Upgrade Strategy/Cost Effective Weight Loss

[jcmjrt]

Exhaust is typically another area where you can shed many pounds.  Don't know abou the M696, but it's shocking how much some of the OE exhausts weigh compared to Termi or similar.  As the others have already pointed out, suspension and wheels/tires will give better return on investment than anything else (in the handling sense).  You'll go broke trying to add lightness with Ti and carbon fiber bits!

BK

I'll have to take a look at weight loss for the aftermarket exhausts. I had rather written them off as an idea as mostly I hear about them for performance upgrades but the monster isn't easily pumped up like some bikes. It's hard to think that Termis lose enough weight to be worth the money on weght savings but it's definitely worth checking closer. I do agree about adding ti and carbon bits which is one of the reasons for looking for other ideas...like this.

[Raux]

do a complete fork replacement not a cartridge.

[jcmjrt]

If your battery and exhaust pipes are high on the bike, you can lower the center of gravity with light weight replacements. This aids the confidence of us shorties.

I dropped 17 1/2 pounds off my bike with Termi carbon pipes and a Li battery.

I agree light wheels are most effective, but cost a kidney.

Wow! 17 1/2 pounds is pretty significant.

[jcmjrt]

Wheels (Carrozzeria could make custom 4.5" IIRC)
Suspension (1100S forks and shock are best options)
Ti/AL replacement (brake rotors/caliper bolts and axles)
Brake Rotors (wave type rotors)
Rear Sprocket (several lightweight options)
exhaust
Battery
CF everything
Ti/AL replacement on everything else

This would be the order for lightweight/handling improvements IMO.

Those Carrozzeria wheels are beautiful and they only look to cost half of a kidney ;0

Wheels and suspension seems to be a theme.

[ducpainter]

I don't have a specific budget at the moment. I'm still riding and thinking about ergonomics and what needs to change how....and I really am trying to develop a strategy about upgrades so that I do them smartly. I'm not afraid to spend a dollar but I'd at least like to do it reasonably well informed and smartly. e.g. I wouldn't want to spend big bucks on ti bolts for the riser. I might lose the same amount of weight as going ti on rotor bolts, however, rotor bolts are unsprung weight and more significant....but maybe a ti axle or aluminum rear sprockets would lose more weight at a lower cost. The truth is that I figure ti and carbon bits are not going to dominate my bike; they are too expensive for what they bring to the game...ususally. ;0

Having said that...what would you do for a rear shock - an Ohlins, Penske, or...? And front fork....go with a new cartridge or..?

I went with an Ohlins. The price was right and the availability was good. I re-sprung it, but did not vary so far from the deign weight that the valving no longer worked. Penske also makes a great shock. Again, it's important that whatever you buy is tuned for your weight. If you buy an off the shelf unit and have to change the spring for your weight it's possible the valving would need to be re-tuned to get the most from the shock.

I believe the 696 has a Marzocchi fork. Traxxion Dynamics makes replacement cartridges.

My opinion is the suspension upgrades will give you the most bang for your buck.

I'd avoid aluminum sprockets...not enough longevity.

[koko64]

Wow! 17 1/2 pounds is pretty significant.

For sure.
The Termis only lost 6 1/2 ibs, the rest was off the battery. My Shorai battery weighs 2lbs. My old Monster had one of those ancient lead acid types that are no longer oem. It was like a Hyundai battery .
The battery on the old M900 sat quite high under the tank so it was very noticable. You may only save 6-8 lbs, but that is still substantial.

My Penske shock saved 1 3/4lbs over the Sachs.
Shaved 2lbs off the flywheel.
Light clutch parts saved 4lbs.
Etc, etc.

It's a sickness.

[S21FOLGORE]

I think that suspension upgrades sound very reasonable, however, weight loss can be pretty significant for improving handling...I'd guess especially for we who are a little smaller.

You have two goals, lighter and better handling.
They don't necessarily follow the same path.

"I" think, reducing weight (for short riders) makes difference more in a situation such as
1) getting on /  off the bike
2) pushing the bike backward while still sitting on the bike
3) parking lot maneuver / u-turn (real slow speed maneuver)
4) going off balance, you may or may not drop the bike
5) pushing the bike on uphill
rather than "handling" (especially at street riding pace.)


