Poor Mans Brake and Clutch Bleed Technique - okay or no way?

[The ModFather]

On my 2005 Monster 620...So last time I bled my brakes I just hooked a clear hose up to the bleeder and put the other end in a bottle then pumped the brake lever until the reservoir was almost empty then filled the reservoir with new fluid and pumped it again till the color coming out of the hose looked like the new fluid not darker like the old fluid. Then I kept pumping and filling till no more bubbles were coming down the hose in to the bottle. Seemed to work fine and I've ridden it that way for a while with no issue but now I need to do my clutch and I'm having second thoughts about this method for the clutch. Should I be dumping the old fluid in the bottle out and filling the catch bottle with new fluid and submerging the hose in new fluid because of possible draw back up the hose? (I didnt see much being drawn back up as I was using a clear hose). Should I just buy a mity-vac and completely drain the fluid first? If my method is sound can I do the clutch the same way?

[DarkMonster620]

On my 2005 Monster 620...So last time I bled my brakes I just hooked a clear hose up to the bleeder and put the other end in a bottle then pumped the brake lever until the reservoir was almost empty then filled the reservoir with new fluid and pumped it again till the color coming out of the hose looked like the new fluid not darker like the old fluid. Then I kept pumping and filling till no more bubbles were coming down the hose in to the bottle. Seemed to work fine and I've ridden it that way for a while with no issue but now I need to do my clutch and I'm having second thoughts about this method for the clutch. Should I be dumping the old fluid in the bottle out and filling the catch bottle with new fluid and submerging the hose in new fluid because of possible draw back up the hose? (I didnt see much being drawn back up as I was using a clear hose). Should I just buy a mity-vac and completely drain the fluid first? If my method is sound can I do the clutch the same way?

You can do it do it either way, pumping and filling until clear fluid comes out or getting the MV and doing a reverse bleed to fill or use it to draw from reservoir to catch bottle . . .

[ute]

Yes you can do it the way you did the brakes , that's what I have done

[brad black]

I usually suck one reservoirs worth thru with the vacuum bleeder, then pump another through to flush the slave as best possible by pulling in the lever with the bleeder closed, opening the bleeder and then closing again then releasing the lever.  that way you suck new fluid into the slave and push the increasingly diluted fluid out with each squeeze.

not sure if it works, but it feels like a good idea.

just be careful with the coffin res masters that you don't squirt fluid everywhere when you pull the lever in.  that sucks.

[The ModFather]

Bled and flushed the clutch as well as I could (only once though) but still cant find neutral. I'm doing the zip-tie overnight technique tonight. Debating whether or not to just put on the Oberon and bleed and bleed and see if I can remedy this with a new clutch slave or possibly have the Ducati Dealership put the new clutch slave on (they charge $100 and quoted me 45min to install the Oberon Clutch Slave and bleed it). My concern after reading about all the people with APTC  clutches that have had this same problem after putting on the Oberon Clutch Slave. Not sure I want to go through all bleeding only to end up taking it to the dealership in the end as opposed to just having them do it right.  If I do it myself should I pull out the push rod wipe it down grease it and replace the O Rings? Or is that not really necessary. I would think it would be part of the routine maintenance every X number of miles if it was really required. I did partially pull out the push rod (about 5 inches) when I removed the clutch slave to powder coat the clutch cover. Wonder if the O ring slipped on it?

[DarkMonster620]

Bled and flushed the clutch as well as I could (only once though) but still cant find neutral. I'm doing the zip-tie overnight technique tonight. Debating whether or not to just put on the Oberon and bleed and bleed and see if I can remedy this with a new clutch slave or possibly have the Ducati Dealership put the new clutch slave on (they charge $100 and quoted me 45min to install the Oberon Clutch Slave and bleed it). My concern after reading about all the people with APTC  clutches that have had this same problem after putting on the Oberon Clutch Slave. Not sure I want to go through all bleeding only to end up taking it to the dealership in the end as opposed to just having them do it right.  If I do it myself should I pull out the push rod wipe it down grease it and replace the O Rings? Or is that not really necessary. I would think it would be part of the routine maintenance every X number of miles if it was really required. I did partially pull out the push rod (about 5 inches) when I removed the clutch slave to powder coat the clutch cover. Wonder if the O ring slipped on it?

I have the Oberon and have no issues, either with the coffin or thr RCS master . . . I just loosened the 3 screws, placed teh Oberon, put line on slave, bled . . .

check the rod . . .

[The ModFather]

No oil leak anywhere so I'm not sure if the pushrod O rings are an issue but I guess it wouldnt hurt to take it out check it and clean it off while installing the Oberon.

[uclabiker06]

Don't know if this will help but perhaps you can look into speedbleeders; JMTC.

[suzyj]

Patience, padawan. I've done my clutch a couple of times. Takes a few days.

[BK_856er]

The ziptied lever trick can work wonders on pesky clutch hydraulics.  I don't know if it really matters, but I usually try to rotate the bars to get the MC as high as possible.  Those tiny bubbles need to rise up.  Give the line a rap/vibration along its length to dislodge air bubbles that might be clinging to the interior.

If you recently changed brands/weight of engine oil, that could also make finding neutral difficult.

The little clutch pushrod O-rings on my M695 square off every year or two and I get a minor leak at the slave.  I now keep spares on hand and just change them out when it's convenient.

BK

[The ModFather]

Realized today that finding 1st is also a problem and downshifting just drops straight down to 2nd no matter if you're in 3,4,5 or 6 (although I don't think in getting 6th either). I'm thinking of buying a harbor freight Mity-Vac and just doing it right. If I do go the M-vac route am I supposed to drain ALL the fluid with the Mity-Vac then fill the reservoir and bleed?

I want to point out that prior to this I had no issues with my clutch what-so-ever. Loved the APTC clutch. Super easy to shift up or down. Unlike some stories I've heard didnt matter if the bike was warm or cold shifted perfectly every time.

[ute]

I don't think its the bleed you did , but pulling out the rod may have nicked something .

I have done the Duc and Gixxer many times like how you would  bleed your brakes with no issues whatever ( did you try the zip tie ? )

[The ModFather]

Did the zip tie no change. Need to try rebleeding as I only bled it once. I also switched from Spectrol semi-synth 10w-40 to Amsoll full-synth 10w40 oil. Clutch feels a bit mushy and light so I'm gonna try another bleed and examine the push rod.

[DarkMonster620]

Did the zip tie no change. Need to try rebleeding as I only bled it once. I also switched from Spectrol semi-synth 10w-40 to Amsoll full-synth 10w40 oil. Clutch feels a bit mushy and light so I'm gonna try another bleed and examine the push rod.

but you're using DOT4 in the clutch, right?

[The ModFather]

but you're using DOT4 in the clutch, right?

Yes Sir