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Author Topic: I keep lossing 1 cyclinder...  (Read 3561 times)
lpgoldtop
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« on: June 01, 2014, 08:34:21 AM »

2013 m1100evo. about 3k miles. I have had at least 4 instances( twice this morning) when this happened: riding on the highway usually 55-66mph, and 1 cylinder stops firing(not sure which). engine light on, coil malfunction code on the dash. Kill the engine and restart, still I cylinder, no engine light. turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds, turn back on, it runs fine. I can't find any loose wires and the plugs are tight and look OK. Dealer says nothing they can do unless I bring it in WITH THE COIL CODE UP(which is a bit of a bother because I'd have to leave to power on and transport the bike to the dealer 50 miles away from my usual riding spots). Anybody had this with an EVO monster?
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Buckethead
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« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2014, 11:33:51 AM »

Lemme guess, only happens after it gets up to temp?

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lpgoldtop
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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2014, 01:28:50 PM »

There has always been at least 2 bars on the engine temp readout on the dash, yes.
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« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2014, 08:33:40 PM »

I don't know about the new-gen Monsters, but it was not unheard of on the old gen to have a bad coil winding. The coil would heat up, an open condition on one of the windings would develop, and the coil (and its attendant cylinder) would stop firing.

First things first, especially if it's consistently throwing up the code for a coil malfunction, I'd check the spark plug wires, their connections to the coil packs, any wires leading to the coil packs, and the physical condition of the coils themselves.

Let us know what you find.
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Howie
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« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2014, 09:26:11 PM »

I don't know about the new-gen Monsters, but it was not unheard of on the old gen to have a bad coil winding. The coil would heat up, an open condition on one of the windings would develop, and the coil (and its attendant cylinder) would stop firing.

First things first, especially if it's consistently throwing up the code for a coil malfunction, I'd check the spark plug wires, their connections to the coil packs, any wires leading to the coil packs, and the physical condition of the coils themselves.

Let us know what you find.

Yep, checking  primary and secondary coil resistance when hot would be the method for finding a bad coil.  I don't know the spec though, since, on the new Monsters this is done with the DDS tester.  You could just measure both and compare since only one is failing.  Could also be a bad injector.  2013?  Sounds like warranty waytogo 
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lpgoldtop
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« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2014, 02:15:57 AM »

I would check the coil, but I can't get to it without removing stuff.and that would void the warranty.dealer won't do anything with it without an active code up...I'll have to ride it till it craps out again and have the bike towed with the ignition on, then get a ride home.
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« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2014, 03:21:54 AM »

Active code?

They can't glean any clue form the error code history log?
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« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2014, 04:15:26 AM »

Your dealer is being a PITA.  Take down note of the code and as much details are associated with it; temp, duration running, etc.  Then get the bike to the dealer and let them know how it is happening and it is my experience that they will try to replicate it in order to repair it.  I've never had a dealer of any kind refuse to help because the error is no longer showing on the dash.  It may take a little more work on their part to get to the cause but that is their problem, not yours.  Other option is to just ride around the dealer once you get it there until the error pops up again.  Good luck.
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the_Journeyman
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« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2014, 08:23:35 AM »

I remember someone having a problem like this and it turned out to be a poor spark plug wire.  The insulator that capped over the plug had a crack and it would get warm, expand just enough and then the spark for that cylinder would ground out.

JM
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« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2014, 08:41:43 AM »

So they didn't even do a visual and run diagnostics with the DDS before sending you packing?  Unacceptable.? 
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lpgoldtop
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« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2014, 10:14:13 AM »

They know the error code is in the memory.They told me they rode the bike until it was well up to temp and no error.said there was nothing they could do unless the the bike was faulty while at the shop, and it was fine for them.this bike has already had the can bus harness replaced under warranty and I've had lots of trouble starting out in colder weather. Usually people tell me"that just how ducs are"...
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« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2014, 01:09:42 PM »

It's not "just how Ducs are.  I ride mine in cold weather (I've been out in a snow storm with both a carbed Duc and a FI Duc) on a regular basis.  I never have any trouble aside from needed a minute to warm up to the fuel atomizes properly.  The shop needs to take another look.  If there is something in the code history, they should at least go through the basic troubleshooting for that particular code.

JM
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« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2014, 04:08:23 PM »

Try clipping a 1/4" off each plug wire
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« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2014, 05:50:31 PM »

What is the lemon law in MD? Call customer service at DNA and get a file rolling. If this dealer is so unresponsive, ask DNA  where to take and leave the bike. The main number in California is 408-253-0499. Be polite, take names and be persistent. While you're at it, ask them to have the regional PSR call you directly. You paid your $$$. You are entitled to a 100% functional machine.
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