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Author Topic: LiFePo4 Batteries Issues and Diagnosis  (Read 9169 times)
koko64
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« on: October 02, 2017, 01:58:00 PM »

Noticed the wires leading into the RHS main fuse were getting warm to touch as mentioned in another thread. Hmmm, I'll check the fuse. It looked fine but I noticed it was a two piece design with the fuse blades pressed into one. Usually the blade might be a bit loose in the plastic cover but the blade halves were loose independent of each other. Wiggle wiggle. With vibration they would wiggle away. I replaced the "good" fuse with a solid looking part from my local auto store. Of course I had already cleaned up earth terminals, ground points, battlery cable connections, etc. I didnt know there were two piece blade fuses, what could possibly go wrong?
All good for about a few months, then last night my headlight brightness went from 55W to 30W to parking light to candle power. Checked it out and the globe connector had melted and you could see the inner corrosion. Oh well nearly 25 years old so on with another H4 connector from an older (but better) VFR loom. Threw in a fancy pants globe I had spare and goodbye candlelight hello bright, white, 21st century headlamp.


« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 01:16:49 AM by koko64 » Logged

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Howie
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« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2017, 02:26:48 PM »

 waytogo
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koko64
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2017, 09:52:28 PM »

Old OEM shunt Reg has popped. Got hold of new old stock but later style wiring with earth and battery feed straight to the terminals. Would you bypass the Maxi Fuse and go straight to the battery or run through the loom via the fuse to the battery? I like the simplicity of the OEM loom Vs two extra wires to the battery. I also like the extra fuse inclusion in the circuit. Pros and cons?
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 01:17:54 AM by koko64 » Logged

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Howie
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2017, 10:40:25 PM »

You want a main fuse.
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koko64
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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2017, 11:03:45 PM »

Thats what I reckon Howie.
There is a smaller main fuse but I like the big charging fuse. I'll go through the loom like I have in the past.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 01:18:26 AM by koko64 » Logged

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koko64
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« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2017, 01:45:34 PM »

Ended up using a Motolectric reg in original style with old style connectors. Covered this in another thread as I did  my Ignitech popping due to a loose wire arcing out in the Ignitech loom. It happens in threes they say so I should be in the clear for awhile. New reg, check; new headlight wiring and fancy globe, check and new Ignitech, check. waytogo.
My head light is surprisingly bright now and my bike runs sooo smooth. laughingdp
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 01:18:45 AM by koko64 » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: October 28, 2017, 04:23:44 PM »

 waytogo
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LowercaseJake
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« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2017, 08:29:23 PM »

Rick's makes one with MOSFET technology. Uses the stock loom and I'd assume main fuse. I simply soldered 2/3 connectors as one for my old 2 wire 900. Great R/R's.

Chris at CCW strongly recommends high quality shunt style for some reason tho, I trust his advice but that was one area I felt needed modernizing especially with a LiFePO4 battery.

BTW you should try popping in a new led H4 bulb... You'll be amazed. Wink
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LowercaseJake
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« Reply #8 on: November 04, 2017, 07:37:47 AM »

The OEM Bosch doesn't receive a full, fat 12 volts from Ducati's wiring loom either. I've seen the difference when people added a proper relay, and it was dramatic. I still don't think I could ever go back to an incandescent bulb tho, after experiencing the brilliant power of LED's and the bright white, almost daylight color temperature. They also don't need nearly as much current, hence the big cooling fins they all have to disperse heat from the unnecessary power going to em.
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koko64
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« Reply #9 on: November 04, 2017, 07:51:06 AM »

I read somewhere that LiFePO4 batteries like a shunt style regulator as up to 14.5V gets through rather than a more tightly controlled 14V. Not sure if that's true and I've wondered about that.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 01:20:44 AM by koko64 » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2017, 09:18:06 AM »

I read somewhere that LiFePO4 batteries like a shunt style regulator as up to 14.5V gets through rather than a more tightly controlled 14V. Not sure if that's true and I've wondered about that.

Higher voltage is better for a LiFePO4.
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koko64
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« Reply #11 on: November 04, 2017, 10:32:21 AM »

Thanks Howie, I knew that about LiFePO4 batteries, but wasn't sure if shunt regulators let a little more juice through compared to Mosfet regs.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2017, 01:19:56 AM by koko64 » Logged

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LowercaseJake
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« Reply #12 on: November 04, 2017, 02:27:40 PM »

I'd always assumed the opposite since they're prone to meltdown if overcharged. Then again I can understand it both ways, since LiFePO4 are so sensitive to becoming bricks if undercharged.

I think no matter what you do if you're getting a lithium battery, you get the largest capacity one you can afford.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #13 on: November 04, 2017, 02:44:57 PM »

The last thing I'd spend my money on is a lithium battery.

That's just me.

I'm a curmudgeon...

seriously, the technology isn't worth it IMO. Special chargers, different regulator requirements...poor life...yada yada yada.

Gimme a good old lead acid battery. You can almost see the electrons flowing. Grin
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Howie
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« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2017, 10:26:03 PM »

Thanks Howie, I knew that about LiFePO4 batteries, but wasn't sure if shunt regulators let a little more juice through compared to Mosfet regs.


Gotcha.  Read too quickly.  Both work similar since they control voltage by turning current on and off quickly.  The difference is how.  Mosfet transistors are capable of handling higher amperage and run cooler, both a big advantage.  I have no idea why any manufacturer wouldn't use mosfet if they are using an alternator capable of powering more than a headlight, ignition coil and tail light would not spec mosfet.  As far as output voltage goes it is, I believe, the luck of the draw.  IMO, my bigger concern with voltage output at low engine speed.

If I wanted to use a LiFePO4 battery it would be an EarthX,  Built in board for cell balancing and will shut down if the battery voltage gets too low.  Oh, and your battery tender will be fine as long as float is 13.3 volts or above.  There appears to be only one dealer in Australia.  https://earthxbatteries.com
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