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Author Topic: Front sprocket removal - Solved  (Read 1285 times)
Skybarney
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« on: October 03, 2013, 03:09:45 PM »

Hi folks,  Been trying to remove the front 14t sprocket the dealer installed for me.  Not having much luck.  

1. Bike in gear
2. Chain on.
3. Safety washer bent back
4. GF (not tiny) on bike with full pressure on the front and rear brakes.
5. 5ft. breaker bar.
6. Lefty loosey righty tighty (double checked that one with shop)

The rear wheel will spin before the nut breaks.  Not sure what to do I tried my cheap impact wrench to no avail as well.  Could the dealer that put on the front sprocket have installed it with something even stronger?  Anyone have any ideas? I am about to put it on the truck if I can't figure it out tomorrow.
« Last Edit: October 04, 2013, 12:07:47 PM by Skybarney » Logged

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Raux
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« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2013, 03:12:59 PM »

heat
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Skybarney
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« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2013, 03:26:22 PM »

Thanks Raux,  Time to break out the propane torch........  Thoughts on how long to heat it up?  Not had to do this on the bike before and don't want to damage anything.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2013, 03:29:10 PM by Skybarney » Logged

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Raux
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« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2013, 03:46:25 PM »

I've used a hair dryer before,
but you can use a heat gun

don't forget there's a seal behind it, so not too hot
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« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2013, 08:11:18 PM »

When I was chasing red loc-tite on a BMW aluminum swingarm... I just tried it every few minutes or whenever I got impatient (read heat, try, heat, try, heat, try). 

If it's glowing, you heated it too much.
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« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2013, 08:22:50 PM »

Impact gun and back on at 186 Nm.  The nut isn't, or should not be held on with red loctite, locking it is the job of the tab washer.
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Skybarney
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« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2013, 11:40:38 AM »

Success!  3/4 impact wrench and a huge industrial air compressor at 200ft lbs.  Now I am just a tiny bit concerned about the play the new quick change carrier has on the cush buttons.  It wiggles a bit side to side and I don't remember that being the case stock.  I am gonna ride i over to Moto Wheels and see what they think.
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« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2013, 01:29:10 PM »

Success!  3/4 impact wrench and a huge industrial air compressor at 200ft lbs. ......

Was that done while the bike was in gear?
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Skybarney
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« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2013, 08:23:23 PM »

Yup.  It was a bear to remove.
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brad black
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« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2013, 12:30:13 AM »

I generally impact them off with the bike in neutral and the rear wheel on the ground or just held with your hand.  that way the chain takes the thunk thunk thunk, not the gearbox.
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« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2013, 03:55:14 PM »

I generally impact them off with the bike in neutral and the rear wheel on the ground or just held with your hand.  that way the chain takes the thunk thunk thunk, not the gearbox.

My technique also.

My question was rhetorical, with hope for some future consideration for that poor drive train.  Wink
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« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2013, 03:57:37 PM »

I saw a video made by SBTG and they took a short length of steel pipe with a towel wrapped around it and fed it through the wheel which created a brace against the swing arm.
I did the same but with a 2x4.
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« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2013, 04:32:19 PM »

I saw a video made by SBTG and they took a short length of steel pipe with a towel wrapped around it and fed it through the wheel which created a brace against the swing arm.
I did the same but with a 2x4.

Yep. Also, some SSSA paddock stands have a bar attachment for the same purpose.
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Skybarney
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« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2013, 06:48:13 AM »

I did put the chain on the bike wrapped it around the rear sprocket and tied it off.  Good point on the drive train, it was on the advice of the local Duc shop that I do it that way.  As it was whacking away I wondered if it was going to harm something in the drive train.  Luckily she feels great!   The 520 chain and sprockets actually do change the feel of the bike a bit.
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