torque specs for sprockets

[leungevity]

Hi all,

I'm changing the sprockets on my 03 m800 sie, and was wondering if anybody can provide the torque specs for the bolts that attach the sprocket to the rear wheel and the 2 bolts that attach the front sprocket.  I've seen torque values for other models, but not sure if they translate to my bike.

any other important torque specs would be appreciated as well. (axle, brake caliper, etc)

Thanks in advance!

found this, not sure how applicable it is though.
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=373.msg0#new

[leungevity]

well hopefully this works out... i torqued the front sprocket to 4 lb-ft with some blue loctite...

still trying to gain some concensus for rear sprocket torque specs and rear axle, leaning towards about 35 for the sprocket and close to 60-70 for the rear axle. 

anybody care to tell me if i'm close?

thanks

[Slide Panda]

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=373.0

For my m 900, rear axle is 72 Nm

[leungevity]

thanks, guess i'll go with that number.

funny, when i ordered my sprockets from Ca-cycleworks, i told them to just give me the stock sprockets and as it turns out, my bike had the 14t front already done, but i received a 15t from the shop.  guess i'll get better fuel economy

[Howie]

The rear sprocket is 46 Nm., blue loctite.

[krista]

Also, best to isolate the torque on the pins: put a hex key into the back of them then clamp the key in a vice. THEN torque the nuts.

The two tiny screws (M5?) on the sprocket get 60 in-lb (if they're M5). That's about HALF what a t-handle can do in the average dude's hand.

[leungevity]

thanks for the help! 

so i thought i was SOL on the master link, since it's a rivet instead of a c-clip, but turns out a friend had the riveter tool.  SAVED!

until i went to put the chain on, and found out that the unexpected 15t front sprocket screwed up the chain length we already cut (in reference to the 14t chain)

might have to buy a 14t front sprocket so i don't have to get another chain.

[Howie]

Another option is add another master link.

[leungevity]

  yea, that's the other option we're pursuing... seems like that might be the way to go, since a master link is cheaper than a sprocket

[ellingly]

Wouldn't you need to add more than just another master link? After all, you are joining two inners and losing an outer to put another master on.

1 tooth on the front is half a link worth of extra chain needed, at most. So the chain is wrong even with the axle all the way forwards?

[brad black]

Also, best to isolate the torque on the pins: put a hex key into the back of them then clamp the key in a vice. THEN torque the nuts.

check the pins are tight too.  I always do the above, but use a tyre lever b/w pins to turn the cush drive around the pin to make sure it's tight, then tighten the nut.  some are really loose.

14mm nut pins usually go ccw, 15mm nut pins go cw. 

[leungevity]

so here is something i learned... when pressing the master link together, use a socket wrench with a 14mm socket to turn the press, instead of the tiny little lollipop stick they give you.

[leungevity]

thanks for the help everybody, the chain went back together yesterday and i actually prefer the 15t front sprocket to the 14t.  it just feels smoother to me