How to : install chain and sprockets on S4R (and other SSSA Monsters)

[S21FOLGORE]

How to : install chain and sprockets on S4R / S2R (and other SSSA Monsters)

Introduction
Well, to be honest, chain & sprockets installation is pretty straight forward and intuitive, you probably really wouldn’t need how-to tutorials.
That said, there’s always a first timer, there may be people who want to do but kinda got intimidated by the mental image of all the work involved and tools needed. (Also, being a Single Sided Swing Armed bike, some people automatically think it’s not a DIY job on these bikes.)
So, ... I’m going to do this tutorial in a little bit different way. (I’m writing this for mainly for newbies, for the people who are attempting their first chain and sprocket kit installation.)
I’ll show how the work is done first, then, will talk about the tools and tips second. (If this is your first time, most probably you will have to buy some tools, such as chain breaker and chain press / riveter, and maybe torque wrenches ...)

Oh, one more thing. In case anyone is wondering, you can do chain & sprockets change on the drive way, in the parking lot, as long as you have flat, level surface. You don’t have to have a garage. (But, start early so that you have enough time left to finish everything and clean up, before sun goes down and gets dark.)

How to

#1 Prop up the bike on the stand, WITHOUT the helper
To do the chain and sprocket work, the stand must be on the right hand side of the bike.
You can put the bike up on the stand all by yourself. You don’t need a helper.
If you have never done it before, you may get nervous. But, with some preparation, it can be done without scaring yourself.



Tips
Put rubber hand on the front brake lever.
Put a piece of 2x4 (2x8 is better) under the side stand. (So that the bike does not lean that much.)
(I’m only 5’ 5” , 125 lb with clothes on. If I can do it, anybody can do it.)


#2 Front sprocket screws removal
Remove the sprocket cover.
Put the bike into 1st gear.
Undo two sprocket retaining bolts, and remove them.

Then, move on to the rear wheel.



I explained a little bit about the tools for rear wheel removal here. (about the impact wrench and the socket.)
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71530.0

#3 Break and remove the old chain
You will need a chain breaker. {*1}

First, you will need to grind the riveted pin head.
A lot of people say to use grinder / dremel (motor tool). That’s fine if you already have them. But, if you don’t have them, and / or working in the parking lot / drive way, you can use a file. Yes, a hand tool can be used, and it doesn’t take that much time to grind off the pin head. (And you don’t have to grind the pin head down completely. Look at the video.)
Read the instruction of the tool that you bought, and break the chain.
Pull the chain out.



{*1} We will talk about chain tools in the later part.

#4 Fitting a new front sprocket

Remove the front sprocket from the countershaft. (Remember which side of the sprocket is facing  outward.)



Now is the good time to clean up the area.
You can use WD-40 and / or chain cleaner, with old tooth brush, chain grunge brush, etc.

Monster S4R Chain & Sprocket part4

When it looks like this,


you’re done with the cleaning. Now, you can fit the front sprocket, then retainer plate (Ducati manual call it sprocket stop plate). The plate has rounded edge on one side. The rounded edge should be facing the sprocket.
Fit the plate on the countershaft, move it over on the groove, then turn it a little bit so that the holes on the retainer plate and the threaded holes on the sprocket match.
Clean the screws thread (with brass wire brush and parts cleaner), then apply thread locker (blue).
Use torque wrench {*2}, tighten the screws to
6 N-m ( 53 in-lb. )

{*2} will talk about torque wrench later.

<to be continued ...>

[S21FOLGORE]

Monster S4R Chain &amp; Sprocket change part5


#5 Fitting a new rear sprocket

Remove the washer, and take the sprocket with the flange out of the bike. (They will come out together.)
Remove the spacer.

Slide the hub (with cush drive bushings) out from the sprocket. If it doesn’t slide out easily, you may need to tap it with soft faced hammer.



Check the condition of the cush drive bushes. If you see any damage, I’m afraid you’d have to stop now, and you will have to order the new cush drive set.
(Waiting sucks. To avoid the situation like this, I’d recommend to check the “visible part”  of the cush drives (you can see part of them) before cutting the chain and taking off the sprocket. If you have any doubt, just order a new set.

If your cush drive bushes are OK, you can just fit the new sprocket on the flange.

I did not go quick change carrier rout. If you are having trouble deciding whether to go quick change carrier or not,
here are a couple of things to consider.

