Wishing Big T good luck.

[Betty]

UPDATE No. 7 (Wed. 6th August)

More climbing up the mountain, where the last 300 metres with the bike took Trev 4 hours of really, really hard slog.

During the night at Camp 2 a relentless snow storm brought fears of being marooned there.  Plus both their high altitude porters became sick overnight.  Miraculously the storm stopped at 7am, so they set off down a mountain bathed in powder snow.  The sun came out at the top of the ice falls – light, shadows, reflections, colours, bringing the most amazingly spectacular part of the trip so far.  Theirs were the ONLY tracks on that whole, huge mountain…  with crampons or snow shoes, often knee deep in powder snow, with that edgy mix of exhilaration/trepidation.  Sinking down to the waist in a snow drift could just mean heading into a crevasse… so walking poles were heavily in use to avoid rather a shock.  At the bottom of the ice falls, there were also two huge crevasses to skirt around, then the last 1,000m of scree down to Base Camp.

Now 2 very welcome rest days - with more strategy discussion, this time at the really pointy end of the expedition.  Team is reduced to 7 and only one porter.  What now is sensible and achievable?  The original bike aim is outside of the realms of possibility now.  Yes, with 2 weeks of acclimatization it might have been more feasible for Trev. But certainly not now, given their tight timeline.  All part of the learning experience, says Trev.

So he still aims to have a spot of fun with the bike in the snow.  Says he’s feeling the best he’s ever felt on a mountain.  After an exhausting last week he had his best night’s sleep yet (6 hours) and he’s forcing himself to eat reasonably.  Their routines are now set up, clothing sorted (how many layers to wear), very prepared for the next goal of summitting, for which there are two alternatives for the last part:

–         overnight at Camp 2 again, then straight to the summit from there = a twenty!! hour day

–         or Camp 3ish and then summit, over 2 days.

His final message: a huge thanks for SMSes – they were a real boost.

Here’s to upwards on 8/8/08.

[Betty]

UPDATE No. 8 (Sat. 9th August)

In one of those amazing juxtapositions in life, there were a number of TVs being fired up, about to be launched into Olympic Opening Ceremony fever, and I was 5 minutes away from leaving for a black tie wedding (for which we've travelled to Melbourne), when Trev rang to transport us herel to Camp 1 of Muztagh Ata!

Needless to say, they're all suffering increasingly from the accumulation of such ongoing demands, but are buoyed up now by the excitement of summit day approaching…

If all goes to plan it will be:
To Camp 2 today, with a touch of final fun with the bike along the way.
Camp 3 tomorrow (Sunday).
Monday morning – an alpine start (3 or 4am) and head for the summit.
All the way back to Base Camp on Tuesday.

Trev crossed paths again with the Lithuanian (bike) guy.  He summitted last Sunday – his 5th attempt - so a big cyberspace yaaay for him!  He left at 8am; got to the summit at 5pm; stayed on the summit for 2 hours, and reached Camp 3 again at 10am next morning.  He had managed to ride his bike (didn't catch what altitude) but only for 10 metres, due to foggy conditions and deep snow.  On the final day, he was also with an Indian guy, who didn't manage to summit – he turned back at what transpired to be just 40 metres from the summit!!!  The mixed blessings of mountaineering.

Currently the weather is a bit finicky  - rain at Base Camp; snow and foggy mornings.  Trev had a frequent cough as he spoke; said that's normal altitude stuff for him.  Asked me to have a glass of superb red wine and some delicious food on his behalf.... I just had to oblige, and savoured it all the more, and hope it speeds him on his way... 

There's still a hell of a slog in front of them, he says... 
He greatly appreciates all the SMSes...
Hopefully the rain staying away from Beijing last night is a good omen for that region of the world...
All our VERY best wishes and hopes for him are out there in abundance...
And all our crossable body parts firmly into action...

[mattyvas]

Close but no cigar

The weather turned bad.  No-one summitted.  But Trev still has his fingers – a greater achievement than any summit, by my call!
 
When they reached Camp 2 the weather turned, with heavy wind and snow, -10 degrees; cleared at 8am enough for them to climb to Camp 3.
 
