Can I use heat shrink tubing for a wire repair in the crankcase of a 95 M900?

[ducandcover]

One of the wires that goes to the pick-up coils in the crankcase is broken. I hope to solder the wires back together and slide a heat shrink tube over the repair...
As this wire is bathed in engine oil (Mobil 1 Syn) , will the shrink tubing (rated up to 275F, 135C) last, or will it gum up the works (literally )?.
 I don't have a clue of what temperatures an air / oil cooled bike may produce. For that matter, will the solder hold up?  Or should I just go with a crimp connector?
Thanks in advance for any advice we all can learn from...
Rick.

[Howie]

Solder will hold up, assuming you get the wires clean enough.  Shrink wrap?  You would need to ask the manufacturer of the product you are using, I would want it to withstand temperatures of at least 400⁰, and needless to say, oil resistant.  Most shrink wrap is not made for the task.  Here is a good source:  http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/heat-shrink-crimp-splices.htm

[CDawg]

+1 on Howie's advice.
Home Depot also sells this rubber coating stuff.  In comes in a small metal jar with a brush attached to the lid.  You apply it like paint and it dries into the same/similar material as the rubber insulation on wires.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100119178&N=10000003+90373+501516

[Hedgehog]

One of the wires that goes to the pick-up coils in the crankcase is broken. I hope to solder the wires back together and slide a heat shrink tube over the repair...
As this wire is bathed in engine oil (Mobil 1 Syn) , will the shrink tubing (rated up to 275F, 135C) last, or will it gum up the works (literally )?.
 I don't have a clue of what temperatures an air / oil cooled bike may produce. For that matter, will the solder hold up?  Or should I just go with a crimp connector?
Thanks in advance for any advice we all can learn from...
Rick.

I did exactly this a number of years ago, after a pickup failed.  No problem.

[ducandcover]

Thanks for the info !  I think I'll for with the "rubberizing" treatment from Home Depot as the break is so close to the crankcase (and under the rubber seal)

[Hedgehog]

Thanks for the info !  I think I'll for with the "rubberizing" treatment from Home Depot as the break is so close to the crankcase (and under the rubber seal)

You can find the technical brochure for Liquid Tape here: http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation

You will note that it is only recommended up to 200F.  The inside of an engine is probably not a good application for this stuff. 

The tech specs for polyolefin (heat shrink) tubing is here: http://heatshrinktubing.net/content/view/18/32/

Note that it is recommended up to 135C which is 275F.  Normally your engine will run much cooler than 275F.

[Hedgehog]

To actually join the two broken wires together, consider using Radio Shack "Butt Connector" part number 64-3073 for 22-26 gauge wire.  You can crimp it if you insist, but I'd recommend that you take the metal part out, solder that, and use heat shrink tubing on it.

If the rubber seal leaks where the wire comes out of it, use 2 small black zip-ties on it, and that should stop the leak without messing up the looks.

[Ducnial]

If you you use the right kind of shrink tubing you stand a better chance. I'd recommend PTFE/Teflon shrink tubing, it good to 500°F  and beinf teflon nothing, not even hot motor oil willtouch it.    http://cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink-PTFE.htm   I'd do a double layer with progressively larger tubing and shrink the whole wire.  Conventioal heat shink tubing is simply polyethylene (read milk jug) thats been crosslinked using chemicals or radiation.  High temps >200°F will kill it quickly and hot motor oil will cause it to crack and become brittle even at low temps.  Probably wont mess up you motor but will surely short out and the bits will wind up in the sreen.