rock hard clutch lever - stuck at work

[Privateer]

04 620. 67000 miles. Recently flushed fluid. Rode 170 miles Friday with no trouble.

On my phone. Forgive my typing.

On the way to work clutch lever suddenly became rock hard. Can't move it at all.

Ideas?

[BK_856er]

Hopefully some others will chime in, but I've heard of that happening when the clutch hub nut backs off.  Not sure if you can check that at work in a parking lot.  I might be inclined to first crack the bleed screw and give the lever a pull.  If the lever won't move the problem is upstream?  Next you could remove the slave cylinder and see if anything falls out and the pushrod slides OK.  You running those plates I sent you?

BK

[Speeddog]

Yes, clutch hub nut backing off is the most likely cause.

I've seen a slave piston that was drilled through bt the pushrod, courtesy of a locked up pilot bearing.
Piston o-ring still somehow sealed on the pushrod, so it  just bottomed out.
Dry clutch bike, though, that failure mode on a wet clutch very unlikely.

[Ddan]

04 620. 67000 miles. Recently flushed fluid. Rode 170 miles Friday with no trouble.

On my phone. Forgive my typing.

On the way to work clutch lever suddenly became rock hard. Can't move it at all.

Ideas?

Is the clutch engaged?

[Privateer]

thank you AMA roadside assistance.



so yeah, got home, started messing with the clutch slave first, all seems good.  when I disconnect it, it works great.  Not good.

Pop the right side cover and start taking the clutch bolt springs off.  The last one is a little tricky so I'm fiddling with it, and yeah, the entire clutch basket and drum comes off in my hand.  The nut wasn't on at all.

yeah so I always wanted to see what it looked like under there.

The tangs on the basket all look ok.  I can see on the inside of the cover where it scraped a little but I don't see any damage to anything else.

Anything else I should consider upgrading/replacing/fixing/checking while I have it all apart?


so now I guess I need one of those clutch holding tools, I have a 32mm socket, and something to torque to 140 ftlbs?

[Speeddog]

At 67k miles, check the friction plate thicknesses.

Individual frictions not less than 3.5mm.
Full stack not less than 41.3mm.

I'd recommend OEM.

[Privateer]

At 67k miles, check the friction plate thicknesses.

Individual frictions not less than 3.5mm.
Full stack not less than 41.3mm.

I'd recommend OEM.

I replaced the plates about a year ago with BK_856er's 18,000 miles plates from a 695.  I've probably put another 12-15 on them.  so I presume I'm OK there.


I can't seem to find the basket holder thingee at monster parts, moto wheels, ca cycle works... anyone know where one can be acquired?

unless someone local (socal/oc) has a loaner I could pick up?

[BK_856er]

Glad you found the problem.  If you have the APTC clutch (you should if you are using my take-off plates) there is a special holder for that smaller diameter basket.  You could probably cobble something else together.  Regardless, make sure you take pains to correctly torque the hub nut.  The factory calls for moly grease on the threads.  Some people like to use Loctite instead due to the habit of these backing off and doing damage, but if you go that route make sure you use the correct product and degrease the threads.  Whatever you did last time did not work.  I obsessed over how to deal with it and recounted my hybrid process somewhere here.  FWIW, mine is still OK.

BK

[DarkMonster620]

need a manual?

[Speeddog]

APTC is an oddball hub, doubt you'd find anyone outside a dealer with a hub tool.

Put it in top gear, 2x4 across the swingarm blocking a spoke.

Ignore my previous thickness numbers, I thought you had a regular wet clutch.

[Privateer]

Glad you found the problem.  If you have the APTC clutch (you should if you are using my take-off plates) there is a special holder for that smaller diameter basket.  You could probably cobble something else together.  Regardless, make sure you take pains to correctly torque the hub nut.  The factory calls for moly grease on the threads.  Some people like to use Loctite instead due to the habit of these backing off and doing damage, but if you go that route make sure you use the correct product and degrease the threads.  Whatever you did last time did not work.  I obsessed over how to deal with it and recounted my hybrid process somewhere here.  FWIW, mine is still OK.

BK

I didn't do anything with the hub nut when I replaced the plates.  maybe I should have /shrug

APTC is an oddball hub, doubt you'd find anyone outside a dealer with a hub tool.

Put it in top gear, 2x4 across the swingarm blocking a spoke.

Ignore my previous thickness numbers, I thought you had a regular wet clutch.

thanks Nick!

need a manual?

other than as described here... is there something else I need to know?  If you have a PDF I'd love to have it, though.

[DarkMonster620]

I didn't do anything with the hub nut when I replaced the plates.  maybe I should have /shrug


thanks Nick!

other than as described here... is there something else I need to know?  If you have a PDF I'd love to have it, though.

pm me your email, tomorrow I'll send you a dropbox link

[Speeddog]

2x4 will need to be on the bottom of the swinger, so you may need an assistant.

[BK_856er]

Might be worth perusing this thread:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=24411.0

BK

[Dirty Duc]

APTC is an oddball hub, doubt you'd find anyone outside a dealer with a hub tool.

Put it in top gear, 2x4 across the swingarm blocking a spoke.

Ignore my previous thickness numbers, I thought you had a regular wet clutch.

It's been a few years since I swapped out the APTC... but I seem to remember that the holding tool I bought from Desmo Times worked on both the APTC and the regular wet clutch (which is weird, because on the site it says it is for dry clutches).

Maybe it didn't fit, and I removed the APTC using the 2x4 method.