If you are going to put A LOT of miles on your Monster, it is probably better to go quick change set up.
On the other hand, if your bike gets less than, say, 5,000 miles a year, the next time you’ll change the sprocket is at least 3 years from now. Do you think you’ll still have your Monster ? Even so, isn’t it better to spend that money on something else?
Moreover, if you buy impact wrench, to change the one piece sprocket isn’t really time consuming. Actually, it may be quicker to change one piece sprocket (slide out the old one, slip on the new one) than dealing with 5 bolts on quick change carrier. (The only real advantage of quick change set up is that you don’t have to remove wheel nut & flange. And the cost of the replacement sprocket.)
 
Worried about infamous cush drive coming out horror story ?
Stealth from Supersprox has small ridge to prevent this. Also, I didn’t measure the weight, but it’s noticeably lighter than the stock one. So I’m pretty happy with it.

[xsephirot]

I just want to point out that in step 3, you can just use the normal rivet tool/chain breaker and push out the pin on any link you want except the riveted piece. This is the assumption that since you are changing to new sprockets, you will putting on a new chain anyways. It saves a big hassle of having to dremel/grind.

[NAKID]

I just want to point out that in step 3, you can just use the normal rivet tool/chain breaker and push out the pin on any link you want except the riveted piece. This is the assumption that since you are changing to new sprockets, you will putting on a new chain anyways. It saves a big hassle of having to dremel/grind.

Agreed. I have never filed anything down before breaking a chain.

[S21FOLGORE]

(So, while editing the video, I found out that  the entire sequence of rear sprocket change was missing.
Apparently, I forgot to turn on the camera ...)

Anyhow, all my cush drive bushes were fine, so I reused them. (I will probably change them at the next chain / sprocket change, though.)

My old (stock) sprocket came out very easily. I could literally just slide it out from the flange. On the other hand, the new Stealth sprocket was tight, so that I had to tap it with a plastic-tip hammer.

Before fitting a new rear sprocket, clean the area (around eccentric hub, swing arm).




#6 Fitting new chain

If you are going to go “non-stock” gearing, how do you figure out the needed chain links?
Of course you can calculate using something like this
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/chainlength.html

but, to be honest, you really don’t have to.

Just put a new chain over the set of new sprockets you’ve just installed, then you will automatically know where to cut the chain.
Doing this way, you can eliminate the possibility of “ Oh, s&%t ! I cut the chain one link too short ! “.

You may want to loosen the two pinch bolts on the swing arm, and rotate the eccentric hub slightly forward, to make things easier. You don’t have to move eccentric hub all the way, just a little bit is enough.



Despite the comment from NAKID and xsephirot, I still recommend grinding off the pin head, IF you care about your tools.
Grinding off takes less than 5 min. with file, less than a minute with dremel, and it significantly reduces the load on the tool (pin). Your tool will last much longer.
(It is, kind of like wearing hearing protection when riding a motorcycle. While there are many riders who claim they’ve never bothered wearing ear plugs and they have no problem at all, if you want to enjoy your hearing ability for long time, it is better to wear them.
Also, before I got S4R, I was heavily into air cooled Kawasaki inline fours, which run 630 chain. (I usually converted them to 530, though.) You won’t be able to break 630 chain without grinding off the pinhead first. )

Monster S4R chain and sprocket change part6

The video is lacking the part of fitting master link side plate.
Check from the top of the chain how far you pressed it in. You don’t want to overdo it.





Also, I’m pretty sure you already know this, but the video shows only one side of the pin riveted. You need to rivet the other one , too.

[S21FOLGORE]

#7 Tightening rear wheel nut, adjusting chain free play

Monster S4R chain and sprocket change part7

Check and adjust your chain tension.
Tighten two pinch bolts on the swing arm.
Use torque wrench, tighten them to 33 N-m (24 ft-lb.) in 1-2-1 sequence.
(The manual says apply “Grease B”.)

Clean the thread of wheel shaft, apply “Grease B”.
Fit the washer, wheel nut. Hand tighten the nut.
Use torque wrench, tighten the nut to
156 N-m (115 ft-lb.).

The rear wheel nut has a safety clip. After tightening the nut to the specified torque, if the hole on the nut does not match one of the holes on the wheel shaft, turn the nut slowly CW ( to the direction to tighten),    NEVER TURN the nut to CCW ( the direction to loosen the nut) in order to align the holes.
Be careful which way to put a clip on. Put the clip on with the bent end facing toward the wheel.

