97 M900 - NOT STARTING

[greenohawk69]

The cap on the end of the spark plug wire that clips onto the spark plug wire.  It has a 5K ohm resistor.  Meter has to be on a scale higher than 5K ohms.  NEVER power on with an ohmmeter.  My next step would be to confirm power is getting to the ignition modules.  Unfortunately I don't remember the wiring on the modules, but the power does come directly from the kill switch.  Also make sure the ground is good at the modules.  One probe on the black wire at the module connector, one probe to negative on the battery.  Close to 0 ohms.  Is it possible to borrow a known good module?  Do be careful!  Under employed and ignition modules do not go well together.  

Am I correct in assuming everything but the ignition (warning lights etc.)  is working?

Maybe Speeddog could come to the red phone?

CA Cycleworks Exact Fit coils, resistance:  H = 56.9K and V = 57.1K (200K ohm set)

Ignition Control Units (ICU) resistance:  H = 0.5 and V = 0.4

Warning lights:  Headlight, turn signals, don't remember if "N" was previously lit. I have an Acewell speedo / tach.

Power to Coils was present.

Connections to coils were good, re-checked and crimped so they were tighter.

[koko64]

I wonder if the Kokusan boxes got blown out by a voltage spike? Be great to test with a borrowed set.

[greenohawk69]

I wonder if the Kokusan boxes got blown out by a voltage spike? Be great to test with a borrowed set.

Not sure if I can find a set to temporarily borrow, but am checking.

[koko64]

If by chance they are buggered, I would get an Ignitech unit. The Ignitech will provide a much better advance curve  (an actual advance curve rather than an advance angle or step of the Kokusan) assisting to smooth low speed manners. They also have tunable features for rev limiter, shift light and advance curve.

[greenohawk69]

If by chance they are buggered, I would get an Ignitech unit. The Ignitech will provide a much better advance curve  (an actual advance curve rather than an advance angle or step of the Kokusan) assisting to smooth low speed manners. They also have tunable features for rev limiter, shift light and advance curve.

I have one.

[greenmonster]

Tried w Ignitech? It should work as is.

[koko64]

 

[greenohawk69]

Tried w Ignitech? It should work as is.

I have not, but thank you for answering my question I forgot to ask.

Will try it in the AM.

[greenohawk69]

I have not, but thank you for answering my question I forgot to ask.

Will try it in the AM.

Bike has started with the Ignitech. Charging battery up for a run to see it is at.

Are there any suggestions for the Ignitech software via the laptop that I should be aware of?

[greenohawk69]

Started up again...felt different running than before. Ran it around the block after warming it up with the enrichner (80* here).

Cut to 1/2 on the enrichner and took off down 2 blocks to a stop sign. Bike feels different, sluggish in 1st and 2nd. Turned right 1 block and came to a stop sign and bike died -  a small pop out of the exhaust.

Did the pop again going around the blocks again. The clutch sounds different, not in a good way compared to prior.

[ducpainter]

Nothing you did should affect the clutch.

How old is the gas?

[koko64]

Old gas, a bad regulator, loose connections, fueling issues and crap batteries can all make those symptoms. You may need to find an electrical fault that is taking out your ignition modules. Get that bike home.  Another voltage spike could cost you. You may have a concurrent issue clouding the diagnosis which is difficult and can trip up pros.

Regarding the Ignitech tuning, you need the software either on a supplied disc or downloaded from the website. You need a serial port to usb adaptor and driver software, or an old laptop or pc.

Making the connection is the tricky part, so seeing which channel option works is important. I just click on the auto channel/connect option.

A stock motor will run fine with the canned map. You can set your rev limit or shift light. It will be smoother as it has a curve rather then the el cheapo Kokusan step. You need a good map for high comp pistons.

Hopefully its just old gas and/or a crap battery. If you are using cheap ass Lithium batteries then dont do it again.  With Lithium batteries go top shelf or go home. A good AGM battery from Yuasa or top shelf Lithium will save you alot of grief.

For huge Ignitech details check bikeboy.org. Also instructions on Ignitech site.

[koko64]

Nothing you did should affect the clutch.

How old is the gas?

+1. Often the clutch sounds strange from the irregular beat of a poor running motor.

[koko64]

One other thing. As it's 80 deg F use the enrichener/choke to get it going and back it off before it fouls the plugs, using the throttle for a fast idle until it warms up. Check your plugs for fouling as that can cause the symptoms too.
If it will only run on the street with the choke part engaged then you have a fuel restriction.

[greenohawk69]

* Gas = is fairly new.
* Bad regulator? = Don't know, but will check.
* Connections = pretty confident as I've checked ones around from rear of gas tank forward to the headlight ~ 3x.
* Fueling issues = had previously gone through and thoroughly cleaned both carbs . Might need new jets as I've had the bike since '07 / '08 and don't recall them being replaced
* Electrical fault = previously, the ignition fuse blew multiple times. Since checking wires, fixing broken ones, no fuses have blown.

Any suggestions on what to check?
* Motor = stock. Open top of airbox with K&N filter and Sil Moto mufflers.
* Battery = Deka Sports Power ETX AGM. Also use this in my Harley. Approximately 2 years and 1 week old. I do periodic (e.g. weekly) charging if the battery.

I will check the Ignitech website as I did not get a CD.

Will also read bikeboy.org.

Thanks for everyone's help!