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Author Topic: Replacing steering head bearings '00 M750  (Read 3122 times)
bdfinally
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« on: June 14, 2016, 07:32:23 PM »

Trying to get my ducks in a row to do this job. Got a set of Speedymoto tapered bearings. A long drift and an iron pipe to beat the lower bearing back on the stem. I assume it's the inner race that I tap on? My question is what's the OEM ball bearing cage made of. Can I snip it apart with dykes, cut with a dremel, pry carefully with a chisel or do I need a puller?

Thanks in advance as always.
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« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2016, 07:44:42 PM »

OEM setup for '00 M750 (Gen1 frame) was tapered bearings.

Bearing cage is steel, cut it with good dykes or a dremel.

Then you'll need to get the old inner race off the stem.
I use an air-driven cutoff at ~45 degree angle to get most of the cut done, then a dremel with a cutoff to get the last little bit.
Don't cut into the stem or the triple.

Then a dull chisel in the cut slot and hammer to crack the inner race, then it'll slide off.

You can then use the cut inner race to protect the new bearing when you drive it on, so you don't fuxxor the new cage.

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« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2016, 07:46:52 PM »

highly recommend freezing the outer races, allows you to drop/gently drift them in before they thaw and expand. same goes for the steering stem, freeze this so the inner race can drop over the top easier.

as for removing - I upgraded to IMA triples at the time, so just tossed my stem rather having to cut/remove the old inner race. again, heat/cold may help due to different expansion rates of steel and aluminium.

I second using old races to help drift on new races. helps keep it proper square, and no damage to the new unit.

have fun!
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bdfinally
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« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2016, 07:59:13 PM »

That was quick, thanks guys. The other thing I found just looking at it was that set screw in the top triple. Just back the opposite fork stop out enough to be able to get a allen wrench in there or pull the ignition out of the way. I hate pulling the ignition, it's like proof that humans need 3 hands to get that sucka back together.
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« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2016, 08:14:56 PM »

I use a long allen driver, and lift the tank a bit as necessary to loosen the stem pinch bolt.
Usually I just remove the tank to reduce the chance of the profit margin going negative.

I've taken a FUBARed outer race, reduced the OD with a belt sander, and used that as an assist for driving the outer races into the frame.

Beware when driving/pressing/cutting/beating on bearing races, that they're on the brittle side, and can produce high velocity razor-sharp shrapnel.
Use safety glasses.
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« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2016, 04:06:28 PM »

I think I'm going to tackle this this long weekend. Couple of questions. Still have some fore and aft  support legs on either side to add and additional bracing on the inside. And does anyone see a glaring FU ready to happen if I use this method to support the bike? As always thanks in advance.



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« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2016, 05:13:59 PM »

You did a lot more than I would have. laughingdp

What could go wrong? Grin
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« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2016, 06:46:49 PM »

I think the first time I took the wheel off w/o a front stand I just chunked a piece of 4x4 under the horizontal cylinder to hold it up. With banging on stuff seemed like I needed a more better idea this time.
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« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2016, 09:33:14 PM »

I'd hack those verticals down about halfway and run that rod under the horizontal cylinder.
Or use jackstands.

What part of the bike is sitting on that rod now?
Looks like the ignition switch.....
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2016, 03:31:09 AM »

The rod settles against the 2 top frame rails where they meet the head stock. I thought of doing it under the horiz. but didn't know how hard I'd be banging on the races to free them from the frame & was kinda worried about the bouncy, bouncy.
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« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2016, 07:07:46 AM »

Here's a pic of it, SD. Ignition is circled



One of the thoughts in planning this was that it was going to left overnight on the sidewalk like this. I live in a restaurant/bar rich environment and even on a holiday w/e with most everyone out of town, there a drunk hardheads running around til 2 am.
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« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2016, 07:22:06 AM »

That looks fine.

I'd put a shop rag or something on that rod so it doesn't chip the paint on the frame.
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« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2016, 08:50:02 AM »

Yup, gonna slide a sleeve of water pipe insulation on it.
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« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2016, 10:57:56 AM »

Use some police crime scene tape around it if you're worried about drunks messing with your bike. Smiley

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« Reply #14 on: July 02, 2016, 11:04:50 AM »

I was more worried about a stumbling fratboy w/a head full going "wtf is holding that up?"
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