Ducati in The Rockies 2014 Ride Report
It seemed like an innocuous idea at first. Ride the bike out to Ouray, Colorado for the 9th annual Ducati in The Rockies event. I had done it before…ridden out in 2012. I had also ridden to Indianapolis and back for MotoGP in 2013. This wasn’t any different…right? The trip in 2012 had been across the southern tier of Nebraska and through eastern Colorado. But it was also excruciatingly boring even with going off the beaten path.
Ducati in The Rockies was started by a group of folks from the Ducati Monster Forum back in 2005 to celebrate all things Ducati, debaucheristic and hooliganistic. It has ebbed and flowed with the times but continues to be a fantastic gathering of good people willing to welcome any and all.
So a plan was hatched. Go north this time. I had tested cell service in South Dakota and had found a bunch of hidden gems and decided that I wanted to reacquaint myself with them once again.
The route would take me via some state and county highways from my home in West Des Moines, IA, northwest to Sioux City and then west through northeast Nebraska and then back and forth over the Missouri River a few times before heading west along the southern tier of South Dakota. Ultimately, I would end up in Wyoming and then head south to meet my wife in Denver.
At this point, the plan started to evolve. I started mapping out the route in Google Maps and discovered I was awful close to making the requirements for a Saddlesore 1000. I just had to add another ~200 miles onto the trip. After some fiddling with my route and such, I ended up with a route that would take me 1114 miles in less than 24 hours.
With the initial route planned, I began to fine tune things. Where would I stop for breaks? Would I camp or hit up a hotel room for part of the night? Would I just push on through with nothing more than gas breaks to break up the trip? As the time for the start came closer, I began to check the weather. 2 weeks out and it was looking fine. At 1 week out and there’s a 30% chance of rain along a good portion of my route. At 2 days out, the chance has increased to 50%.
Equipment that was used on this trip…
Motorcycle: 2012 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S Touring Outbound, all 3 bags on and loaded with camping gear, Inbound, Just top box mounted with extra water inside
Tires: Michelin Pilot Road 3s with ~3500 miles on them at the start of the trip
Gear: Firstgear Ranier Jacket, Firstgear HT Overpants, Shoei Qwest Helmet, Firstgear Kathmandu Gloves (wet), Ducati (Dainese) Motard Gloves (dry), Teknic Chicane (Cortec Latigo) Boots, Aerostitch Boot Raincovers
GPS: TomTom Rider (2014)
Misc: Firstgear Torrent 70 liter dry-bag (stored tent, sleeping bag, cot, sleeping pad and pillow)
My day of departure arrives and I head off to work. I decided to work until 2pm with an expected departure time from home of 5pm. Things at work tend to never go as planned and I end up not leaving work until 3pm. But my gear is all packed and all I have to do is strap what I am taking on the bike on and head out.
I get home and get the gear loaded. I take one final look at the weather and it looks like the gods will be kind as the lines of storms are all north/northeast of my intended route.
The trip from home to Sioux City is dry and uneventful. Threatening clouds loom but the rains hold off until I get to Sioux City, IA. At this point, the weather gods have mocked me enough and decide that I lack humility in their eyes.
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zltful, on Flickr
The skies open up and for the next several hours. At one point, the crosswinds were so high I was forced to seek shelter under a gas station awning in Plain Center, SD. I was hiding behind the pumps as the wind was blowing the rains sideways.
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zltful, on Flickr
At one point, a young Sioux Indian man mentioned that there was an awning over their patio behind the station and I was welcome to shelter there being that it was out of the wind, I would be better off there. I took him up on his offer and spend the next 45 minutes waiting for the rain to die down some and swapping into dry gloves and boots (Both were waterproof…both failed). At that point, the rains had died down to little more than a steady drizzle. So I soldiered on. I crossed over the Ft. Randall Dam which is one of my favorite dams in the Midwest. It “feels” similar to the Hoover Dam but with far more width and far less height.
My original plan was to stop and camp at the Burke Lake State Recreation Area but as much rain as I had already been through, I didn’t trust that I would find a dry spot to set up camp and decided to soldier on a bit further. I stopped for gas in Winner, SD and decided at this point that I was done for the night. It was time to find a warm dry place to sleep for a few hours. I had seen a Holiday Inn Express back a mile or two from the gas station and backtracked to the hotel. The lot was full of trucks with trailers and under the awning, about 30 Harleys all huddled together from the rain.
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zltful, on Flickr
I pull up and walk in all drippy and road weary and ask the night clerk if there were any more rooms available. She has 1 room and it just happens to be next to the guest laundry. So I take the room, unload my change of clothes from the bike and head up to my room. I strip out of my gear and stuff it all into a dryer, throw a couple of dollars’ worth of quarters in and proceed to sleep for the next 3 hours. I wake up, gather my gear and proceed to the dining room for a quick breakfast.
