Ride Report: Ecuador

[1.21GW]

Some of you know I went to Ecuador for an off-road vacation.  This is my report.  It's an abridged version (modified for DMFers) of what I'm posting on ADVrider (I trust there is no DMF policy against cross-posting across boards).  The full version (in-progress) can be found here:   http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1043115


Background is that I'm interesting in getting into ADVing and off-road stuff.  I have been for awhile, but it ain't easy in NYC when a closet costs $11tybn in rent and a place with a garage requires at least one kidney downpayment.  So it's been tough.  But I am resilient and found a company in Ecuador that rents bikes and gives paid tours.  I opted for the 4-day/3-night Quilotoa Loop guided trip, which takes you around the mountains and valleys of central Ecuador.

Trip was great and I recommend the company to anyone interested in exploring.  I will say that is really is not for beginners---the conditions and roads we covered were intense.  Luckily, I had done lots of reading on technique and even benefitted from a fellow DMFer letting me try his dirt bike in the city.  Very helpful in getting a feel for the suspension, standing while riding, using my feet to turn, etc.  Even had my first ever get-off:



Thanks, bud (you know who you are)!  Ok, time for the report...


...Oh, wait---one comment on the pictures.  So I bought a camera for the trip with the intention of taking lots of pictures that would rival even JM's colorful ride reports.  I decided to shoot in B&W JPEG because it's easier, and so I set up my camera to keep a RAW image as well that I could use for color when I got home and downloaded everything.  But being new to photography, I failed at that simple task and thus I only have B&W.  Lots of pretty colors in Ecuador that, sadly, will be absent from this report.  On the flip side, at least everything will be "moody".   

Enough chat.

[1.21GW]

Day 1: Quito to Alluriquin

Our group had five guys (including me) and one guide.  Everyone was cool and I told them I'd probably post a ride report somewhere, which they didn't mind.  However, since I generally like to keep a low online profile myself, I thought I'd be sensitive to that in others and so I'll use nicknames instead of real names of the other riders.

Dramatis Personae

Colorado - Brother of Illinois.  He ran a Harley dealership for many years before semi-retiring.  Spends his winters moto-ing all over the place.  Has done dirt biking, touring both domestically and overseas, and even ice racing!!
Illinois - Brother of Colorado.  Like his brother, lots of riding and travel experience. Smoked like a chimney.  Drank coffee with the same regularity and necessity that the rest of us breath air.
Cleveland - Been riding since he was a teenager.  Has a GS1200 at home, though had not really done any off-road with it.  Like me, was looking to get into more ADVing style two-wheel fun.  Tough guy, too, as you will see.
Atlanta - Ducatista (M1100) who did some MX as a kid but really has been a street rider his whole life.  Lots of track days and a skilled rider---in 4 days I saw him lose rear grip maybe twice.  He had a pronounced Georgia accent and all throughout the trip exuded "southern gentleman".
France - Our tireless and ever-diligent guide.  From Normandy but living in Ecuador 4-5 years.  He has ridden all over South America.


So at 7:30 we met at Ecuador Freedom Bike and the thumpers were all lined up nice and pretty.  That is France with the mop haircut putting some final touches on one of the bikes.



Here is my horse: a Husky TE630.  The other riders were on DR650s, except Cleveland who wanted to ride a GS650 since he had a 1200 at home.  France chose a KLR650, as his personal bike is also a KLR.  I picked the Husky because I was seriously considering getting one (that, or a TR650) in the next 12 months or so.  I saw this as an opportunity for a thorough test ride.



After packing our panniers and getting a brief intro lecture, we were off.  We spent about 20-30 minutes getting out of the city onto half-constructed roads on the outskirts, and then right into dirt roads and tall green mountains.  The transition from city to nature was abrupt.  Here we parked for a moment to look back on Quito and have a brief farewell.



Here is the view we endured for the next hour.  On the hill in the foreground you can see tiered fish farms.  France said it was most likely trout or talapia, since those species were commonly farmed in the area.



