Starting Procedure

[battlecry]

Good to hear, He Man.  The Yuasa Technical Manual says you should let the new battery come up to ambient temperature ~1/2 hour or so and then fully charge it before you use it.  It should arrive at ~80% charge.  R

[He Man]

ok bad news... sort of.

I have a few questions and I'm going to list them since i need discreet answers.

1)When a bike starts up, its suppose to just "come alive" both cylinders fire up strongly and it will maintain an idle. But my bike wont do that when cold. it sounds like one cylinder fires and then it misses, then the other fires and it misses. and i have to wait for the right moment to catch it with the throttle and hold the throttle at 2500rpms manually until it can idle on its own. What sort of problem am i seeing with this? we are talking abuot the SAME battery on two different bikes. (1098 and my dynotuned S2R1100). Assume same charge state.

2)I warmed up my bike and i noticed that it has great difficulty starting with the airbox installed. It seems that the throttle body vacuum hose is the culprit. When its connected to the airbox, it tries to start and isntead spits out white smoke (its the half burnt injection gas that gets pushed out).  When its open the atmosphere, the bike starts up fairly well. My only guess is that the hose on the 1100 is bigger? but im not sure why it would matter since i dont really know how those TBs work

3) With the bike warmed up (oil is about 150 degrees so not fully warmed up) airbox installed, and the throttle vaccum hose open to atmosphere, i cant blip the throttle without it cutting out. idling is not an issue.

edit: This TB Vaccum hose, is actually the hose to the stepper motor (just checked the S2R1000 manual). Perhaps this is the reason why it shuts off when blipping the throttle?

edit2: Verified the M1100EVO (and only the EVO) has a larger hose for the stepper motor. source: Someone on a thread bought the TPO kit for their M1100EVO and said that hte filter they supplied for the normal 1100 motor wouldnt fit.

edit3: I cleared the vent hose. Bike starts up without any issues but the bike does stall when i blipp the throttle sometimes. Warm or cold it happens.

[Howie]

ok bad news... sort of.

I have a few questions and I'm going to list them since i need discreet answers.

1)When a bike starts up, its suppose to just "come alive" both cylinders fire up strongly and it will maintain an idle. But my bike wont do that when cold. it sounds like one cylinder fires and then it misses, then the other fires and it misses. and i have to wait for the right moment to catch it with the throttle and hold the throttle at 2500rpms manually until it can idle on its own. What sort of problem am i seeing with this? we are talking abuot the SAME battery on two different bikes. (1098 and my dynotuned S2R1100). Assume same charge state.

Cold start is a read only map.  Most likely the problem is mixture related.  Slightly restrict air going into the intake.  Better?  The bike is too lean on start up.  Not better?  Increase air flow by removing the lid and/or air filter element.  Better?  To rich.  You can also experiment with the hoses from the stepper motor to the intake manifold.  Restrict them.  Better?  too lean.

2)I warmed up my bike and i noticed that it has great difficulty starting with the airbox installed. It seems that the throttle body vacuum hose is the culprit. When its connected to the airbox, it tries to start and isntead spits out white smoke (its the half burnt injection gas that gets pushed out).  When its open the atmosphere, the bike starts up fairly well. My only guess is that the hose on the 1100 is bigger? but im not sure why it would matter since i dont really know how those TBs work

Vacuum hose?  AFAIK you have a hose from the air box to the stepper motor.  Depending on temperature the stepper motor cycles quickly controlling quantity of air bypassing the throttle plates.  This controls your idle speed and also affects fuel ratio.

3) With the bike warmed up (oil is about 150 degrees so not fully warmed up) airbox installed, and the throttle vaccum hose open to atmosphere, i cant blip the throttle without it cutting out. idling is not an issue.

edit: This TB Vaccum hose, is actually the hose to the stepper motor (just checked the S2R1000 manual). Perhaps this is the reason why it shuts off when blipping the throttle?

edit2: Verified the M1100EVO (and only the EVO) has a larger hose for the stepper motor. source: Someone on a thread bought the TPO kit for their M1100EVO and said that hte filter they supplied for the normal 1100 motor wouldnt fit.

edit3: I cleared the vent hose. Bike starts up without any issues but the bike does stall when i blipp the throttle sometimes. Warm or cold it happens.