Day 1, 404 miles. Route:
https://goo.gl/maps/u8NL7With my belly full, my gear dry and motivation in my soul, I look outside and am disheartened to see that it is still raining. So I check the Weather Underground app on my phone and it looks like I will be west of the worst of the rain in under an hour. So I load back up on the bike. All the while, the rugged individualist prairie pirates are mocking and jeering at me and my desire to continue on in the rain. I just smile and shrug off their jeers knowing that I am having adventures while they are having coffee.
I continue west on US 18 at a good clip and am gunning for Hot Springs, SD as my next gas stop.
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zltful, on Flickr
As I am riding, I lose my headset.
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zltful, on Flickr
Well…crap…I guess I forgot to pack the charger for my Sena. So now my only option for music is my pair of cheap ear buds. But after a short time, I realize that they are not blocking any wind noise and they are fatiguing me horribly. So back in go my ear plugs and no music for the rest of the trip to Denver.
All is not lost though as I encounter small herds of the notorious Prairie Pirates on their rugged individualistic Hogs all blatting out their monotone song. I begin to come up with, what I think, is an accurate interpretation of what they sound like talking to each other.
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zltful, on Flickr
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zltful, on Flickr
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zltful, on Flickr
And thus is created, my new alter ego, “Smokey, the bad ass biker Prairie Pirate, perpetrator and perpetuator of the Rugged Individualist Persona”. I begin to have conversations with Smokey who proves himself to be a worthy companion on this trip. At the very least for his entertainment value as he is a clueless moron.
This portion of the trip is mostly uneventful except for 2 things of note.
1. Through the width of the entire “Buffalo Gap National Grassland” I spotted exactly zero buffalo. Far and away the biggest single disappointment of this whole trip.
2.
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zltful, on Flickr
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zltful, on Flickr
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zltful, on Flickr
3. Hail and torrential rains driven by a 65mph crosswind will leave welts even through decent quality riding gear. I ran into a tremendous storm coming into Cheyenne, WY. Hard to blame the storm as I saw it from about 900 miles away.
The trip from Cheyenne to Denver was pretty much slab as I was ready to wrap up this portion of the trip. My wife was waiting for me at my final gas stop down the street from our hotel for the night in Golden, CO. Here she signed my ending point witness sheet and my first goal of the trip was accomplished…a successful Saddlesore 1000.
Day 2, 710 miles. Route:
https://goo.gl/maps/fajD6Mission accomplished. I made my Saddlesore 1000 with 1114 miles in 21 hours, 33 minutes from start to finish and even got a few hours of sleep in.
But at this point, I am flat out exhausted. I head into the hotel, shower, shave and lay down for a short nap. After my nap, we hop in my car (my wife drove the whole way as she doesn’t enjoy the long bike trips as much as I do) and head to LoDo (Lower Downtown Denver) to meet up with a buddy at the Squeaky Bean
http://thesqueakybean.net/ for dinner and drinks.
The food is amazing and the libations equally so, served to us by a wonderful young lady who was attractive, intelligent and very engaging. She made our visit a truly memorable experience. We will definitely be back.
The rest of the night was rather uneventful as I went to bed semi-early and slept in a bit as I wasn’t supposed to meet the folks from Denver I would be riding down to Ouray with until 10:00am.
The following morning, I load up what little gear I will be taking with me on the bike. My wife will be shuttling the rest of my gear the rest of the way to Ouray in the car so that I can increase the level of spiritedness of the rest of the ride down.
I meet up with 3 other folks in Morrison, Colorado and we head down to US 285 then over to US 50 to Montrose and then south on US 550 to Ouray. We stopped in Gunnison for a late lunch and ran into some construction west of Blue Mesa Reservoir but otherwise, the trip was rather uneventful with nothing to distract from the amazing views.
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zltful, on Flickr
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zltful, on Flickr
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zltful, on Flickr
That night, my wife and I decided to walk up the road to “downtown” Ouray for dinner and happened across the Bon Ton Restaurant in the basement of the St. Elmo Hotel. http://stelmohotel.com/ We inquired about a table and they offered us a seat on the patio. The weather was perfect so we accepted.
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zltful, on Flickr
For an appetizer, we ordered the mussels. They were nothing short of amazing and being something of an expert in mussels, rank them in the top 5 best I have ever had. When my salad arrived, the waitress also brought a bowl of the soup of the day. It was a locally harvested wild mushroom soup with hints of roasted red peppers in a very flavorful beef stock. I hadn’t ordered the soup but the waitress said that it was close to closing time and she hated to see it go to waste…besides, she thought I might like it. She was correct. The only thing that would have made it better would have been if it had chunks of roasted pheasant in it.
For dinner, I had ordered the chicken picata. It was tasty but below par in my eyes as my wife already sets that bar ultra-high with her own. It was still a nice light meal to end the day on.
Of course, being a dessert junky, I had to spring for the tiramisu. And I wasn’t disappointed. While not the best I have ever had, it was still awful darn tasty with a cup of coffee chasing it down.
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zltful, on Flickr
After dinner, we wandered down and then back up Main Street and headed back to the hotel to read and go to bed. All in all, a fantastic end to a wonderful day.
Day 3, 290 miles. Route:
https://goo.gl/maps/GBIl6