Quick clutch spring replacement

[DosVerde]

Hi All,

I'm about to change out the rusty cluch springs with new stainless ones, so I'm after a bit of advice.

The kit comes with the springs, collets, s/s cap heads and a bearing. I'm not changing the pressure plate, so can I just replace the springs/collets/bolts one at a time so I don't have to pull the whole thing out?

And should I really change the bearing, or is that only if I pull the pressure plate off?

Cheers 

[Slide Panda]

You can remove the pressure plate and not have to replace that bearing.  Dry clutches were hand me downs from track tech.  They made them dry to facilitate fast easy chances of the friction stack. 

But how many miles are on that bearing?

You can remove all 6 springs and the pressure plate won't come off - it'll just stay in place unless you pull it off or pull on your clutch lever.  You can replace the springs 1 by 1, but you don't *have* to.

Make sure you don't over tighten the spring retainer bolts.  Torque spec on them is 7Nm - basically hand tight.  Oh and some blue threadlocker never hurt

[Norm]

Pull the plate out, it will probably pull the whole rod with it, then feel the bearing foor smoothness. If in doubt, replace it, if not, safe the new bearing for next time.

[DosVerde]

Hee hee, I think I was just being lazy. The clutch has about 10,000 km on it, (2007 S4R) so maybe I should change the bearing. sounds pretty straight forward, so I might at well do the lot.

Cheers. 

[ScottRNelson]

I had a throwout bearing failure on my ST2 and it took the clutch slave along with it, since the rod was spinning all of the time.  Throwout bearings are cheap.  Replace it for peace of mind.

[davejenknz]

The throwout bearing only needs to be changed if there is any stiction. That is any resistance to turning.
However since you already have one in the kit and it's only a five minute job, you might as well fit it now.