Advice on top triple and bar replacement

[Duc-Key]

I have ordered a Magura aluminum handlebar for my S2R Dark.  Since the Darks came with an old school 7/8" chrome bar and the lower bracket half is cast into the top triple, I had to get a top triple to match larger radius.  Okay, I admit, I had to replace the bar because I dropped my bike and bent the stock one.  Anyway, anyone have any advice or tips on removing and reinstalling the top triple?  I've already seen on the old site that the steering nut doesn't have to be removed.  Any other insight or special tools I'm unaware of?  I'm also replacing the headlight bracket for the same reason, in case anyone cares to comment on that procedure too.

[Slide Panda]

Some of the things are awkward to get at, and it'll involve taking off more things than you initially think, so budget extra time.  To get a good shot at one of the bolts holding on the triple you might need your tank off (a great excuse to install some quick-disconnects).

For you, I'd
1.  Remove guages
2.  Remove headlight and supports
3.  Remove/disconnect and had controls switches.
4.  Remove bar.
5.  Have a good look at the bolts on your triple - there will be 3 and figure out if you can get at them w/o removing the tank
6.  Realize that step 5 is really a hassle and pull off your tank.
7.  Loosen bolts on top triple and 'coax' it off
8.  Fit new top triple.  Be sure not to over tighten any of the bolts.
9.  Remount headlight and guages - loosely.  They may need to come off again
10.  Mount bars and test routing of control lines.  - This is where you can eat up a lot of time.  IF the new bars sit about where the old ones did - easy peasy.  If they have moved a good bit you're going to be looking to re-route hoses wires and cables and this can be a big time suck. YOu may be havign the guages off again etc.
Make sure that things don't bind - especially the throttle cable.
11.  Fuss, swear drink a beer.  Repeat 10 as needed.
12.  Finalize and tidy things up.

[Duc-Key]

I figured on having to prop the tank up, not remove it completely.  Is there a reason that won't work?  The bar should be a stock Monster bar (just aluminum non Dark bar) so I shouldn't have to reroute anything.  I'm also replacing a bent headlight bracket at the same time so I'll be removing the gauges, lights, etc. anyway.  I've already had the headlight and gauges partially off once but didn't notice any connectors.  I hope I just didn't see them.  You don't have to cut and splice any wiring, do you?

[Slide Panda]

I figured on having to prop the tank up, not remove it completely.  Is there a reason that won't work?  The bar should be a stock Monster bar (just aluminum non Dark bar) so I shouldn't have to reroute anything.  I'm also replacing a bent headlight bracket at the same time so I'll be removing the gauges, lights, etc. anyway.  I've already had the headlight and gauges partially off once but didn't notice any connectors.  I hope I just didn't see them.  You don't have to cut and splice any wiring, do you?

The angle to get at the bolts around the steering nut is a PITA.  That's why you might have the tank off - just to get a better angle on it.  You'll be groping around the tank if it's still on.  Give it a try with the tank on, but i bet you'll find it makes a big hassle.

You won't need to cut or splice anything.  All the switches, gauges and headlight do have snap fit connectors when they join the main harness.  YOu might not have followed them far enough to find the connections is all.  But they are just snap ins, so they have be unplugged really easily and are made to do so.

Really the things that would be hassles would be the throttle cable and hydraulic lines.  But if eveything's going back on in a stock or nearly config you should have not worries like that.

[Duc-Key]

Changed everything a couple weeks ago.  Everything went okay just propping the tank up.  I'm now rolling with a black anodized, tapered aluminum handlebar and a Dark windscreen.  Sweet looking and I'm averaging +5mpg .  I have had a couple issues though.  One of which is my cheap bar end mirrors (internal mount only) will not fit in the new bar; but that's just an excuse to order the CRG Hindsight Lane Splitters I wanted all along.  The other concern is the steering lock doesn't quite line up with the new top triple.  I've adjusted the stops as far as possible.  Is there any adjustment in the switch or will I have to grind down the hole in the triple to make the lock work?  Is it even worth bothering with?
Next mod: Sparkshack type header to retain my Arrow slip-ons, anyone have some they want to give away?

[wllgmr]

I did the same mod on my s4 and my steering lock wouldnt line up either. So close though. As far as I can tell the only fix will be to open the hole on the top triple with a die-grinder. I have not done it yet, I'm kinda lazy like that. Those 1 1/8 bars are by so much better than my old ones!