695 Engine Explosion!

Lieutenant Dan · January 21, 2013, 08:12:39 PM

I ended up using the gearshift lever to put it in gear with my hand. You're right they were easy to get off. I hope it can stay that way (in 1st) for the rebuild since I wasn't able to easily get it back into neutral so I then just removed the sprocket and bled and removed the clutch slave cylinder.

Anyway here's a progress update...

Day 2:

Lieutenant Dan · January 27, 2013, 08:03:21 AM

For simplicity's sake, I think a 1 for 1 swap of another 695 motor is the best choice. I wouldn't mind more power, but here are a few factors:

1. The 2007 695 engine makes just about as much power as an '01 900. It's been plenty for me.
2. Like has been mentioned, I don't want to deal with the DS1000 valve guide issues.
3. Swapping a 695 for a 695 is just so easy. There are too many factors to consider, on which I have no expertise, if I change the motor out for a bigger one: having to deal with the ECU / wires / new TB / will my existing fuel pump even work??
4. It's cheap. Buy one, drop it in. Done. If I really want to get fancy, I might as well buy a new bike.

Thoughts??

Also, here's another Ebay option I came across... Looks like a potentially decent one:

Ebay 695 Option 4

Lieutenant Dan · January 27, 2013, 08:08:29 AM

Quote from: Lieutenant Dan on January 21, 2013, 09:25:03 AM

This one seems like potentially a good option (does not include side covers) but I do not know what "one of the rings is bent" means...

Ebay 695 Option 3

For an update on this engine, I contacted the seller and he says that "one of the rings is bent" means: Quote: It is actually the locking tab for the nut that is shown in the fifth picture. This will not effect the motor in any negative way.

I believe he took that line off of the item description afterwards.

He Man · January 27, 2013, 08:54:31 AM

Its a locking tab, if one side isnt bent, it isnt a tab and it aint locking! its normal.

Lieutenant Dan · January 28, 2013, 12:37:54 PM

I am going to call this guy (Engine 4). Any tips on what to ask him. I have no experience with such an endeavor...

I'm thinking
1. Mileage
2. Why it was removed

Open to more suggestions to help me make sure I don't get an engine with problems...

Thanks,
Dan

Lieutenant Dan · January 29, 2013, 07:26:04 PM

Got the engine out today...

I feel accomplished...

Of course, I couldn't help but start investigating. Everything under the horizontal intake valve cover looked normal, but...

Is it normal for oil to pour out of your exhaust valve cover when you loosen the bolts?

lazylightnin717 · January 29, 2013, 07:36:09 PM

Yes. Oil from the valve train tends to sit there. I always keep a drop bucket handy when removing the valve cover from the horiz. exhaust.

Slide Panda · January 30, 2013, 05:36:21 AM

+1 - the horizontal exhaust cover and galley have a low spot, so some oil will collect there. So expect that oil every time you open the cover, given that the engines been run since the last time. Good news is you look to have gotten all of it out

Lieutenant Dan · February 02, 2013, 10:38:55 PM

Just some photo updates from this weekend's venture into the horizontal cylinders valve covers...

The exhaust valve stem (along with the mutilated valve guide) just fell right out.

jaxduc · February 03, 2013, 07:40:44 AM

so interesting

Lieutenant Dan · February 03, 2013, 12:16:35 PM

So in trying to check the timing, I needed a way to turn the engine over by hand and with no rear wheel attached nor the fancy Ducati crankshaft turning tool, I opened the clutch cover in order to grab the clutch and turn it by hand.

So I labeled and numbered then removed the bolts on the clutch cover:

And with a little persuasion of a rubber mallet, the cover came off very easily:

Now, here's the thing. Rotating the engine by hand via the clutch was easy in one direction and more difficult in the next (gears turning or something). However, what surprised me is that the crankshaft can rotate about 150 degrees and comes to a distinct stop. I'm seeing the intake valves open and close ALMOST fully but then, clunk! I am thinking I must be doing something wrong, because if the piston was just impacting the busted valve in the horiz cyl, then I would imagine it wouldn't feel like such a distinct stop I am hitting against.

However, the timing looks like it's good as far as I can tell. Even though it won't go to TDC, all the timing marks on the pulleys line up to the same amount away from their respective matching marks on the engine. That's all I need to know, right?? Does this mean the timing is good?

Furthermore, anyone have any experience with why the engine hits a stop after about 150 degrees of crankshaft rotation? Maybe the piston is hitting the busted exhaust valve head or perhaps is there something I just missed about turning the engine over?

Speeddog · February 03, 2013, 12:55:11 PM

Yes, piston hitting head of exhaust valve.

Dellikose · February 03, 2013, 05:46:32 PM

I know when I turn the engine via the rear wheel there is resistance, but only in certain spots. It feels like it may come when either the horizontal or vertical cycle comes to TDC.

I have to give the rear wheel a couple of quick, sharp pushes, then the engine continues to turn and I can hear the air being pushed out of the cylinder.

Lieutenant Dan · February 09, 2013, 09:58:54 PM

Pulled the heads today. Some interesting pictures of the damage the horizontal exhaust valve head did:

The exhaust valve back together again (almost):

JoeB · February 10, 2013, 06:36:18 AM

Yep, that head is rooted.

cheapest option at this stage would be 2nd hand engine. in the meantime, disassembly and removal of horizontal barrel and piston will allow you to look into the case to see how much metal made it's way down there.

rod may also be bent, and not visible to the untrained eye.

Keep the pics coming

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695 Engine Explosion!