Again, mixture.

It may take some time to find the right combination to get things right, or even good enough.   Ummm...this might be easier and get you in the right direction.  Synch hot.  Adjust  air bleeds to 4-6% CO.  Recheck synch and adjust if needed.  Does the bike start cold better now?  Now try out 1/2 turn.  Better?  Worse?  In.  Better?  Worse?

[He Man]

Ill test your suggestions out tomorrow.

running the filter straight to open atmo is fine and dandy. I may just throw a filter on there and call it a day.

Though i still cant quite figure out why the bike shuts off after blipping it. is that also stepper motor related?

video of the bike as of now , airbox on, with K&N filter open airlid and the stepper hose runs to atmo.

Ducati S2R Idle Problems after Blipping

I read your edits. Theres no way for me to measure the CO on the exahust.  The bike starts without much issue cold now as evident in the video.

[Howie]

Probably not a stepper motor problem if idle speed is correct.  I would suspect mixture is off though.  Strange that it is stalling after the blip.  Air bleeds may make a difference.  Did you touch the throttle stop screw?  I would suggest not messing with it. 

[He Man]

Never touched the  throttle stop screw. but if the idle is good, then its probably not a problem otherwise the idle is too low.

Ill check the airbleeds, though they are normally fully closed IIRC.

[Howie]

Yes, normally close to or closed.  Your bike is no longer normal though.  Forgot to say keep notes on everything you do so you know where you have been.

[jaxduc]

I marvel at the expertise in this thread.

[Howie]

I would reserve my marveling until the bike works properly

[He Man]

haha! Howie, i don't know how you know half the stuff you know. ya know!

I didnt make it to the garage today because i *accidently* printed the wiring diagram to my bike....and i found this neat program called edraw which is basically click and point wiring digrams! oh well... lets see what i can do in the next  2 hours.

[He Man]

i lied. i had to go down there. I warmed the bike up for 10 minutes and took it for a short ride and it rode absolutely horrible. Just bad throttle response.

I checked the idle air, and indeed it was normally closed. while messing around there the bike shut off. Turns out if i wiggle the TPS wire on the left side, the bike just dies.

So i cleared everything around it and blipped the throttle, it dies.

I push the wires in and blip it, bike has no problem. Though i did get some scary intake popping through the forward cylinder(is this due to a rich forward cylinder map?)

So it seems as if i have a bad connection somewhere in the TPS connector. Is there a special tool for these connectors? are they reusable?

[dlearl476]

So it seems as if i have a bad connection somewhere in the TPS connector. Is there a special tool for these connectors? are they reusable?

Connector Valhalla.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/

[koko64]

How did you go with it?

[He Man]

I haven't had time to look at the bike till today (and didnt order any of the connectors either)

but i rebuilt the connector, wasnt easy, thing is a pregnant dog to take apart. The wire is now solid (tested the connections with my multimeter).

Bike still cuts out on occasion when blipping. I am not sure what controls the idle rev. I suspect that the TPS isn't reset properly. though i dont have enough knowledge of how that system works to say for sure. Eitherway, I ordered the cables for the ducatidiag program to see if i can reset the TPS myself.

It seems that if i hold back on the throttle during blipping then the idle doestn drop off far enough to cause it to die. Most of the problem exists when im heading towards a light and im blipping the throttle to rev match on down shifts. Meanwhile I pull the clutch in as i get closer to the light and the bike dies. ( today was the only day i rode the bike in a few weeks).

on the plus side, the bike starts up easily and without hesitation.

[Curmudgeon]

If you are running a Siemens ECU, it's adaptive, therefore no fixed map. If you want to reset the TPS, cycling the ignition fully three times will reset the TPS. No tool required. Not sure TPS is your problem. You can't think Marelli when you try to understand Siemens. It more like a modern car ECU than a bike ECU.