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Author Topic: Fairing stiffener post  (Read 10487 times)
stopintime
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« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2016, 04:50:13 PM »

Just throwing out ideas while we're waiting for the man  waytogo


https://traxxas.com/search?type=All&keyword=rod%20ends&items_per_page=40&page=2
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2016, 04:59:52 PM »

Just throwing out ideas while we're waiting for the man  waytogo


https://traxxas.com/search?type=All&keyword=rod%20ends&items_per_page=40&page=2
I think you're going in the wrong direction.

It needs to be waaaay better looking.

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« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2016, 10:49:35 PM »

A little more searching turned up this good effort by blalor.

Sadly, I'm too new to understand the humor of previous posts popcorn

My EZ pass is stuffed between the windscreen and the gauges.  This seems to stabilize the fairing quite well.
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stopintime
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« Reply #18 on: April 24, 2016, 01:34:08 AM »

I think you're going in the wrong direction.

It needs to be waaaay better looking.



Of course - that link shows us that very clearly  Cool
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stopintime
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« Reply #19 on: April 24, 2016, 12:08:14 PM »

I now have a lead on drawings for these.

If Monsterlover can do them, we're closer  coffee
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Eric@S2R8
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« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2016, 12:16:52 PM »

I now have a lead on drawings for these.

If Monsterlover can do them, we're closer  coffee
Wow! that's great.  applause

If that doesn't work, I've found that searching for a right angle ball joint produces some fittings that could work at the top mount. http://www.amazon.com/Strut-Thread-Socket-Bracket-Mount/dp/B00WI08IHW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U

Our top mount on the fairing has a 5mm (0.80mm pitch) button head x 15mm long. The bottom mount uses a 6mm (1.25 coarse pitch)  x 20mm long.  There’s about a 7” span between the screws.

I think a ball joint with the female end going to the fairing, and the male end screwing into a hollow threaded rod about 6 inches long, to either an eyelet, or another ball joint at the bottom end.

I'll wait to read of any better plans.
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« Reply #21 on: April 24, 2016, 01:33:21 PM »

Maybe a list of highly motivated buyers is in order.
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stopintime
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« Reply #22 on: April 24, 2016, 01:48:45 PM »

Maybe a list of highly motivated buyers is in order.

I'll ask him tomorrow and if he's interested/willing I'll put up a poll thread. (poll answers are cheap and means little, but it's a start)
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« Reply #23 on: April 25, 2016, 08:04:18 AM »

Someone send me drawings and I'll have a look. The stays in the first pic are killer

Kevin at southmorgan dot com
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stopintime
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« Reply #24 on: April 25, 2016, 08:06:35 AM »

Someone send me drawings and I'll have a look. The stays in the first pic are killer

Kevin at southmorgan dot com

Coming up  waytogo
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #25 on: April 25, 2016, 08:41:01 AM »

Have you sourced cf tube?

Who's going to assemble?

Jig for aligning the ends on the tube?
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


stopintime
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« Reply #26 on: April 25, 2016, 09:15:12 AM »

Have you sourced cf tube?

Who's going to assemble?

Jig for aligning the ends on the tube?

Carbon rod or tube, but maybe just as well aluminum?

Mine are broken, so not much use as templates. Maybe they could be a three piece design - put together when mounting and glue if desired.

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« Reply #27 on: April 25, 2016, 10:07:37 AM »

Did some digging.

CF tube is readily available as are red anodized rod ends (though I didn't see any that were *exactly* like what was in that first picture)

Personally, I think threaded aluminum or titanium or stainless would be cool.  At least in the event of a crash you could reuse the rod ends, replace the bent tie rods and be back in business.  Glued CF tube and your just screwed for reusing the ends.

But then again, I love the look of threaded rod with locknuts and rod ends.  Industrial Grin

Most of the threaded rod I found has a ton of thread exposed, which I don't like.  If it were my bike, I'd take some aluminum rod and thread each end RH/LH only a little extra beyond what I'd need to make any adjustments.  That way the majority of the rod is just a round rod vs exposed threads and it would look extra bad ass.

But that's just what *I* like.

I'll machine it however my customers want it.
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"The Vincent was like a bullet that went straight; the Ducati is like the magic bullet in Dallas that went sideways and hit JFK and the Governor of Texas at the same time."--HST    **"A man who works with his hands is a laborer.  A man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman.  A man who works with his hands, brains, and heart is an artist."  -Louis Nizer**
Eric@S2R8
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« Reply #28 on: April 25, 2016, 10:57:58 AM »

You guys are bad@ss!
 Cool
The nice thing about reverse threads and locknuts at each end is that it then becomes like your shifter -  you can fine-tune the length to make small adjustments in the fairing height.

Metal or carbon fiber rod, but with metal, you can use Loctite instead of glue.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #29 on: April 25, 2016, 11:03:57 AM »

I'm pretty sure Chris...Statler...had those on his S4RS. I think that's his bike in the pic.

I might be able to get a length for the rod from him so Kev could thread some rod. that would make it a DIY kit...which would be awesome.

Let me know if you guys want me to get in touch with him.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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