They managed their wakeup call at 3am this morning, to leave at 4.
It was -15 degrees INSIDE the tent, without the wind-chill factor.
All headed up the mountain.
There was soft snow, not frozen ice which would have helped.
The wind-chill factor was -20 degrees.
Within the first half hour Kane turned back; rest kept going.
Trev and Deb bailed out an hour later.  Both were suffering badly from the cold – Trev’s fingers and Deb’s feet and hands.
In the dark they made it back to Camp 3.  Aside from the gravity of the situation, sounds like they could have made a great Monty Python version of their attempts to remove crampons and climbing boots with no feeling in their fingers.  Trying to grab and untie Deb’s shoelaces a major undertaking…  Finally they got her in her sleeping bag with hands under her armpits and Trev trying to massage her feet from outside her sleeping bag – helped his fingers to some extent too, he said.  Next task – Trev to do the same in his tent.  Would have been impossible for him by himself, but fortunately already-returned-Kane was sharing his tent, so together they faced the same slow and tortuous routine.
 
2 hours later the rest of the team were also forced to return.  All massaged their hands and rolled into their sleeping bags till the sun came up – that warm, monumentally welcome sun.
 
They then decided to return to Base Camp today.  Trev rang from Camp 1, saying it’s been a really hard slog, but getting easier as they descend to breathe-easy land.  His fingers are still tingly and off-colour, but should be OK. 

Having had such impossible conditions, he now understands why it took the Lithuanian guy 5 attempts to summit.  [No, I didn’t ask him the inevitable question…  don’t want to know right now!!  Seems to me this business is a lottery – and how long since any of us won that??!]
 
So they’re all celebrating their great adventure – firstly with a shower (he says they do smell a bit after 4 days in the same clothes and rather a touch of exercise).
------------------------------------------------------------------------

[mattyvas]

Just thought I'd chime in as I have been getting the updates on Big T's journey.
I'm sure there will be a party and welcome back do from all involved when the group arrive home.
I think it would be great if we could gather the Monster crew together for an all pipe salute upon there arrival.

I know I'd like to hear that when I came home from such an adventure.

[Betty]

Back on the Karakoram Highway‏

Call last night from Trev in Kashgar (yep, the place headlining news last night: Kashgar Killings Spark Chinese Crackdown – 31 people killed in last 8 days of clashes with separatists).  Even the increased Chinese Security checks didn’t dampen his enthusiasm for his first shower for 2 weeks – only cold water, but still felt superb.

Mountain weather has continued to deteriorate, so they were glad to have left at the most appropriate time. 

He’s very much looking forward to sleeping in a bed again – no multiple squeezing into tent, no rocky base, no ice, and dry!!  Struck again by how much we take for granted (water on tap, flush toilets…).

Summit day, first time he couldn’t use his fingers, scared him – too close for comfort to permanent frost-bite damage.  Thumbs still tingly; will visit physio on return. 

Now for the (relatively) relaxing part…

[Betty]

UPDATE (Sun. 17th August)

from phone call to Sandy:

Enjoyed exploring Kashgar.  No English spoken, but the international currency of smiles still abundant.  Great contrast between the poorer elements - mud huts - in the old part of the city and thriving downtown area with usual statue of Mao; all alive with Olympic propaganda.  Huge underground shopping mall spanning 2 or 3 city blocks, with each area having one particular speciality – clothes, shoes, white goods, food.  Police absolutely everywhere.  But free movement and no issues at all for Trev's group.  This surprised an Italian journalist they met, who was in K to report on the unrest.  The journalist had to register, and his every move was followed closely.  One of the World Ex guides for the climb even needed a passport to travel in his own country (since he was the wrong brand – Oigur, not Han Chinese).

Drove back from Kashgar past Muztagh Ata turnoff, for pickup of their climbing gear.  Still raining heavily.  All SOO glad they were off the mountain.

Border crossing back into Pakistan – more military, more heavily armed.  Even though the group were leaving China, it was the same old routine – completely unload the bus (yep, the 32 duffel bags again), xray all, passport checks.  Then military person in front and behind the convoy to the next border checkpoint.  Thankfully the snow and extreme cold was enough disincentive for the patrol to limit themselves here to scrutinizing bus permits only. 

