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Author Topic: Update, rebuilding s2r 1k 07 engine by Mec, Complexities & Cost  (Read 3985 times)
DuciD03
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« on: January 27, 2017, 09:56:09 PM »

Okeee found a used s2r 1k replacement case, got-er delivered by ups; to replace the damaged original so I can swap all components to the new used cases; was "chuffed" at getting it; but looks like there's some flaws in the replacement case ...

Some bearings have sand in them and will have to be replaced; and a 1/2" hair lie crack on the outer side of crescent bearing retainer. I paid for this used 10K mi case; should I be asking for some cash back?

How careful does one have to be swapping components and shimming main drive crankshaft; gears; and seating bearings in the case?  I've been reading the Duc Mec shop manual; there's stuff to know and some special tools would make things go faster / better ...

One of the larger q's is, What should it realisticly cost to get a qualified mechanic to swap the innards; bearings; shafts gears and to test run that engine as proof it was done correctly?  popcorn

 Dolph
« Last Edit: February 11, 2017, 09:17:48 PM by DuciD03 » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2017, 11:58:50 PM »

Cracks are seldom a good thing.

Can you post some pictures?
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« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2017, 09:52:29 AM »

Was it supposed to be in that condition? I would push back for sure or go for full refund.
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DuciD03
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« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2017, 04:29:45 PM »

Cracks are seldom a good thing. Can you post some pictures?



Inside of each half of "new" used cases 10K mi

« Last Edit: February 04, 2017, 02:39:59 PM by DuciD03 » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2017, 10:17:24 PM »

If you didn't get the missing part of the case (around the frame mounts), I'd say it is basically a write-off.
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DuciD03
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« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2017, 08:48:02 AM »

If you didn't get the missing part of the case (around the frame mounts), I'd say it is basically a write-off.

multiple questions here; I edited the starting post so it might be clearer. Mounts on original snapped off; bought replacement case to swap components into ..
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« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2017, 09:01:42 AM »

OK, so the new cases have good mounts.

If that small flange is truly cracked, I'd finish the job and remove it, so it doesn't come off later and cause trouble.
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DuciD03
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« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2017, 09:20:33 PM »

OK, so the new cases have good mounts.

If that small flange is truly cracked, I'd finish the job and remove it, so it doesn't come off later and cause trouble.

yes have case with mounts intact; happy to have "dat".

contemplating my newly acquired used and slightly abused cases and wondering out loud to finish snapping that cracked pc off or getting it alum welded / braised (would have to be very clean; no oil ...)

... and been looking at the special tools that would be helpful (if not necessary ...) If anyone can kindly suggest, tools needed, loan or sell the necessary tools such as the clutch holder, valve tools ...etc tools that would be greatly appreciated. popcorn

Any pointers basic and advanced to help the rebuild is alos appreciated; Id like a good running 1k ds at then end of all this ...
« Last Edit: February 01, 2017, 10:05:07 PM by DuciD03 » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2017, 10:21:52 PM »

It's my understanding that the mains can break the case, especially when over-revved. There's an SAE paper on Duc cases... I don't have the link ready, and it mostly pointed to race applications, but failure modes in that kind of application can be pretty catastrophic.

Welding that fine of a crack (behind the primary gear) on a cast case sounds like a recipe for indeterminate future failure. I'd expect the same if I removed the offending metal. Engineers and metallurgists would know more, but I'd expect a future failure of those cases no matter what given the way I ride. As far as I know, the alloy the cases are made of does not happily weld.
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DuciD03
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« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2017, 10:59:18 PM »



... mains have to be removed by heating the case to 100 C (212F) and set in place while the case is hot; there really tightly set in place; I get what your saying about welds in this type of casting & understand what your saying about stresses by the main bearings; hummmm; the crack deff looks like it was banged while being dismantled or during rough handling in storage ... but thinking it would be ok since its not directly holding ....
« Last Edit: February 04, 2017, 05:51:03 PM by DuciD03 » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2017, 07:28:55 PM »

I guess the question is, how upset will you be when it fails? Given that it could fail in 10 miles or 10,000 or 100,000... I don't know the fatigue stresses of that spot, but I think that the chunk that might fall out will probably cause a wee bit of carnage under the side cover.
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DuciD03
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« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2017, 09:13:10 PM »


update; its been decided; I'll get a duc tec pro to do the main case swap rebuild; says he'll do it to better than factory spec; much to my delight; not for free but at a reasonable (favorable?) cost. Scheduled to do in a week and a bit. popcorn

So no DYI; mechanics are trained for this work after all. I was up for the rebuild but mainly due to unwieldy clutch nuts torqued on at 150 NM; specialized cam pulley nuts; bearings to be pressed into place; crankshaft& gear shimming; and that special gear pawl holder; after going to the trouble of collecting parts; I just want it to run smoothly. Plus this is really a first complete engine rebuild and its a nice engine ... so don't want to risk a major catastrophic mistake.  Feel relived; and have other challenges on this rebuild any-who.

cheers  Dolph

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DuciD03
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« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2017, 09:20:40 PM »

OK, so the new cases have good mounts.

If that small flange is truly cracked, I'd finish the job and remove it, so it doesn't come off later and cause trouble.

Duc tec; you and I agree not a big issue to finish the snap ... wish it was better handled when it was dismantled but got to go with the flow.
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