Alternatives to expensive Ducati parts

[bond0087]

$4.50 (Or $15.39+shipping) Manual Fuel Petcock:

Many owners choose to replace their faulty (or soon faulty) vacuum operated petcock for a manual one.  One choice is a Motion-Pro 5/16" inline manual petcock, as seen here: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/12-0036/, which AFAIK works well, and costs $15.39+shipping.

I was going to use that, but when I had to work on the fuel system for other reasons and didn't have the part on hand or the time to order it online, I found an alternative that works locally at Advance Auto Parts for $4.50.  It is an inline plastic fuel shut off valve, and has worked for me so far, but I must warn that it isn't exactly right for the application because it has 1/4" barbs on each end rather than 5/16".  At least so far, clamps on the barbs have held the hose securely in place, even though the barbs are 1/16" smaller than they ideally should be.  I fabricated a bracket to mount the petcock where the old one mounted. As always, YMMV. If this is a planned mod done at your leisure, I would probably spend the extra $15 or so and go with the Motion Pro, but in a pinch, a fiver and a trip to AAP provides a reasonable solution.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_1-4%22-Fuel-Shut-Off-Valve-Max-Power_6180063-P_N3582C_A%7CGRP2097

Finally, if you're going to do this or any other work on your fuel system, make sure you have a working fire extinguisher nearby; you never know what might happen. (I came dangerously close to needing mine when I left a sharp edge on the bracket that I made... when the engine was idling after first starting it up, the vibrations turned that sharp edge into a carving knife and sliced right through my fuel line, spraying fuel right near the rear cylinder header. Good thing I caught it before I tried a test ride and could turn off my handy fuel shut off valve.)

[DarkMonster620]

This is maybe in ducatiz thread but just in case
Baldwin oil filter B7292

[DarkMonster620]

OK alternatives for fuel filter OEM # 425 400 41B and 425 400 41A:

BOSCH 0 450 904 162
MAHLE/KNECHT KL- 145
MANN/HENGST MWK 44 / 66 300 59 940
ENDURALAST FF-859
BMW 16 142 325 859

Cost go from $12.00 to $22.00 plus S&H ...

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product_p/ff-859oe.htm

http://www.vallantinemotorworks.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2

[Skyshadow]

I had my Ignition relay go out and after order 2 wrong relays i thought i would make it easier for the others.
The OE relay should be something like BITRON(Italy) # PA66-GF30 and this is how you can find it to buy...

The Ducati part # is: 28740141A


Here are the other alternatives......

Radio shack 900-2391

Seimens/Tyco V23073/V23074

Bosch 0 332 207 307

Napa AR 634

Car Quest RY 620

Borg Warner R3223

Orman 68H-UA-0070003

Mopar 56006846

[SupraGuy74]

really can believe this hasn't been covered, but i have a 2001 Monster 900Sie. Fuel pump when out and at ducati they are around 258ish, part number is a BOSCH 0580453408. Went to my local auto parts store cross referenced the bosch number and got a pump for 60.00. The rubber surround on the pump is just a cover that slides off the pump and onto the new one.
Easy peezy japanesey. I ended up with a AIRTEK E8335

[Skyshadow]

Or upgrade to electric like this...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump/p2031586.jcwx?filterid=c2064u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel

I'm currently running it and it works fine.

[Howie]

Or upgrade to electric like this...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/micro-electric-fuel-pump/p2031586.jcwx?filterid=c2064u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel

I'm currently running it and it works fine.

His bike is fuel injected.  he needs a high pressure pump.

[Skyshadow]

^ OOh... touche

[koko64]

Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston Seal

Trying to find the slave cylinder piston seal for 2000+ models. It's the later type that runs the longer pushrod.
I have a homemade tool for removing the star cap to access the slave cylinder internals.
The part number is Brembo 0542 6399.

All the brake and clutch workshops I have tried do not have that seal, and it is not listed with the mainstream car part suppliers in Australia. It is an odd size between the sizes available down here.

If anyone can find a cross reference part number for it (and maybe even an upgraded seal), then the stock Ducati slave cylinder becomes rebuildable. Similar parts cost only a few dollars.

If I find it I will update.

[craig697]

Hey, had the voltage reg/rec go on my 696 dealers needs 3 weeks to get the part. I found this company in Quebec Can. rmstator.com sell electrics for bikes and toys good selection for duc's Mine was in stock and will be here by Fri.