Pakistan very different vibe.  Immigation officials much less regimented; smiling and friendly.  Sadly the roads no longer Chinese quality (90km/hr ave), but more like glorified goat tracks (30km/hr ave), though gave benefits of being less busy and seeing more of that very beautiful region along the way.  Karimabad hotel wonderful view over the valley and the old fort.

Round two of belly bug has commenced; Trev avoided it so far. 

He has a haemorrhage in one eye, not painful, but a bit of a mystery.   

2 more days on the Karakorem Highway then explore Islamabad.

[mattyvas]

He’s now in full-on relaxed mode (well, now that his second attack of the local bug is over and his eye is improving).
Loved the tour of the 700 year old fort in Karimabad (and associated history of Pakistan princes/ princesses/British era). 
Their high-altitude porter also had them all around for a meal to his house – before climbing his duties were as cook, so rather a treat for them all.
The 2 days on the Karakoram highway suffered this time from all the rain in the region – mudslides everywhere; no time for them to be cleared; some drying out meant they could just manage to forge a “road” over the top of them.  This meant looong days over 1,200km at an average of 35-40km/hr.
Islamabad again – their obvious destination, since that is now the region of the world headlining our news…
HOT shower this time with real soap and real shampoo – doesn’t come much better than that! 
Well it would, says Trev, with a cheese sandwich followed by a steak and spuds… and no Chinese food for quite a while…

Rounding off with local sites - Rarapindi (old Islamabad), huge Sunday market near the Presidential palace (what, no Musharraf moseying by?!), carpet shops.
He’ll enjoy this but is also very much looking forward to coming home again.

He’s promised a stunning selection of pics on the web relatively soon.  He’s most excited about seeing them in laptop screen size rather than just camera screen – who wouldn’t be?? 
Will be superb to put visuals to these brief bursts from the satellite phone. 

Add one to Oz’s gold medal count – one to Guy for holding together through all this!!  (Now where is that ball and chain for Trev’s leg again?)

[craigo]

I wonder if DMF is blocked by the Chinese government for promoting ducati hooliganism or something.

This is an very.cool.story to read updates on, I can't wait to see some pics!

[mattyvas]

I'm sure we'll be invited to the slide night when Big T gets back.

[Big T]

Hey All

I'm Back..........
Had a bloody great time despite a few moments of doubt but you get that. Just in the process of downloading all my 2,188 pics and video. Will post a link once I have done a bit of a sort and then post. And once the slide show is done you all are invite to my place for a viewing........ 

And must say the Canon G9 performed above and beyond all expectations. Operated in some of the most harsh conditions nature could throw at it (from -20C to plus 45C) and if anybody is looking for an all round great cam you won't do better. Just wait till you see my pics.... 

So now time to catchup on all the posts and get back on the Monster purely as part of my recovery... of course...

Ooohh and Super I bought you a present.....

I'll be at Mecca's Saturday.. Weather permitting of course..... 

Big (Great to be home) T      [moto]

[goldFiSh]

welcome back trev you bloody legend 

not sure who will be at Mecca on Sat, I might make a brief appearance to collect come beans. when are you thinking about rocking up?

[mattyvas]

Hi Big T,

     Glad to hear you are back, as you can see we've all been kept up date with your amazing trip.
Will pop in then Saturday morning to say G'day then, rain aside.

cheers
Matty....

Glad the G9 did well for you, they are a great little camera.

[Dockstrada]

Hey Trev,

Welcome back, the board hasn’t been the same with out you, Sounds like you crossed some tough moments during you journey, which most of us would have folded under the strain. You adventure was beyond mine and any other human I know.

Well done Trev 

I wish i was like you

[Super T.I.B]

WOOHOO!

Welcome back T. 

Now don't you go bragging about what you did/how you did it/who you did it with because you will bring he who must not be named out of the woodwork.

[Big T]

Now don't you go bragging about what you did/how you did it/who you did it with because you will bring he who must not be named out of the woodwork.

I shall let my pics do the talking........ Then you know who can go suck my exhaust fumes...... 

not sure who will be at Mecca on Sat, I might make a brief appearance to collect come beans. when are you thinking about rocking up?

Shall be at Mecca's from about 11:00am ish onwards for a Chai and catchup with who ever can make it.....