(Grease B is molybdenum disulfide grease, any CV joint grease will do fine. I use this one.)

[S21FOLGORE]

Zen and the art of motorcycle tool shopping guide

Now, let me tell you why I am writing this tutorial for the beginner.
We, as motorcycle enthusiasts, talk about “personalizing” our motorcycles all the time.
And I strongly believe changing the final drive ratio should be considered as a part of
“personalizing” , “customizing” rather than “replacing the consumable items”.

Changing the final drive ratio is a great way to tailor your Monster to your particular riding style and requirement.
Stock gearing, just like stock suspension set up, is a world of compromise.
It is decided to work as many riders as possible in a variety of situations.
(And sometimes, for meeting the noise regulation, too.)

Changing the final drive ratio changes the way your Monster feels to you.
And if you do it by yourself, it will change the way you feel about your Monster even more.

So, here’s the tool shopping guide for those who don’t own them already.

#1 Chain tool

The one I used in this tutorial is
Motion Pro PBR chain tool.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0470/

They are usually sold a little less than $80

http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/08-0470/Chain-Sprocket/08-0470.html

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-pbr-chain-tool

Someone else’s demo video of Motion Pro PBR chain tool



I’d recommend this one, if you can afford $80.
Comes with everything you will need (including an extra pin), comes with nice plastic storage case, and it works.

The cheaper alternative is,

Harbor Freight chain tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html

The tool works in the same way as Motion Pro tool.
It is $15. Consider this as a disposable item. (if you break the pin, throwaway the tool and buy another one.)
It gets surprisingly positive reviews in many different online forums.
(I have no personal experience with this particular tool, though.)

Demonstration video







And somewhere in between,
Stockton chain tool



http://www.cyclegear.com/STOCKTON-TOOL-COMPANY-Chain-Breaker-and-Rivet-Tool-Kit

When it’s on sale, it’s around $40.
Don’t buy this at regular price ($89.99), and don’t buy it from Amazon.

Personally, if I’m forced to cheap out, I’d go HF rather than Cycle Gear.

There are other style of chain breaker, such as this.


But, you will have to buy chain press and riveting tool separately. I really don’t see any advantage of getting this type of tool.

Summary
There are more tools. Both RK and D.I.D. make chain tool and they are nice, but you are looking at around $130 and up.
Nothing wrong buying them if you can find them and afford them.

My advice is just get Motion Pro PBR from our sponsor (Monsterparts) when you buy chain and sprocket, brake pad and such, and be done with it.
If $80 is too steep, and Harbor Freight store is in your area, get their tool. Just, don’t be surprised when the pin break off.

That said, #1 cause of the broken pin is incorrect positioning of the pin. You have to make sure that it is centered, and 90 degree to the side plate.
(#2 cause is turning the extractor pin too quickly. You should go slow at first.)

[S21FOLGORE]

#2 torque wrench



(from top to bottom : old Craftsman 3/8”dr. , old Craftsman 1/2”dr. , old S-K 3/8”dr., Snap-On interchangeable head 3/8” dr., Husky 1/2” dr., Snap-On electronic 1/4” and 3/8”
Those "old" ones are no longer available, (both S-K and Craftsman) but are good ones. If you have them, don't throw away. Just get them recalibrated, and you are good to go.)

Ok, let’s face it. You ARE going to spend some money here.
No, you don’t have to buy Snap-On. It’s not because you need to buy an expensive truck brand tool.
(Although, there’s one major advantage with purchasing truck brand tool. I will explain it later.)
It’s because you will need THREE different torque wrenches for this project.
(and it may be difficult to convince your spouse that you will need to buy not one but three torque wrenches for your motorcycle project...)

 Big 1/2” drive wrench for rear wheel nut. Range between 50 - 250 ft-lb.

You will need the one that covers up to 250 ft-lb.
Because the tightening torque for rear wheel nut on the right hand side is 130 ft-lb.
(And, if you are still reading this, sooner or later, you will do the clutch maintenance and the clutch drum nut tightening torque is 140 ft-lb.)
Now, what if you already have 1/2” drive torque wrench ( for your car’s lug nut, for instance) but it is only up to 150 ft-lb. ?
Can you use it ?
The answer is, yes, but, using it at 130-140 is kinda pushing the limit.
Let’s get into a little more detail.

