1995 M900 pros, cons and warnings

[GeneW]

I am looking at purchasing a well cared for 1995 M900.  After searching the forum it appears some of the issues may be the cylinder head studs, gas tank hinge, and the rear engine mounts. Also know about replacing the belts and valve setting intervals.  Any other input as to possible issues with this model?  Please don't give me a hard time about it being a carburetor model - I know I'm an old fart and I'm OK with that. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[koko64]

I have one and love it. (I have actually owned two). They are a lovely bike.

You covered many of the issues. If its well cared for then that's half the issues solved. Any mods to this potential bike?
Some potential issues arise more from engine mods that require accompanying mods to work well and maintain reliability. An example is high compression pistons requiring heavy duty engine studs and revised ignition (and premium fuel).

[Howie]

Not sure about the studs on the '95 model.  Shiny = bad though, and much better to change them before they break.  My old Monster never had a tank hinge issue, but it is a known problem.  Not leaking now?  Make sure you lift and support the tank evenly.  Avoid lifting with a full tank.  Have hinge reinforced by brazing if a leak develops or you ever need to paint/repair it.  Visually check the rear mount area of the case and check the torque on the mounting bolts.  Nichols bolts are a nice upgrade; http://nicholssportbikes.com/products/N10MMBOLTKIT_WOS.html

CARBURETORS    Couldn't resist.  You will be replacing the emulsion tubes (needle jets)  something like every 10 - 30K miles.  The sign will be running rich and poor fuel economy.  Unless you upgrade to FCRs.  I say ride it first, modify later.  As you can see from KoKo's post, a ton of good info is available on this board.

[koko64]

Our sponsors have the parts you need. CCW has Factory Pro needle jets/emulsion tubes that last longer than the oem brass type that wear oval very quickly as Howie mentioned.

My 95 had the nice shiny stainless looking type that snapped after compression was raised. I was told that my models studs were ok, but that advice was very wrong. You can buy the retrofit hi tensile oem type or APE studs from CCW. This mod has often been done by necessity at some stage so check. If a stud breaks you'll be in angst for sure and they often snap flush with the case as mine did. Took me a week to get it out. I recently changed studs on a 94 model with a 944 big bore hi comp kit. They didn't break but stretched and distorted causing a range of issues that required fixing.

[koko64]

These bikes can be hopped up, mildly, moderately or severely if you want. They have a great street motor with usable torque.
You got me going now.

[ducpainter]

Consider replacing the vacuum operated fuel valve with a manual unit.

They fail just about any way a unit like that could possibly fail. Some ways are nastier than others.

[Duck-Stew]

Consider replacing the vacuum operated fuel valve with a manual unit.

They fail just about any way a unit like that could possibly fail. Some ways are nastier than others.

'95 only has the manual rotating pet-cock already installed.

'93 & '94 didn't have one.
'96 - '01 had the vacuum operated unit that ducpainter is referencing.

[Speedbag]

Some days I wish I still had my '94. 

[MadDuck]

I'd still settle for my old hot-rodded '98. 

[koko64]

Hey GW, how did you go with it?