Help with buying a bike online/out of state?

[Triple J]

Nada has that bike worth $7,500 including the exhaust (avg. retail). This seems low to me, but that's what they're saying.

KBB has it worth $8,400 in excellent condition (no option to add exhaust).

The dealer has to respect these values, as they use them against people who trade in cars. They most likely used the KBB and Nada trade-in values when they purchased the bike themselves, which means they paid WAY less than $9,800. They also know that aftermarket add-ons don't add much value, although the exhaust may have a value to you.

Based on the above, I'd offer the guy $8,000, and I'd reference the Nada and KBB values. He won't take it, but it is a reasonable starting position. His asking price isn't any more reasonable. Before you make an offer you just have to decide what your max. dollar value is though. Set it and stick to it.

I'd wait until you agree on a price to pay the $170 for an inspection, and tell the guy the sale is contingent on that (if you want an inspection). It looks like a very clean bike though.

[Chri5]

Nada has that bike worth $7,500 including the exhaust (avg. retail). This seems low to me, but that's what they're saying.

KBB has it worth $8,400 in excellent condition (no option to add exhaust).

The dealer has to respect these values, as they use them against people who trade in cars. They most likely used the KBB and Nada trade-in values when they purchased the bike themselves, which means they paid WAY less than $9,800. They also know that aftermarket add-ons don't add much value, although the exhaust may have a value to you.

Based on the above, I'd offer the guy $8,000, and I'd reference the Nada and KBB values. He won't take it, but it is a reasonable starting position. His asking price isn't any more reasonable. Before you make an offer you just have to decide what your max. dollar value is though. Set it and stick to it.

I'd wait until you agree on a price to pay the $170 for an inspection, and tell the guy the sale is contingent on that (if you want an inspection). It looks like a very clean bike though.

You make a great point. Thanks for that. Now i have some type of leverage. Anything else you can recommend me use as leverage?

[Triple J]

That's all I can think of. The question now is does the dealer, being a car dealer, know anything about the bike and its value and also how eager are they to sell it. Being a Ducati, they may think they have some rare special vehicle on their hands or something. In the end you just have to decide what you're comfortable paying, and don't go over that. If they don't accept it, then oh well. Good luck!

[Scottish]

In my experience as both a buyer and a seller in a retail environment, "negotiating" is the wrong way to...negotiate. The seller knows his own bottom line, as do you. Make your best offer, and politely explain that it really is your *best* offer...not because of KBB...or a keyscratch...or this or that. "This is what my budget can allow...can you accept it?" then be prepared to walk away.

That being said I really do loathe dealing with used car dealers...too often there's a ton of double talkin' BS and not enouh integrity, so the candid, respectful approach may not work. Some of these guys just can't do business that way.

+1 my .02 is offer $9000, and walk away if they aren't interested. In the past I've even made an offer that was originally declined and I left them with my contact info. A week later they've called after not getting the interest they anticipated. Often dealers will also reduce price if you have your own financing or cash. They don't have to hassle with ppwk, I've had dealers knock 18% off the original price before.

As for buy it or not, as stated above it will largely depend on your comfort level. Based on the cars in the background of that shot though it looks to be a "premier" type dealer. They often times like a showroom full of eye candy (which would explain why they grabbed a Ducati), that means they don't tend to pull junk. Most the junk is taken directly to auction, that and their sellers rating considered and I would buy it if the price was right.

[Chri5]

I have thought of another way that I hope will help me settle a better price. I've come across an article on motorcycle depreciation. The irs determined that the useful life of a vehicle is about 5 years. And the annual depreciation of a vehicle can be calculated by dividing the price of the vehicle by 5. So if the msrp of the vehicle brand new was $10300, the vehicle depreciates $2060 a year. Based on that the vehicle should be worth around $8200 this day.

What do you guys think of that?

Does it or does it not apply to this vehicle since the miles are low? Or does it apply because there are miles period?

P.s. I came across another 2012m796 in white about 20 mins away from me with 400 more miles for $9200. How can I use that info to my advantage? I really prefer to own the black one but obviously I'm not gonna mention that to the salesperson. All the negotiating will be done over the phone btw.

[Triple J]

Personally, I'd stick with the BB and Nada values during negotiation, and maybe throw in the local one as well. I'd leave out the IRS paper. Something like, I can get this one for less than $9,200 and it's right around the corner...so I need the price of yours to be lower so it makes sense for me to come and get it...plus KBB only says it's worth $8,400.

I disagree with the approach of giving your best offer initially, and walking away if they don't take it. This is an OK approach for buying something from a friend...but a dealer is expecting a negotiation, and this approach isn't one. There's almost zero chance they take your first offer, as they expect to negotiate a bit and will therefore offer a counter. Your first offer is just your negotation starting point, just as their asking price is theirs. The idea is to set your 1st offer at a reasonable level to be taken seriously (if too low it will just get dismissed), while also giving yourself enough room to come up a bit comfortably.

If on the off-chance they do take your 1st offer, then rest assured you could have gotten it cheaper. There is an art to negotiation, and car dealers are very good at it since they do it every day.

[Chri5]

Personally, I'd stick with the BB and Nada values during negotiation, and maybe throw in the local one as well. I'd leave out the IRS paper. Something like, I can get this one for less than $9,200 and it's right around the corner...so I need the price of yours to be lower so it makes sense for me to come and get it...plus KBB only says it's worth $8,400.

I disagree with the approach of giving your best offer initially, and walking away if they don't take it. This is an OK approach for buying something from a friend...but a dealer is expecting a negotiation, and this approach isn't one. There's almost zero chance they take your first offer, as they expect to negotiate a bit and will therefore offer a counter. Your first offer is just your negotation starting point, just as their asking price is theirs. The idea is to set your 1st offer at a reasonable level to be taken seriously (if too low it will just get dismissed), while also giving yourself enough room to come up a bit comfortably.

If on the off-chance they do take your 1st offer, then rest assured you could have gotten it cheaper. There is an art to negotiation, and car dealers are very good at it since they do it every day.

Thanks for that. Let u know how it goes.

[Speeddog]

~~~SNIP~~~
 And what would a mobile mechanic do anyway beyond maybe the oil and a visual inspection? It's not as if he/she's going to check the valves. $170 sounds like a waste.

If they're decent sharp they could, for example, visually detect a bent frame.
Which most folk's wouldn't have a chance in hell of finding in photos online.
That defect would reduce the value substantially.

Or a bent wheel, rusty chain, tweaked forks, nail in tire, broken crankcases at the mounts, yadda yadda.

[Rudemouthsky]

If they're decent sharp they could, for example, visually detect a bent frame.
Which most folk's wouldn't have a chance in hell of finding in photos online.
That defect would reduce the value substantially.

Or a bent wheel, rusty chain, tweaked forks, nail in tire, broken crankcases at the mounts, yadda yadda.

Good points. I still think it would make more sense when buying a much older high mileage bike. In any case I would insist on only putting down a modest deposit as earnest money and reserving the right to refuse the sale. If he buys that bike through eBay he'll be extremely well protected. If not, request references. I still don't like the idea of buying a bike from a car dealer the more I think about it. But that one really is clean looking.