Most spring loaded click type torque wrenches claim +/- 4% accuracy in the range of 20 to 100% full scale.
If you are tightening your wheel nut with the wrench set at 130 ft-lb., the torque you are applying may be anywhere between 124.8 and 135.2 ft-lb. If you do that with 140 ft-lb. setting, the actual torque may be between 134.4 and
145.6 ft-lb. That’s too close to the upper limit of the wrench.
And, there’s no guarantee that your torque wrench accuracy is actually with in +/- 4% range (unless it is calibrated recently). If it’s about 10 % off, you will permanently damage the wrench.

I’d recommend getting one with 50-250 ft-lb. range. Tell your wife / husband , boyfriend / girlfriend whatever, you are going to use it for tire rotation of your car(s).

Now, the question is, how much should you spend ? Which one to buy?

Here are some suggestions. These are budget torque wrenches that are still good buy.

Husky 1/2” torque wrench 50 - 250 ft-lb. $85




http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180

A word of caution.
The one I’m talking about is, the one made in USA, which is rebranded Gearwrench (which is also a rebranded Matco, all produced by Apex tool group ), that you could find at your local HD store up until just recently. Depending on the store location, you can probably still find them, but Home Depot is replacing this with made in China item. (The “new” made in China model has a handle with white “HUSKY” logo on it. )
IF you are interested in this particular wrench, don’t order online. Go to the local store and see if they still have US made ones in stock.

For the reference,
Matco $328
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRC250A/1-2-DRIVE-TORQUE-WRENCH/

Gearwrench $235
http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wrenches/gearwrench-85054-1-2-micrometer-torque-wrench-20-250-ft-lbs.html

I’m not a fan of Home Depot stuff. But this one is exception. It really is the same stuff as what Gearwrench sells at $235.
(And if you buy it from Matco tool truck, it's $328)
It comes with plastic blow-mold case. It comes with calibration certificate. (The torque wrench that does not come with calibration certificate is essentially just a toy.)
Locking ring is metal construction. Letters on the body are stamped, not laser-etched. (stamped is better.)
The handle is elastomers (fancy word for rubber) which is good for the purpose of this torque wrench.

The only thing I kinda dislike is the ratchet action. It has very crude feeling 36 teeth ratchet head. (Don’t get me wrong, it has no effect on the function as a torque wrench. And I like this wrench, especially at the price I paid.)

If you can not find this at the store, don’t cry. You can get Gearwrench version from tooltopia for $120.
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85054.aspx

Kobalt 1/2” torque wrench 50 - 250 ft-lb. $80

I don’t own this one, just a quick check at the store.
Comes with blow molded plastic case. Comes with calibration certificate.
The blue handle is not plastic, but anodized aluminum.
These torque wrenches are made in Taiwan.

This would be a good choice if your budget is under $100, and  / or you have to purchase locally.

Gearwrench 1/2” $ (Don’t pay list price $250 for this wrench. Shop around, you will find them as low as $108. Tooltopia almost always have them at $120.)

http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wrenches/gearwrench-85054-1-2-micrometer-torque-wrench-20-250-ft-lbs.html

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85054-2-Inch-Micrometer-Torque/dp/B000TDEFRM

http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85054.aspx

[S21FOLGORE]

... so, I really wouldn’t recommend spending more than $120 - 130 on 1/2” drive torque wrench.
(If you can afford, and willing to spend, that’s fine.)
It has somewhat more limited use, compare to 3/8” and 1/4” drive ... for motorcycles and cars anyway.
As long as you buy something that comes with calibration certificate and the wrench can be serviced in the future, that’s fine.

(What about the Harbor Freight torque wrench ?
You find a lot of positive review about them online. (But you also find a lot of negative comment as well.)
Well,there are a couple of reasons that I don’t recommend them.
First, their 1/2” drive one is 20 - 150 ft-lb. If you’re buying it only for the passenger car’s lug nut, it may be okay, but not for Ducati’s wheel nut, clutch drum nut, etc.
Second. This is going to be a throw away item once it gets damaged or goes out of serviceable accuracy. No one is going to recalibrate this (it will cost more than buying a new one). )

3/8” drive 20 - 100 ft-lb. range
 
This is the one you’d use the most. Front wheel nut, engine oil drain plug, oil mesh filter and cap, brake caliper mounting bolt, eccentric hub (chain adjuster) pinch bolt, etc, etc ... and, most probably, you will use this for your car oil change.
(In this project , chain and sprocket installation, you will need this for eccentric chain adjuster screws.)

