Waste of money .....

[Speeddog]

Stack may be taller, which is no big deal if it's working properly.
I'd try a 3mm thick spacer pill on the end of the pushrod that's easiest to access.

[MonsterHPD]

Stack may be taller, which is no big deal if it's working properly.
I'd try a 3mm thick spacer pill on the end of the pushrod that's easiest to access.

 

[MonsterHPD]

The M800 was originally bought as  bike for my wife, and sch thought the clutch was too heavy so i bought a slave for lighter actionm (turned ou to bea Yoyodye). Can´t say I noticed much difference at the time, but now I figured I´d put in the stock slave, just in case ... and it worked, the clutch action at the leer is now normal.

Cant´t really say I understand why this is so, but provided it works with the motor running and wheels turning (or not ...), that´s good enough for me now.

HAve a good weekend, all;
Torbjörn.

Edit:
After a test ride, I have to go back on this statement. It felt different, but it´s basically the same ..... but works fine so I´ll leave it at that for now.

[MonsterHPD]

Well,

by now I had hoped to have had a mapping and measuring session on the dyno, but that has not been possible yet. So for the time beeing, I have to rely on  seat-of-the-pants feeling, and back-to-back comparison in order to assess tuning results (good or bad).

In the best of cases, back-to-back testing is difficult, and a winter between the back-to-backs does not help. And seat-of-the-pants is notoriously unreliable anyay.

So, with about 100 km on the road, and an hour and a half on track, I can only establish that the motor is running well enough. I think it is running pretty strongly up to 8500 - 9000 rpm, and that there is no reason to use the rev limiter (fuel at 9200 ignition cut at 9300). It does feel nice and strong, pulling nicely from low revs until 8500  9000 rpm. 

Maybe I had hoped for a bit more top-end, but moderately tuned Duc 2V motors don´t really feel that much different; it´s sort of same-same, but more.  Sooner or later, the dyno will tell; reults will be reported.


     

[MonsterHPD]

Hello again.
A summer quite different from other summers has almost passed, I have done very little street riding, but quite a few more track days than I thought when I wrote the last instalment.
 
What has not yet happened is the dyno test, since I want to do it on the same dyno that has not been available yet. I hope now when the riding season is more or less over, maybe dyno season is about to start ….
So far, I´ve done 2060 km this summer, most of it on track. I use to zero the trip  meter before each track day (unless I forget it), and when doing so last time, I noticed the odometer just happened to b on a nice round number:

2020-08-16 08.23.22 by torbjörn bergström, on Flickr

Maybe  not so impressive for a 2003 MY bike, but life is not just motorcycles.

Anyway, in order to have some means of tracking speed etc, I swallowed deep and bought a laptimer with GPS, and I have been tracking true speed with it. It would have been even better if I´d done it last year so I´d have had some ”before” numbers, but you have to start somewhere.
I first tested it at a track called Mantorp Park. It´s a tricky track top-speed-wise, since the main straight is slightly uphill, and starts with a chicane. The 200m sign is just after the crest, and just touching the 9200 RPM limiter in 5th equalled 205 km/h on the GPS.

Since I was curious as to what it would do in 6th gear, I bought a track day at  the Anderstorp circuit, which has the longest main straight of any swedish track, and is generally a horsepower track. Exactly the place for an M800, and I did get it into 6th gear and hold it there for a while.
However, this straight also is not long enough for real top speed on an m800, but at least I did manage 210 km/h. A V4s Duc club mate said he saw 290 before braking …. It is a bit difficult these days on an m800, there are all sorts of Panigales and V4s in all speed groups, and the speed differential can sometimes be frightening.

So, on the good side, all I can say (still) is that the bike runs quite nicely, and that when I first rode it, I noticed a different note from under the tank compared to before.

On the maybe-not-so-good (?) side;  there is also a strange thing that I have not noticed before, so I assume it´s new:  There is a strange vibration, mainly in the footpegs, that appears to be engine load dependant. At steady speed at, say, 4000 rpm, it´s barely noticeable, but loading the motor slightly produces much more pronounced vibes, reduce the load slightly and it goes away. It´s also strange because it is a sort of resonant load, like going over consecutive, evenly spaced stretches  of rumble strip, with smooth streches between them.   I don´t know what it could be, but I´ll do some checking over the winter. Just not exactly sure what.

The M620 clutch has worked fine, and I have used 3 each of the standard springs, and of the old 750 springs. They are roughly the same free height, but the 50% stiffer 750 springs have thicker wire that bottomed out before the actuators did. One 1-mm washer between the clutch hub post and the spring ”hat” washer solved that, and the clutch has been working fine after that.  
   