[bond0087]

Cylinder head nut removal tool:

       There is a $12 (shipped) alternative to the Ducati tool (88713.2676 or the older one) that I discovered.  It's available from Summit Racing (and elsewhere, like from some Amazon vendors).  It's called a distributor clamp wrench 13mm & 15 mm made by Performance Tool, part number W1186.  It's hard to tell in the pictures online, but the top and bottom separate, so you have basically an L shaped tool that has a 12pt 15mm cutout on the bottom, and accepts a 3/8" drive ratchet / breaker bar / torque wrench on top.  Important note: Make sure to attach the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the tool when torquing, or your torque value will be wrong, unless you correct for it.

I just snapped a picture of it with a breaker bar attached in the orientation that you would attach a torque wrench.


 
PS: If you can't / don't want to attach it at 90 degrees, see here for information on how to correct  (thanks ducpainter for the link). Note that when correcting there, that's for if the tool is at 0 degrees, if it were at an angle, you'd need to do some trig before using that formula.

[NorDog]

http://www.mediafire.com/conv/16740ab4e3e495f42b207f8a79df771d5ded752bebbd89da6c82d2749cab82a74g.jpg[/img][/URL]
 
PS: If you can't / don't want to attach it at 90 degrees, see here for information on how to correct  (thanks ducpainter for the link). Note that when correcting there, that's for if the tool is at 0 degrees, if it were at an angle, you'd need to do some trig before using that formula.

Given that the tool in the photo has two different 90 degree bends in two different geometric planes I'm having a hard time following you here.

[bond0087]

Good point, my explanation was not very clear. (That's actually why I left off that information in my first post about this and just said to put the tool on like in my picture.)

Here's a quick drawing that I did to show what I mean (this is looking up from the below the breaker bar)


Does that make more sense?

[bond0087]

How to pull your alternator cover for free or for under a few dollars:

If you are going to take off your alternator cover (or stator cover, whatever you want to call it) , you need a tool to pull the cover off of the engine.  If you were to pry along the edges, it would probably never seal again.  There is a special tool from Ducati for removing the cover, or you could buy an aftermarket version for roughly $25-$40 I think.  Alternatively, you could use a regular puller, for example a timing gear puller.

Autozone stocks a timing gear puller for $15, part brand/number OEM 27009. The great thing about this tool is that it is one of Autozone's loan-a-tools, so you can borrow it for free. After that, you just need to get a pair of M6 (I think.. it could be M5, I would check first) bolts that thread into the alternator cover where the inspection cover comes off.  You'll probably need some washers also, unless you can find a pair of M6 flange head bolts easily. You really don't need to even buy those, though, because if you're taking the cover off, you probably already have a wealth of removed fasteners that will work sitting around. Just take those and some washers, use your rented puller, and return it to Autozone afterwards for a full refund of your deposit.



 Just to be clear, the bolts go through the slots on either side of the tool, with washers in between the bolt head and the tool, because the slot may be wider than the bolt head. The bolts are then threaded into the inspection cover holes, and then the middle part is turned until it makes contact with the shaft, then turned some more in order to pull the cover off.  If it is difficult to pull the cover, you've missed a bolt (or have a much lower definition of difficult than I do). I say this because I started turning it and it was difficult, and then I realized that I missed a bolt on the cover, behind the sprocket cover.

If you're like me, I know what you're thinking when you see that tool: "Well that looks fine for the most part, but is that sharp tip going to ruin something when I start pulling with it?" The answer is no; there is nothing for the tip to poke, so instead, the contact area is a ring right around the conical section, and the load is distributed evenly along the inner diameter of the shaft (at least on my M750 engine, I'd be surprised if it was different on other engines, but I would also double check if I were you).

Of course, there are other manufacturers of the same type of tool (Performance Tool W87010, for example), and probably other stores that will gladly rent you one, but for those in the US, I think Autozone will be the easiest.

Disclaimer: I didn't actually use this exact one, nor did I rent it from Autozone. I am 99.99% sure that this will work, though.  I had a seemingly identical tool sitting around from something else, so I used that, and then I saw that this one was available for rent at Autozone when I was looking for something else.

[T-Rent]

Anybody know of a inexpensive alternative for the passenger footrest sets for my s2r?  i'm not looking to spend $400+ on OEM...