So, don’t skimp on this one. My advice is, buy the best one you can afford, and but the one you like the most.
Here’s the list of the torque wrench in that range ( under 100 ft-lb., 135 N-m) that worth buying,  based on my totally personal (and pretty biased) opinion.

Husky 3/8” drive  20 - 100 ft-lb.  $75
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H3DTW/202916179

Based on my experience with the 1/2” dr. version, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy this one.
(I would have bought one if I hadn’t already had so many torque wrenches.)
 
Just like the 1/2” dr. version, this is a rebranded Gearwrench/ Matco torque wrench, with much lower price tag.

Gearwrench  $210
http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wrenches/gearwrench-85052-3-8-micrometer-torque-wrench-10-100-ft-lbs.html

Matco $303

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRB100/3-8-drive-micrometer-torque-wrench/

Unfortunately, just like 1/2” dr. ones, Home Depot is apparently replacing this one with the new model H3DTWA (made in China).
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-Click-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWA/205913996

(Now, I’m not bashing this new item just because of COO. Also, here at DMF, we don’t talk about politics, so we are not going to discuss about COO and tool brand, etc. The simple fact is, H3DTW IS the same wrench as the one you’d find in the Matco tool truck, for a lot less money. That makes this torque wrench really a good buy. Whereas H3DTWA is, simply put, unknown quality.)

Most of what I said about Husky 1/2” dr. torque wrench applies here also.
Calibration certificate
Storage case
Metal locking ring and elastomer handle
Crude and unsophisticated feel of ratchet head (36 teeth)

Over all, this is probably the best choice if you want to spend less than $100 and  / or if you have to purchase locally.

Gearwrench 85052 (the same torque wrench as Husky, it just more expensive).

That said, if you can find at around $100, it is still a good deal.
However, it seems they are out of stock at most of online tool stores.
Don’t buy it from Amazon.
Also, don’t buy if the price is around $110 or more. There are better choices at that price range.

If you are willing to spend something like $120, I’d recommend either

P I (Precision Instrument)
or
CDI
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c2fr100f.aspx

http://www.zoro.com/cdi-torque-products-torque-wrench-38dr-10-100-ft-lb-1002mfrmh/i/G3462496/

http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-18-1-145/cdi-micrometer-adj-torque-wrench-dual-scale-3-8-dr-5-75-ft-lbs.htm

I actually prefer 5 - 75 ft-lb. range, than more commonly available 10-100 ft-lb. ones.

My most used torque wrench is 5 - 75 ft-lb. (Snap-On QC2175 : 4th from the top in the first photo in the last post)







If you want interchangeable head ...
http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-18-1-808/cdi-micrometer-adj-torque-wrench-interchange-head-5-75-ft-lbs.htm

[S21FOLGORE]

1/4” dr. (or, can be 3/8” dr.), one that reads in “in-lb. (Inch - pound) Something like 30 - 200 in-lb.
For the chain and sprocket project, you will use this small torque wrench for the front sprocket retaining screw.
Other places you will use : spark plugs, brake and clutch line banjo bolt, clutch pressure spring, lower triple-tree clamp screws, front fork bottom screw, handle bar clamp screw, clutch spring screw, etc, and, you may need this for your car and other motorcycles, too.(such as valve cover screws, clutch cover for wet clutch bikes.)


Now, this one is a bit tricky.

Because, somehow, a lot of people are reluctant to spend money on the small torque wrench.
You want this torque wrench for low torque application (read small bolts & nuts).

Some people think “small” fasteners are not the important ones.

Some people say, they can go by “the feel” on small fasteners.

Some people want to spend money on bling parts (rather than on the tools).

The simple fact is, the small bolts & nuts are easier to strip than the larger ones.
And you don’t want that.

(Although, in this particular case, the front sprocket is steel, and easily replaceable, so it’s not as bad as , for example, over tightening the spark plug and strip the thread.)

So, here’s my advice.
Buy the best one you can afford.

“Again ? You just said that about 3/8” dr. torque wrench ! “
Yes, I did. And I know it sounds a lot of money to spend.
However, you don’t want to skimp on this one, too.
Later on,you will be gland that you’ve bought a quality tool.
(Cry once when you pay, and smile every time when you use that tool.)

Here are the examples of lower range torque wrenches.
Top is S-K, 25 - 250 in - lb. (3.61 - 29.03 N-m).  This one is actually  3/8” drive.
Bottom one is Snap-On 1-20 ft-lb. (12 - 240 in-lb. 1.36 - 27.12 N-m). This one is 1/4” drive.