With views like this, it was hard not to be distracted.  And we were.  Cleveland got a little wide in a turn and caught the mud ditch running along the road whereupon the bike bucked and slid all over the place.  He held on and almost recovered except that there was a BIG ditch in his path, which effectively stopped him and the bike dead.  He didn't go over the bars, though, but when he took of his helmet, there was quite a bit of blood.  Turns out, his head hit something on the front of his bike (windscreen? GPS mount? who knows?) and it caused the mouth guard section of his helmet to split his lip pretty bad.  We all agreed he needed stitches.  But he's a tough ol' bird, so he took it all in stride.



We got the bike out of the ditch, checked parts, France did a test ride for safety, and we all double and triple checked that Cleveland was alert and able to ride.  Check check check check.  Good to go.

The next hour or so was spent in some of the most beautiful country I've ever seen.  Sadly, no pics because we didn't stop.  I definitely need a goPro for my next trip!  Mountains and rivers and clouds and animals and waterfalls and rugged but charming houses every km or two.  There was a moment when I was riding on a relatively straight path and two horses were racing along the grass field next to us, keeping pace as if they wanted to join our posse.  It was like out of some weird dream sequence.  The only thing missing was a rainbow and Alessandra Ambrosio.

Eventually, though, it rained.  That statement could really apply to any part of the trip, because no matter how clear and sunny the day started, eventually it always rained.  One thing about Ecuador is that the geography, climate, and elevation each change so much and so often across its landmass, that a change in weather is never far off.  So after the drizzle turned into downpour, we stopped for a well-deserved break at the appropriately named Tienda La Isla (Island Store).  It was indeed an island oasis to us already weary travelers.



Some of us took the time to relax and stay dry...



...some had a much needed cup of coffee and cigarette...



...some took artsy photos with their new camera...



...and some reflected on the harsh start and the road ahead.



Speaking of the road ahead, it was pretty dang inviting.  Love those curves!



Eventually, we needed gas.  This station had a small collection of bikes and trikes(?).  Saw this killer eagle tank logo.  Bad ass!  I may need to employ DP to paint this on my next bike.





At some point, we needed to find some medical attention for Cleveland, which we did in a town called Alluriquin.



Ecuador has free healthcare: no paperwork, no ID, no charge.  Just walk in and get fixed up.  Heck of a system.  Meanwhile, the rest of us took the time to explore the area while Cleveland was mended.  We chatted with the locals who came to check out the six strangers disrupting their quiet neighborhood.



I killed some time by taking beauty shots of my bike.



Then went exploring the neighborhood.  Not but 50 yards from the medical center at the end of the street was this park:



Look at that!  It's a kids playground with a gorgeous natural river flowing right next to it and beautiful lush forests all around.  Sure, there were a slide and some swings.



But there was also a gorgeous natural river flowing through it!



I would have had so much fun playing in that if I were a kid.  Illinois, an amateur fisherman, took the moment to contemplate the river's potential as a fishing spot.  Or maybe he was just looking for another cup of coffee.



Oh, and check this out: they built a concrete wall encompassing part of the river.  From where I took this picture, there was a gap that allowed the river to flow through.  All they needed to do was plug the gap and the river would fill up to the walls and create an pool.  Simple engineering and pretty cool idea.



Once all stitches were applied, we sought out a much needed lunch.  This place had a rice and meat combo that was delicious.  Sorry, no pics.  I was too busy stuffing my mouth.



From here we were well behind schedule due to the accident and the medical stop, so we had to book it to make it to the hotel by dark.  Not sure we'll make it...

[koko64]

This is great. Thanks man.
Cheers.

[Grampa]

neato

[ungeheuer]

Loving this 

You're doing some of my bucket list right there.

Thanks for posting, bloody great....

Big fat stonkin' bookmark..... can't wait for the next installment 

[lazylightnin717]

Really cool thread my friend   

[Speeddog]

 

[Howie]

Love the black and white photos.  Quite an adventure, congrats to you   I will check out your ADV Rider post.

[bob795]

  Love it. Can't wait to read the rest of the adventure. 

[DarkMonster620]

Awesome . . .  sadly the Panama tour had to be cancelled ... Next time

[1.21GW]

Day 1: Alluriquin to Sigchos

So we got back on the road with a full belly.  This was the terrain: hilly dirt roads weaving through wet forests with the occasional stunning waterfall.





