Continuing Saga of my 2000 M750...

[krista]

Did you try turning up the idle a little? It's hinted at but you haven't specifically said yes or no trying.

[Javamoose]

Did you try turning up the idle a little? It's hinted at but you haven't specifically said yes or no trying.

No, actually, I haven't...could that be all it is, the idle set too low after the shops rebuilt the carbs?

I'm assuming the whole airbox needs to be removed to get at the idle set screw?

[krista]

Yes, it could be that's all you need... and upping the idle is my first response to a Ducati stalling at idle. There is a reasonable amount of latitude here. Once the idle is above 1200 rpm, it will "feel" too fast. Go by what feels ok.

No, using long phillips screwdriver, look at the picture posted above and you can adjust it without removing airbox. I've done it. You probably need to turn the front wheel to the side to get a straight shot to the correct screw.

[koko64]

Long Phillips head, small LED flashlight and watch out for the hot front exhaust pipe! I drop the oil cooler out of the way and lay down beside the bike looking up under the airbox. It's the bigger, closer screw iirc. That pipe is so close to the head it will quickly burn your clothes (or skin).

[Howie]

IMO, as per koko's suggestion, dropping the oil cooler is a must, as is a long screwdriver.  The one I use is about 2 feet long.  Also, the screw is much easier to see if the bike is up on a lift.  Do bring a copy the photo ducatigirl100's reply on page 2 of this thread.

[Javamoose]

Ok, I'll give this a go this weekend and see what the response it.  Any idea how much I should turn it?  Am I supposed to do this while it is running (which means I would need to bypass the side stand safety switch)?

[Howie]

You could do it by trial and error, but better and easier running.  Bypass the sidestand switch.

[greenmonster]

If you disconnect lines at the float chambers,
and you turn the starter a few secs, does the fuel flow freely then?

[Javamoose]

Well, three full turns clockwise (in 1 turn steps) and it idles way faster with the choke on, a tad faster with the choke off...but still won't idle without any choke for more than a few seconds with out dying.  Also, seems like even more partial throttle hesitation.

If you disconnect lines at the float chambers,
and you turn the starter a few secs, does the fuel flow freely then?

Well, my assumption is that the fuel is flowing freely, since it'll run at higher RPMs and it was running ok for a month or two.  Would a failing fuel pump cause idle issues, but not higher RPS issues?

[Howie]

This probably.

Sounds like the slow jets are plugged.
The holes are quite small, doesn't take much swarf to plug one.

[Javamoose]

This probably.

*sigh*  Well, that's what I'm afraid of...ridiculous after paying two shops a ton of money and have the carbs rebuilt, and specifically asking them to check the jets, that it's likely this.  So, if I replace the slow jets myself, do I have to re-sync the carbs and everything again?

[Howie]

They just need to be cleaned.  Yes, you should adjust after.  Sounds like the first shop didn't do the work well enough.  Second shop?  Dunno, but dirt in the system can foul the carbs again since there is some yuck always left in the system.  It might also be worth a trip back to the shop so they can see what is going on and you are doing things right

[Javamoose]

They just need to be cleaned.  Yes, you should adjust after.  Sounds like the first shop didn't do the work well enough.  Second shop?  Dunno, but dirt in the system can foul the carbs again since there is some yuck always left in the system.  It might also be worth a trip back to the shop so they can see what is going on and you are doing things right

That makes sense, unfortunately I had called the second shop to ask if they knew what this might be, and the owner/manager/head-tech (all one guy) told me that all Ducs act like this and that I wasn't warming it up properly and that "I should come down sometime so he can give me a lesson on how to start my bike", dripping with sarcasm and arrogance.  This is the only Ducati shop located within 100 miles.  Add in the fact that I'm out of money to spend on the bike and it costs me $60 to get my bike back to them, and then whatever they will charge to do the work, and I don't know what I'm going to do.    The worst part is, I'm well over $1,500 into this bike in work in the past four months just to get it running and back on the road, I only paid $2,800 for it - and would be lucky to get $2k for it if I sold it.

Out of curiosity, why do the carbs need to be re-synched/tuned after cleaning the idle jets?

[Howie]

They might not need adjusting, but it should still be checked.

[Javamoose]

They might not need adjusting, but it should still be checked.

Ok.  So, if I were to do it myself, would it be the 132.4.003.1D Idling Jet, not the 132.4.006.1A Starter Jet, correct?  DucatiOmaha lists it as a $15 part...which is not bad.

Edit:  Looking at the fiche a bit more, I would need one per carb, right?  Looks like the carb needs to be pulled apart to change the idle jet as well?