The advantage of 1/4” drive ratchet head is its compactness. Take a look at the picture. Big difference, well, it is when you work in confined area.






On the other hand, if you already have a pretty good selection of 3/8” dr. socket but don’t have 1/4” dr. socket, you may want 3/8” drive ratchet head.

If you want to go 3/8” route, S-K torque wrench is still available (but in a different style. S-K has gone through some ownership change).
http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-75025-25-250-Inch/dp/B000I1URSQ

$142.42 for US made torque wrench that you can find a lot of use, not bad.

In the similar price range, You can have Precision Instrument 1/4” dr. 30 - 200 in-lb. $141.52 from tooltopia.
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-m1r200hx.aspx

Gearwrench 1/4” drive seems like still available through Amazon ... 30 - 200 in - lb. $110.33
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85050-Micrometer-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000NI9442

So, as you already guessed, it isn’t going to save any money to do the chian and sprocket replacement by yourself IF you try to buy everything at once.
Not only that, there’s parts availability issue also. (Things like Stealth sprocket can be backordered for quite some time.)
So, if you are reading this, and thinking to do the first sprocket and chain install, start searching AND buying the parts and tools earlier, little by little.

[slash3]

Thank you for all your work!
Question about refitting sprocket:
So after you remove the flange from the sprocket, if the cush bushes seem to be ok and dont need to be replaced, do you remove them and clean, and grease everything (how), and what do you grease when putting it all back together?  Do you remove the five nuts from the flange and do anything to clean them?

[S21FOLGORE]

You don't have to remove bolt / nut / cush drive from the flange, just for the cleaning purpose.
(You can, but there's no point unless you are going to replace them.)
When you remove the flange from the sprocket, you can clearly see everything.

If the cush drive dampers appear to be in good condition, you can just clean them while they are still attached to the flange.
(spray WD-40 on the rag and wipe them.)
I applied thin coat of grease on the outer sleeve of the cush drive.

[Boris]

Thanks for the great writeup. I have 2004 S4R Desmo and want to do the sprockets/chain change. At the 600 mile service call the dealer installed 14 tooth front sprocket and left the 42 tooth original in place. So the bike has more torque down low.

My question is this. I've read that by leaving the 15 tooth upfront and replacing the rear sprocket with bigger diameter is actually better due to the better clearance of the chain over the SSS. So how do I calculate the tooth number on the rear sprocket? Do you have a suggestion on the tooth number or is there a conversion tool similar to the ones where you can calculate tire size on different diameter rims? Thanks.

[Howie]

Two up in the rear will be a tad higher than what you have now, three a tad lower.

This will help you.
http://www.gearingcommander.com/

[S21FOLGORE]

In theory, yes.
In reality, it really doesn’t matter. (If you go, for example, 13T, then it does.)
The lifetime span of the chain and sprocket greatly depends on how it is maintained. (read how often they are cleaned.)
Keeping the stock gearing and not cleaning the chain and sprocket, then, that chain will not last as long as the one on 14T front sprocket but regularly cleaned.

Choosing the final drive ratio is kinda personal. Without knowing where you ride (mostly), what kind of riding you do, etc, it is difficult to make recommendation.

You put 14T front on at 600 mile service, so I assume you don’t have that much experience with stock gearing, correct?

When you go to your favorite twisty, do you feel like you are “in between the gears”? (or, you felt with stock gearing?)
(Like, you are constantly shifting between 2nd and 3rd, feeling like 2nd gear is too low, but 3rd is too tall. Or, it could be 1st and 2nd, if you ride a lot in the congested traffic and / or really tight corners.)
Then, I’d say lower the gearing a little bit. How much lower ? Well, you have to decide based on your “feel”.
And ,the only way to find out if it feels right is to test ride it. For a street bike / rider, it makes sense to do 14T front first, to see how you would like the lower gearing. (Front sprocket costs less than the rear, and it is easier to change. You have less damage if it turns out you don’t like the lowered gearing, you know, inexpensive experiment.)

As for the tooth number, what you have now is (in theory) not ideal. You have even number tooth on both sprockets, and the ratio is exactly 3:1.

If you like the way your bike behaves (gearing wise) now, and are planning to replace both sprocket and chain at the same time, I’d say, 15/44 (2.93 : 1).