For that purpose, better strategy is to focus on
1)reducing weight where hi and far from the center of the bike
(eg, handler bar, mirror, fuel tank, tail section, exhaust (silencer), front and rear fender,etc)
2)moving weight (heavy components) "in" (closer to the center of the bike) and "low"

(this is what BMW did with M3(E46) CSL ... , focusing on moving the weight "in" (center of the car) rather than raw amount of weight could be reduced.)

So, "cost effective" way to do things ...
I'd say
1) suspension upgrade
It would make the biggest difference at reasonable cost in "handling" (assuming that you'd get the one that's tailored to you, not off the shelf stuff) at this stage.
2)Reducing weight in exhaust (silencer )
This would make most difference the way you feel when pushing the bike around / picking it up. ( losing 5-6 lb at that location (hi and far back of the bike) makes more difference (in the way you feel) than losing 3-4 oz around the wheel hub area, even though silencer is sprung mass and brake rotor and rotor retaining bolts are sprung and rotational mass ...)

then, you can start shaving off a bit here, a little more bit there ...

[Raux]

I'd avoid aluminum sprockets...not enough longevity.

http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/final-drive/rear-sprockets/50602l-46

This is what I run, steel

[koko64]

Same here.
It's a good compromise.

[jcmjrt]

Thanks for some really good info and food for thought. After I get a few ergonomic issues dealt with, the next big one will probably be suspension. I'll do some searches on here for Ohlins, Penske and Traxxion. Is Lindeman well thought of in the community; he's local. Of course, any time I need to replace a part, like when the battery goes (who thought I might be looking forward to that!?!) and I can shave weight, I am headed in that direction. I didn't know you could save up to 4 pounds with just lighter clutch parts. I do believe I feel myself catching the sickness.
I had thought a fair amount about rotational and sprung weight but hadn't really thought of the exhausts as both a source of a few pounds and at a location - high and back - which is particularly ripe for weight loss. And the lightened rear sprockets are a great idea when I end up changing out the chain, etc.

A lighter flywheel would save weight but would you get as smooth of a ride? I know that it being light it would power up quicker but it also powers down quicker too. Does it perceptibly change the way the bike handles?

[Raux]

the lightweight flywheel has been one of my favorite mods, hands down.

[koko64]

LE being local is handy.

The carbed flywheel was about 4lbs stock. The clutch very heavy. Flywheel weight can be a personal preference regarding smoothness and engine braking. You will need further advice on your model (than I can give).

Reducing the rotating weight of engine internals also contributes to handling agility, but people mainly do it to promote acceleration .

[BK_856er]

LE has an outstanding reputation and you probably can't go wrong there, but Lindemann passed away a few (?) years ago and others are running the operation.  I would try to get some current recommendations to be sure it's the best option for you.  If you're local to LE you are also local to Catalyst Reaction and Dave Moss and Nichols and others.  You are fortunate.  A good local suspension guy is a huge plus.

BK

[Triple J]

Another vote for suspension and wheels, in that order.

A good suspension shop should be able to re-spring and valve front & rear of your bike for about $1,000. It'll make a big difference...as much as you'll ever need on the street. Ohlins are nice, but unnecessary on the street IMO (nice though if you have the money). If you're local to Dave Moss, then that's where I would go...he's good.

Wheels will make a massive difference in handling. Massive. Sure they're expensive, but they're still the best bang for the buck as far as handling goes. Do your research on weights though. The Carrozzeria wheels are "cheap" for a reason...they aren't as light as other options. Unless something has changed in the 3 years since I researched and bought wheels, OZ wheels are the lightest for forged aluminum (Marchesini are about the same, but more money). Personally I think the OZs look the coolest too. BST CF are the way to go if you can afford it though.

I put OZ wheels on my 748 race bike 3 years ago. Keep in mind, it was a race bike, so everything that could be removed had been and it was already way lighter than a street bike. WHOA...massive difference the 1st time I took it out. Everything was noticable better...cornering, transitions, braking, maybe even a little on acceleration. Best money I ever spent on that bike.

[ducpainter]

I think your estimates for revalving and springing a Marzocchi equipped bike are low Triple J.