Anyone running Beast-R intake

[RonB]

Looking at the Beast R and Corse Dynamics intakes. My question is their a noticeable difference over a open air box. And did a reflash get it running good enough or did you have to get it tuned

[koko64]

Very good question.
Interesting to see if the these large pod/barrel type filters and velocity stacks really offer more than an open airbox. It appears from reports here that the small pods without a velocity stack don't. It raises the issue of how much of the performance increase is due to a well designed velocity stack mitigating any losses from the pods and the contribution of a well mapped and tuned ECU.
There are guys running these types of set ups here and it's worth running a search on it. Some are running the WASP kit, others the Corse Dynamics and others the Beast kits. Be good to see a comparo one day.

[koko64]

IIRC Ungeheuer is running a WASP kit and went to great lengths to tune it to the optimum.

[RonB]

I have read tuning may be a issue.

[koko64]

Some have complained of a very layered power delivery, rough low speed running, flat spots and holes in the power curve.

Honestly, I seems that with any intake or performance mods that tuning is everything. Proper tuning finishes the job and I'm guessing that's where the problem is. People have already shelled out big bucks for the kits and then are told that to get the best out of them or at least mitigate any problems, they need a reflash, piggy back unit and/or dyno tune. If they skimp on the tuning the bike may well have issues, but that's the way it is. If you just bolt on these parts without tuning (and carbs for that matter) and they work well, then you are very lucky imo. IIRC Doug Lofgren and Brad Black have both commented on their sites how good parts can get a bad rap because of a lack of tuning. It's true.

At least the kits you mentioned have velocity stacks and large volume barrel filters. The mfrs seem to have gone to a lot of trouble in designing the velocity stacks. That's a far cry from shoving a little pod on the end of a naked throttle body.

So factor in some $$$ for a good tune

[RonB]

I guess I'm wondering if the reflash will be good enough to work with these kits? And if there is enough gains to justify the price?

[koko64]

If there is a reflash map derived from a dyno tuned kit then at least you will be in the ballpark. My brother has tried a few maps for his open airbox, hi comp, open pipes combo on his 900Sie and it has taken a few attempts to find a map that is quite close. He was lucky I reckon as an FBF map worked quite well for his mods. If the kit mfr has a map I guess its a good start and should be considered a first step. You might be lucky. It also depends on how much of a perfectionist you are!

Check out Ungeheuer's thread on his WASP kit for a perfectionist's approach to tuning.

Check out bikeboy.org and look up tuning issues for your model to get some background. Brad was online before and might chime in.

[koko64]

And if there is enough gains to justify the price?

I like a well designed airbox. Maybe the velocity stacks inside them can be improved. An open airbox with high flowing filter and a good tune is a good bang for buck mod. It would be great if someone made some nice velocity stacks to go inside the existing airbox of two valve models.
I'm sure bikeboy has a report on his site for the S2R.

[RonB]

Anyone know the hp gain from a open airbox? Dyno chart on the one only showed 4 hp gain. Probably not worth it unless you had a bigbore kit and ported heads.

[koko64]

I have just re-read the article in bikeboy.org on tuning an S2R. I would suggest you read it carefully to see what Brad did with an S2R 1000. The hp gains were significant and the smoothing of the power curve substantial. The work was external, open airbox, disconnect lambda sensor, tuning the ECU with different options.
You would need to find someone who knows what they are doing with this model to dyno tune it, although some of this appears quite DIY. Someone has done the research and generously shared their knowledge. Brad has pretty much made a template of stage one tuning.
It looks worthwhile to me.

[thorn14]

Different bike, but on my 800 with the beast NON-R stacks, it smoothed out my power delivery from open airbox, slipons, and DP map. I was surprised, but I'm sure that means it wasn't ideal before adding pods.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

I had the beast kit on my monster and removed it after about 1000 miles (including a few trak days).

even with a custom dyno map and PCIII it was significantly worse than an open airbox with a high flow filter.

the sound, however was BADASS

[koko64]

Any outcomes Ron?

[Estoma]

I had the beast kit on my monster and removed it after about 1000 miles (including a few trak days).

even with a custom dyno map and PCIII it was significantly worse than an open airbox with a high flow filter.

the sound, however was BADASS

I know where you are coming from.  I have had terrible Results using Pods in the past – granted, I’ve only used small ones and mostly on Inline-4s.

An Air Box is a Plenum Chamber for all intents and purposes; especially modern ones featuring Rammed Air Intakes.  The Plenum’s Claim to Fame is that it operates at a slightly Positive Pressure, to equalise Air Pressure across the entire Chamber in order to facilitate Even Distribution and Laminar Flow.  That is the Theory.  Conceivably the Practice as well if you look at what Works’ Teams use.

I think that the claimed (perceived?) success of the humungous WASP Pods and even TPO’s huge Beast-R Pods (as opposed to the smaller original Beast) might be their sheer size – approximating Plenum Chambers in terms of allowing lots of lower velocity and (importantly) less turbulent Air Flow.  The main drawbacks, IMO, remain; 1) the inability to induce Positive Pressure, 2) constraining the length of their Velocity Stacks and 3) Exposure to the Elements.

One’s first course of action should be to improve your Stock Air Box, if possible.  Be careful blindly cutting holes in it – an ‘Open Air Box’ is practically as bad as small Pods*.  You need to preserve the Air Box’s ability to build up and maintain a Positive Pressure, even if ever so slightly.  And you need to devise a way to ram COLD Air into it, through the largest possible Filter Area using the smallest possible Inlet Tract Area that you can accomplish this with at Maximum Demand (Full Throttle, maxed RPM).  Easier said than done, and obviously more readily achievable with newer Bikes already featuring Ram Air Intakes designed using CFD (Computerized Flow Dynamics) Modelling.

If Pods are the only option you have, I would suggest the biggest ones (WASP) fitted with K&N Drychargers® or Prechargers®.

*   An ‘Open Air Box’ could well be a viable option if combined with large Pods to mimic K&N Airchargers®.