This weekend I was supposed to do the 3 last track days of the summer (Friday again at the Mantorp Park circuit, and Saturday / Sunday at another, smaller  track with the Duc club), but a walk in the woods with the dog yesterday produced a belly landing that changed that plan:

received_324695448885219 by torbjörn bergström, on Flickr

So, I´ve sold the Friday to a friend, and I´ll see if I can trundle around the track with the Duc club, I have no idea what the hand will do. Colour and swellings have moved around the hand all day, only time will tell.

On a philosophical note; It really does not take much speed to do considerable damage, but you can also walk away from a high speed crash more or less unscathed, it´s really a matter of luck.
Anyway, since I was not on the bike, at least I have no repairs to make ….  

[koko64]

Glad you could do some track days at least before the injury. Heal up quick!

Looking forward to the dyno results. Regarding the resonance, the first thing I think of is to examine the chain and sprockets or a wheel bearing, but I'm only guessing.

[MonsterHPD]

Thanks

Turned out my little finger was broken, so my hand is now in a cast. Not much to complain about in times like these, and maybe a reminder to appreciate when things are just normal.

As for the vibrations, chain and sprockets were new last year, so I don´t think they are the cause. I have been thinking about the wheel bearings, and will check them, but I can´t really see them causing what I´m feeling, but you never know ....

I hope I can do some more riding this year, and if so I´ll do some tests with the footpeg arrangement. I did make some small changes this winter, and that might have changed something from a vibration / resonance perspective. What´s strange to me is that the vibrations seems so engine load dependant. I suppose if I do find out what´d causing this phenomenon, I will have learnt something new              

[Howie]

To a quick and complete recovery

[MonsterHPD]

To a quick and complete recovery

Thank you. As far as I can remember, it´s actually the second time I´ve actually broken something. First time it was a toe after I collided with a friend on mopeds, aged 15, and now a little finger, aged 65. I hope I can stick to that regularity ....  

[koko64]

 

[MonsterHPD]

Well,
finally it´s happened, last friday we dynoed the M800, along with some (much needed) ajustments to the full-load map. Here´s the comparison:

Bänkning 201023_03 by torbjörn bergström, on Flickr

3-Dyno Run 2019-10-05           Last year, stock motor
4-Dyno Run 2020-10-23           First run this year, VERY rich (appr. 10.-11:1)
5-Dyno Run 2020-10-23           Primary fuelling adjustment

Basically, 10% improvement from porting, ST2 cams and squish clearance adjustement thru omitting base gasket and machining the pistons for 1 mm squish. Basically, this brought the compression up to nominal (10.5:1).
I had hoped the first digit would be a "7", but that was not to happen. Still, with just slightly creative bookkeeping, I could say it cost me nothng except the work, so from that point of view it´s OK.
If my porting efforts helped or detracted from the end result, no idea. Or, well, the way the ports looked, I actually do think it helped, but no idea how much.

Some more graphs:

Bänkning 201023_01 by torbjörn bergström, on Flickr

3-Dyno Run 2019-10-05            Last year, stock motor
5-Dyno Run 2020-10-23           First run this year, VERY rich (appr. 10.-11:1)
19-Dyno Run 2020-10-23         Many fuelling adjustments later ....
22-Dyno Run 2020-10-23         Ignition retarded 2° on full load above 6000 or so rpm

Bänkning 201023_02 by torbjörn bergström, on Flickr

#19 and #22 again, with AFR graphs.

Next up will be winter servicing, and I´ll also check cranking pressure and do a leak-down test to see where that may have landed.

  

[koko64]

So about 6hp and stronger from 5000 rpm to redline.

[MonsterHPD]

Yes,
something in that region.
Not spectacular, but OK for the cost involved, and for the experience gained :-)

[MonsterHPD]

It was my plan to do the service as soon as the riding season as over, but my broken finger both ended my riding season early, and postponed my "servicing season". A doble whammy, I suppose.

Anyway, service is on with valves, oil etc. The valve clearances needs some minor adjustments, but with the MBP collets the closer clearances stay amazingly stable.

I´ve also tested cranking pressures, which remain suspiciously low (but consistent), but I think it´s as much a reflection on the starters ability to turn the engine, as it is on cranking pressure capability. Anyway:
Horizontal 9 bar / 130 psi; Very slightly less, maybe 8.8 / 125.   

I´ve also made a leak-down test, and I think that´s more encouraging. My new compressor manages a gauge pressure of 100 psi, leakdown numbers as follows:
Horizontal 94 psi (=> 6%), Vertical 95 psi (=> 5%). I think those numbers are OK for a motor with 40k+ km, but leak-down testing is new to me so there´s more to learn, I suppose. 

Kind regards,
Torbjörn.

[Howie]

Under 10% is good, so you are fine.