Eventually, we began climbing up the mountains and into the cloud forest, so the air was wet and visibility was low.  It was actually very quiet and peaceful riding, and the views (to the extent I could see them) reminded me of the rolling farmlands of central PA & northern MD.  We stopped for a break in a small mountain town.  You can see how foggy it was:



We hung with the locals.



And some of them came up to introduce themselves.  Like this guy who really just wanted a vigorous head rub.  Colorado happily obliged.



Sorry little one, if I could I'd adopt you.



Our tumultuous start to the day put us behind schedule and we were forced to ride well past sundown.  The next 2 hours was an ascent in the clouds along a windy dirt road well lit by a full moon.  We ultimately made it over the peak of the mountain and in the cloudless valley below we saw the lights of a small city.  The site of our destination provided a second wind and we picked up the pace down the mountain, so much so that I boiled the hydraulic fluid in my rear brake from overuse and had to rely solely on the front for the last half hour of our descent.  A quick stop in town for some medical supplies and then off to our hotel on the outskirts.  Here is the only pic I took in the dark---a garbage can.  Don't know why I took it but I don't have any images of the beautiful dark mountain night, so it'll have to do.



3 km outside of town was our respite: Hosteria San Jose.



Hosteria San Jose is one of a handful a haciendas on 1400 hectares piece of property owned by a local from Sigchos who made his fortune as a businessman in Quito.  San Jose was opened in 2012 as the only hotel on the property.  It has a nice old spanish look, no?



...and a beautiful courtyard...



...and a well-manicured garden entrance, complete with snow-capped mountains...



...and of course, alpacas.



They looked a little guilty to me, like I was catching them in the middle of some nefarious act.  I especially don't trust that guy on the right.



And what hacienda would be complete without a dog?  Actually, they had two.  This guy's name was Gringo and this picture is highly misleading since he spent pretty much our entire visit diligently pursue butt rubs from all of us.



This girl got jealous every time you pet Gringo and would butt in to steal attention.



The estate has farm lands and tons of cattle.  There are some 800 cattle on the whole property, including 87 on the San Jose portion of the estate.



The wood for the house all came forests on the property.  Pretty cool.  And the inside was nicely decorated with an old hacienda look.  Things like fake game trophies...



...old timey guns...



...and an old fashioned camera...



...and a collection of old keys.  Very cool.



They fed us a warm and hearty meal and we reminisced over our eventful first day.  France shared some Pajaro Azul---a local liquor made from sugar cane that has a slight licorice taste.  Me gusta!   Not much hanging out as everyone was exhausted.  Except me.  I relaxed in the jacuzzi and took a dip in the pool before giving my muscles rejuvenating 20 minute steam in the sauna.  Yes, the place had an ample jacuzzi, pool, and sauna.




Time for bed.  Things learned on Day 1:
- When losing traction on dirt, increase throttle.
- Free heathcare is pretty awesome.
- Alpacas have something to hide.

Oh, and to end here is a handy chart to help tell the difference between alpacas and llamas.  Interesting..."can learn tricks"??

[1.21GW]

Loving this 

You're doing some of my bucket list right there.

Thanks for posting, bloody great....

Big fat stonkin' bookmark..... can't wait for the next installment 

Oh, Ung---we need to talk DR650.  I think I'm in the market for one but want some expert advice.  I'm reading through the DS thread here and may post some questions.  Be on the lookout.

[ungeheuer]

PM sent 

[Monsterlover]

Awesome!

[1.21GW]

Day 2: Sigchos to Angamarca

After a solid night's sleep and a full breakfast that included some kind of smoothly-like milky white fruit drink that was delicious (dang, I need to write down these names next time), we said our goodbyes and prepared for another long day on the road.  This is the dueña of Hosteria San Jose.  Really sweet and friendly woman.



And of course the pups wouldn't let us leave without providing some affection.



This color shot was taken by France: the Midnight Cowboys on a slightly older mode of transportation.  France had taken to calling our group that because, as you'll see, we kept arriving at our destinations after dark.



First stop that day was a tour of a cabinetmaker shop and local school founded by a priest.  To get there, we had to make it past grueling views like these.





Sigh.  How were we going to survive??  

