FCR tuning issue

[memper]

So I put the FCR settings back to the common baseline: 3/4 fuel screw, 1,1/2 pilot screw. Hanging idle coming off throttle has gone away but the idle is just slightly hunting. Becomes even less, though still audible, after warm. Gonna turn in the screw in a bit to see if there is any change. Carbs are fully seated snugly.

I looked into my "filters" that I have on my v stacks. They are nylon booties from Outerwears that can filter down to .005" which is about 127 microns, which is about the size of baking flour.

On McMaster Carr they sell filter bags. Im going to get one and use the material to make a second layer of filtering between the Outerwears filter and the stack opening. 10 microns (equal to talcum powder) should be plenty effective at filtering. I think any less microns than 10 would become very air restrictive.

[krista]

Ummmm, btw, I'm pretty sure any gains you will see aren't worth all the efforts... just run the airbox with the metal adaptors maybe? ... and get back to enjoying the bike?

[memper]

Oh im enjoying all of it actually. The tuning and the riding. For me its all lumped together.
Air box is gone. Never going back even if i had one. I think i just need a bigger pilot jet.

[krista]

Yaaay, well, that's what matters -- that you're riding and having fun. They're slow jets in that carb. They should be plentiful anywhere and if not, we can mail you a couple.

[memper]

Update:
I have the pilot air screw at standard (1.5 turns out) and I turned the fuel screws out from 3/4 turns to 1 full turn. It runs a lot smoother though they might need to be dialed back a touch. I can smell some gasoline at red lights. 30mph mini-flat spot has almost completely vanished.  
I got new plugs in and though I really need to do a throttle chop test I think plugs that have been simply ridden can tell some useful info.
Horizontal plug was sooty on the top ring. The ground strap was dark half way up. Heat mark at the bend and gray to the end. Ceramic was dark and sooty (but not caked) all the way up. But the last 1/16" was light gray.

Vertical plug was sooty (lightly as well) on the top ring. Ground strap looked the same as the H plug. Heat mark at the bend as well. Ceramic was vastly different. Just slightly off white with a large patch of light/medium brown that covers about 1/4 of the ceramic.

I would guess the carbs are out of sync. Is it stupid of me to assume new carbs from Sudco are in sync?
Question 2: perhaps the carbs are in sync and Duc cyls each have different needs. I vaguely remember reading that somewhere. True?

[Howie]

Since there is one variable  that cannot be considered before the carbs are installed they must be synched after installation.  Thbat variable is your engine.  You are, in effect, synching two one cylinder engines.  Adjust, synch, adjust again, synch agin if needed...

[brad black]

plugs look ok to me.  1/4 on the fuel screw is a pretty minor change.

[memper]

Question about the sync: ive read it involves using a small drill bit as measurement but doesnt say what size. "Small" is a relative term...

[Howie]

Synch is done on a running engine by measuring vacuum or flow.  Some manuals suggest using a drill bit to establish a throttle opening as a basic setting to get the vehicle in the ball park to get the vehicle running.

[memper]

Pat Burns seemed to suggest that the drill bit method was sufficient. But I understand you. I will check the vacuum after the drill bit method. Hopefully I dont have to tear down the carbs more than once.
I think I will write him to see what he means by "small" drill bit.

I am mostly satisfied with my horizontal plug though it reads a bit rich in the midrange. The vertical plug has too much white for my comfort level, though by many standards its not exactly lean.

Whats shitty is that one of the dials is busted on my vac gauge so I gotta do the switcheroo dance while checking.

[Howie]

The throttles need to be open a certain amount.  Since part of the idle adjustment is done with the pilot air screws ideally you need a certain clearance between the throttle plate and the bore and you need something round to do this, thus a drill bit.  As long as you start with both throttles equal I wouldn't worry that much. 

[memper]

I get it. Its more about creating a base setting that is equal for each. The actual size isnt exactly important as long as its fairly small.

[memper]

During the carb sync I noticed something odd. The slide adjuster nuts were all the way down. They seemed to be equal but I did the drill bit method using a 1/16" bit. I also moved my needle clip up one slot as I believe my mid range to be a bit fat and leaned out the pilot some. But I gotta get new plugs to see whats going on.

[krista]

Turning the slide height adjusters is a weird process, you have to turn the nut and the screw together when the nut is loosened.

[memper]

I found a better way with removing the screw. The weird part is that the adjuster nuts were all the way in.  It started raining so i have yet to hook up my sync dials.