the one agreed upon between the buyer and seller.

I personally wouldn't shy away because of the mileage. Bikes that sit can suffer unseen damage internally.

If the bike has had the proper maintenance it will go a long time.

The price agreed to is the sales price. That doesn't make it the right price. We both are trying to accomplish the same thing, steer the OP to make a good decision and buy at a fair price.

I agree, the mileage isn't a deal killer but the price should drop accordingly.

And again, agreed. Low mileage bikes need to be looked over carefully. Mine will go directly to Scotty to be sorted and corrected accordingly.

[ducpainter]

The pricing on Ducs in Canada, and OZ for that matter, would make you and I Honda riders from what I understand.

I don't really think we can make informed comments on what that bike should sell for in a different country.

[hbliam]

The pricing on Ducs in Canada, and OZ for that matter, would make you and I Honda riders from what I understand.

I don't really think we can make informed comments on what that bike should sell for in a different country.

Never!

Actually I like their dirt bikes.

[Howie]

Yep, dual spark.  I think at 19K miles if the bike had bad guides they probably would have been replaced by now.  Anyway, if it runs well, no blue smoke and the spark plugs look good you are probably in good shape guide wise.  Other than valve guides and immobilizer/instrument  problems, trouble free bike.  You are looking at an 8 year old bike though, so take it for an unbiased second opinion.   Do look at the service records though.  Timing belts should be changed every two years, brake and clutch fluid yearly, and the ti(y)res should not be over four years old.  The bike should come with the red key and code card.  If not, consider the cost of a computer reflash and related inconvenience (or more if you want the immobilizer to work) in the price.

[Greg]

Greg, thought you sold that bike long ago.

I remember you posting a new bike was on order. What did you get?

I bought a 2012 1100evo from a guy that bought it new and didn't like it, so scored me a good deal on a practically new bike. The 2006 S2R-1000 is still in the garage and gets rode once a month at the track in San Marcos.

It's still for sale, although I'm not exactly busting my ass to sell it

Back to the ops original question, I think I would stick with the 796.
 

[GK]

Interesting discussion re pricing in different countries.

I read what you blokes in the US pay for bikes and cars and petrol, and it almost brings tears to the eyes!

With regards to agreed, fair and best pricing these are my thoughts.

A market economy type rationale always says that anything is what someone is wanting to pay for it. In this view, the seller is always looking for the highest price possible, even if way above what is reasonable. Such people sometimes don't seem to care if they're ripping someone off, if they've found someone who is a bit green and doesn't know they're being taken advantage of.

Another more ethical (in my view) rationale says that a fair price is the price that allows both parties to finish the deal feeling that it's been a win/win, with neither party being stitched up by the other. This is the way I operate. I realise that over many years of buying and selling, I have paid more and received less than others might have for similar deals, but it allows me to sleep peacefully at night. There have been times I've let a vehicle go for less than is actually reasonable, in order to help someone in need out.

The agreed price, is the of course the final price, but often one where one party has had to pay more, or the other receive less than they wanted to, to make the sale go ahead. Such sales I find may leave one feeling far less satisfied than the other.

When I buy or sell, I'm looking for the fair price, but am keenly aware that all too often, the process appears like a competition where the bloke who wins or gets "the best" has the bigger crackers. Someone who is trying to screw me down on price rarely buys my vehicles!

Anyway, there's my thoughts for what they're worth.

Cheers,

GK

[OT]

Depends on how it was ridden -- since when is 19,000 miles a lot of miles?  Mine has 17.5K miles and I've hardly ridden it over the past two years....just getting broken in.  

1) Pull the oil-pan drain plug and see if there are metal flakes on the magnet.
2) Check that there are service records (6K miles and every 6-7.5K miles after that).
3) The only possibly big issue with this motor, that I'm aware of, is premature wear of the valve guides...mine are OK.
4) Not familiar with the immobilizer/instrument issues...none with mine.
5) My 2004 has a manual fast-idle lever (enriches, instead of choking) for cold starts.  Later M1000 engines (not sure if 2005 or 2006+) have an automated system that uses an oxygen sensor to control fast-idle during cold starts - there was a problem with those that, I think, most people fixed by disabling the sensor.