In this one there is a Quechuan woman milking the cow on the left.  Nice day for milking, if I might say so myself.



We pulled over to soak it all in.



This shot makes me think of an astronaut in some sci-fi film exploring a new world, which was in some way analogous to our adventure.



Oh, and this is someone's backyard.  I mean really.    If this were my view when drying clothes I'd do laundry every day and twice on Sundays!



We arrived at our location: a school started by a priest named Don Bosco.  That is his picture graffiti'd on the house.



We were greeted by a few dogs, one of which was a St. Bernard who was tied up.  Why he was tied up, we asked.  Too aggressive?  Nope, tied up because we was too FRIENDLY.  He wanted to jump on everyone, which at his size, was an issue.  A few people were knocked down by his aggressive love.  Here is Cleveland getting smothered.



He has a smaller (that is relative of course, St. Bernard's are all big) sister.  And there was this guy, who was as furry as the others were big.



So Don Bosco created this place decades ago to help the community.  It had a school to educate local kids and he also built a furniture workshop with the intention that kids could learn real technical skills that could be used for a career.  At its high point, it had 30-40 people working in the shop.  The school has since closed and the shop is no longer filled with kids but instead employs 5-7 adults making high end custom furniture.  Here is our enthusiastic host leading us to the shop.



And here is one of the cabinetmakers putting the finishing touches on a chair.





The final product looks like this:



The lines across the wood are tiny scallops done by a small handplane. As a former woodworker myself (my first job after college was working for Taylor Guitars on acoustic bodies), I really love the look and smell of a good woodshop.  This bag of shavings was coincidentally (and appropriately) heart-shaped; I saw that as a reflection of the care these guys put into their craft.



The school football team was pretty good, apparently, when it existed.  A collection of trophies from its glory days.



Here is the football field where they won those trophies.  Another spectacular backdrop.



Back on the road again and off to Quilotoa Lake---the namesake of the Quilotoa Loop our 4-day trip was traversing.  We hit some newly laid tarmac.  Ecuador is growing fast and part of the process, as with any growing country, is investing in infrastructure.  So we came across a lot of half-finished roads in our four days, showing that the country really is modernizing quickly.  The particular patch of pavement from the workshop to the lake was AWESOME.  Literally the best 30-40 minutes of street I've ever ridden.  Curvy as a 50's pinup model and the sharpest curves were banked like a Nascar track.  They were build for riding on two wheels!    The problem was the wind.  It was very very very windy.  So much so that coming around one turn I cleared the corner and was immediately hit by a 40-50 mph gust that threw me back and send my suspension in a crazy wobble that almost took me down.  My experience was not unique, as many of the other riders shared similar tales when we reached our next stop.  Anyway, here is a moment we paused to snap a picture of the valley.  



And down below there was a gnarly looking dirt road through the hills.  Looks fun!



Eventually, we pulled off onto a sandy loom stretch and parked at its terminus...



...walked past a house with some chickens and ducks...



...down a narrow path...



...looked down...



...and BOOM!  A gorgeous crate lake.  The water was a beautiful turquoise (google "quilotoa lake" and you'll see!).  



There is a 6 km trail along the perimeter that would have been fun (and windy) to hike, but we had miles to go before we sleep, so we got back on the road.  Not before I snapped a pic of my horse.  Gathering a little dirt I see!



We then did some more asphalt through a pretty flat valley.  It reminded me a lot of Napa Valley, for those who have been: flat as a board but surrounded by mountains all around.  Very open with wide expensive views and (almost) straight roads, but there really are no straight lines in Ecuador, so...

We had to stop for gas.  Our gas attendant had on this shirt, so I asked if I could take a picture.  Reminded me that no matter where you are in the world, home is never far away.  You'll also notice her hat.  Quechuans really like to wear these hats.  Interesting fact: the Panama hat is actually Ecuadorian in origin.  Somehow Panama got credit and the rest is history.  But for the record, Ecuadorians know a thing or two about stylish hats!



This guy wasn't much help.



But I could sympathize.  I mean, why work when it's beautiful and warm and sunny out.  Oh, and this was across the street from the gas station.  Literally, 30 ft across the street a giant hill/mountain of tiered beauty.  I could never get enough of this stuff!!