Dead Bike Stator / Regulator Rectifier? FIXED

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

The bike has been acting funny all day, chugging at times. I was at a stoplight and the bike died. AI pushed it across the street onto the sidewalk. The dash lights light up, the fuel pump primes but it won't start. It only clicks and throws the engine light when I try to start it. I'm waiting for a flatbed now and will attach to the VDSTS when I get home and check for codes. I figured I'd start this thread to get your thoughts.

I did the valves recently but I know that's not the problem as I have done many valve adjustments without a hitch.

Thanks guys


FYI the battery is new

[Howie]

Sounds like a charging system problem.

Even though the battery is new start by full charge and load test.  Then check charging system output.  You want to see 13.5-14.5 volts across the battery at 3K RPM.  Post back with your results.

[Buckethead]

I had similar symptoms about a week before my regulator/rectifier tried to melt me.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

I think you guys are dead on, thanks.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

I had similar symptoms about a week before my regulator/rectifier tried to melt me.

Was your bike backfiring before your rec went out?

[Buckethead]

No more than usual, or at least not that I noticed.

I have on 06 Sport 1k with Boom Tubes. It's a bit loud.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

Sounds like a charging system problem.

Even though the battery is new start by full charge and load test.  Then check charging system output.  You want to see 13.5-14.5 volts across the battery at 3K RPM.  Post back with your results.

Load test results are 12.6 volts at 3k rpm. With everything off I got 12.9v, with the key turned I got 12.6v. I bought a used regulator on ebay from the same bike and year that had 4k miles on it. This rec/reg lasted me 53k miles. I hope the new one last me as long or longer (crossing fingers). Thanks for the help guys. 

[Buckethead]

Yup. R/R sounds like it's shot.

When I replaced mine, I went to Radio Shack and got some CPU heat sink compound and filled in the hollow on the bottom to help with heat transfer. I also mounted it to a chunk of aluminum for the same purpose.

They are a pretty "meh" design, but they're cheap and they work. For a while. Lots of people on here have had the same issue. Some relocate it to an area with better air flow to aid in cooling, others swap out for a MOSFET rectifier. Either way, most people wind up replacing one (or more) eventually.

[Howie]

Load test results are 12.6 volts at 3k rpm. With everything off I got 12.9v, with the key turned I got 12.6v. I bought a used regulator on ebay from the same bike and year that had 4k miles on it. This rec/reg lasted me 53k miles. I hope the new one last me as long or longer (crossing fingers). Thanks for the help guys. 

Before condemning the regulator more testing is needed.  Go here for a "how to"   http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide

Before anything else check the connection where the three yellow stator wires connect to the regulator for corrosion and overheating and make sure your battery connections are clean and tight.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

Before condemning the regulator more testing is needed.  Go here for a "how to"   http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide

Before anything else check the connection where the three yellow stator wires connect to the regulator for corrosion and overheating and make sure your battery connections are clean and tight.

I got the new/used RR and all readings were the same. I can return this item within 14 days minus shipping

Battery connections are clean and tight. The wires on the RR side look good but the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator at the plug look kind of dark.

I did further testing with the fault finding chart. I got to the last test on B, switch Multi to AC Voltage and check the voltage on the stator between the 3 wires while grounding them to the engine casing. They all came out to be about 11 volts at 5k rpm. It seems the stator is the problem. Thoughts?

[Howie]

If you did the test correctly (and it sounds like you did) yes, but before buying a stator you could try cutting the stator wires back until you get to shiny copper and try again if you want to save money.  Good place for stators:  http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

[Speeddog]

Not sure how you're measuring the AC voltage coming out of the stator.

If we call the 3 wires A, B, and C.

I measure the AC voltage between A-B, A-C, AND B-C.

Nothing grounded.

I will measure resistance between A, B, and C to the cases, to confirm that none of the windings are shorted to the armature.

[Howie]

Not sure how you're measuring the AC voltage coming out of the stator.

If we call the 3 wires A, B, and C.

I measure the AC voltage between A-B, A-C, AND B-C.

Nothing grounded.

I will measure resistance between A, B, and C to the cases, to confirm that none of the windings are shorted to the armature.

Dang, how did I miss that.   "grounding them to the engine casing is wrong".  I like Speeddog's ABC explanation.  Simple and clear

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

After starting at the begging of the fault finding diagram I ended up on the last page doing these two tests.



The 1st one yealded .07ohms if I remember correctly.

The 2nd one is what Speeddog is describing. All three readings were at 11volts at 5K rpm.

Ill go ahead and strip the wires back a bit and make sure everything is nice and shiny before putting everything back together.

[Howie]

Output is stator wire to stator wire.  Follow what Speeddog says.  Either in your mind or by labeling call one wire A, one B and one C.  As Speeddog says, " measure the AC voltage between A-B, A-C, AND B-C."