DucaBike Rearset for M695

[Dwardle]

I just put the DucaBike rearset's on my M695 and I can't figure out two things with the brake side.

1. Brake light - 695's have a little pressure pin that was inserted in the stock rearset that was pushed in while brake was off.  There's no spot to put this on the DucaBike rearset, and after some research it looks like I have to replace this with a pressure sensor on the master?  Any links people can provide would be helpful!


2. There's no spring pre-load to push the pedal back after you release the brake on the DucaBike set, so it feels like the brake is dragging... how do you make sure it gets released when you take your foot off?


I can post pictures of whatever people need, was really excited for these rearsets to clean up the look of my bike but it's not working out.

Thanks!

[Stormtrooper]

Lots of aftermarket rearsets dont work with the factory brake switch sensor.  Search around the forums, there are a few workarounds for this.

[Slide Panda]

1. For all things brakes (and much more) check Yoyodine
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Search.aspx?Keyword=pressure+switch - confirm the pitch of your threads as they stock 1 and 1.25 pitch.
The switch may not be terminated (Just wires) or some other connector. The ones for the Duc harness are AMP Superseals
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/PN-015-0080/AMP-superseal-2-pole-connector-set - get a set and terminate the switch with that. Don't hack up the harness

2. Ensure there's proper free play and it won't drag. The weight of the lever alone is not enough to active the brakes. I had the same reasets and they don't drag when adjusted properly.

[Dwardle]

1. For all things brakes (and much more) check Yoyodine
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Search.aspx?Keyword=pressure+switch - confirm the pitch of your threads as they stock 1 and 1.25 pitch.
The switch may not be terminated (Just wires) or some other connector. The ones for the Duc harness are AMP Superseals
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/PN-015-0080/AMP-superseal-2-pole-connector-set - get a set and terminate the switch with that. Don't hack up the harness

2. Ensure there's proper free play and it won't drag. The weight of the lever alone is not enough to active the brakes. I had the same reasets and they don't drag when adjusted properly.

This is awesome, thank you for the perfect resources.  It's winter here so I can't actually ride test the dragging brake, so you're answer gives me confidence that it's set up correctly.  I just had it on a rear stand spinning the wheel by hand.

Any suggestions on how to confirm the pitch for the banjo switch?

[TitanMonsterS4R]

PM me your email address and I will send you pics on how it's setup on my S4.  Someone else just asked about this not too long ago so I should have the pics somewhere.

[Slide Panda]

yeah, spinning it on a stand won't tell you much. The final drive (chain and sprockets) will create plenty of drag. One simple, unscientific test would be to set the rod length from the rearset lever to master and move the lever very carefully/slowly. You should have the rod length set so that if you have the lever at the top stop (might have to pull it up there) there will be 1.5mm or so of travel of that rod before you feel it contact the piston. There's not much resistance in that piston, so the feeling is slight so don't hammer on the lever or you'll never feel it.

Another unscientific check is to rotate the wheel with your left hand in a state where you know there is not pressure on the brakes. The wheel should move freely, if not entirely easily, remember that drag of the chain

With that feeling in your noggin let the lever sit at it's present rest spot. Keep slowly rotating the wheel by hand and slowly apply pressure to the lever. You should get though just a bit of the travel and you'll feel the pads make contact in earnest. Just a hair more and you won't be moving that wheel by hand.

Just remember that brake pads are always going to be just skimming the surface of the rotor - no matter what. There's no mechanism on the bike that retracts the pads when you remove pressure from the lever. With no pressure on the lever you're just *NOT* forcing the pads onto the rotors.

A simple way to demo this concept is with your hand and a table. If you just rest your flat hand on a wall, just touching but not pushing. You can slide it across the surface pretty easily right? Next apply more force to your hand, pushing it into the surface of the wall and then repeat the cross wall push. A lot harder right? That's basically how the brakes work. its' that lack of pressure that allows the wheel to spin *more* freely. But really, it's not 100% free.

If you got a front stand and spun the front wheel, you'll hear the pads skimming the rotor. If you give it a spin and note the number of rotations, you'll find that it's not many. Remove the pads from you calipers, sping again and you'll see a marked increase in revolutions you can generate will a hand powered spin.

[Dwardle]

Awesome guys, thanks for all the tips.  Picking up the banjo on my way home (cheaper than shipping to Canada) and ordered the AMP 2 pole connector set.

Completely understand re: brake, I'll make the adjustments you mentioned to test it out and make sure everything's adjusted properly.

I should really just buy some warm pants and get out riding since there's no snow this winter!

[Dwardle]

Pressure banjo installed, pedal adjusted and working great! Extended the reservoir line and kept it in the stock location too.

Amazing!  Bike is finished for spring except tank paint.

[COP TZR]

Pressure banjo installed, pedal adjusted and working great! Extended the reservoir line and kept it in the stock location too.

Amazing!  Bike is finished for spring except tank paint.

sent you a PM regarding the banjo pressure switch.

thanks