Starting bike again after long hibernation (pointers requested)

[hillbillypolack]

My S2R has been laid up for nearly 2 years due to a few things. 1- the expando gas tank issue, and 2- new house and growing son.

The bike is well cared for and just under mileage for it’s first service. Bike was run with 93 octane fuel, with Sta-Bil, Seafoam and Techron prior to storage. It’s in a heated, dehumidified garage to eliminate any possible condensation on any metal surface.

The battery was removed but is flat & need of changing. I was thinking of fogging the cylinders, possibly a dab of oil on the valves prior to turning it over. I’d probably turn it a few times with the fuel pump disconnected to get some oil flowing.

Since it’s been unused for that length, is there anyone who’s seen internal rust or oxidation?  I’m hoping not.

I’m not putting the bike into regular service ‘yet’, just starting it. The belts and other fluids will need changing.

Thanks for any pointers.

[BK_856er]

Sounds like you did good prep + used a heated/dehumidified storage space.  Every bike should be so lucky.

You didn't mention if you stored it with fresh oil or plan to drain/fill prior to first startup.

I suppose it couldn't hurt to fog the cylinders or add some oil through the sparkplug holes and manually turn it over a bit, but hardly seems necessary.

I stored mine (not planned!) for a few years in an unheated garage (N. California!) with the tank off.  Fresh belts and oil and it started up just fine and is running better than ever.  Fresh brake fluid, too.  2k miles of twisties in the last couple of months and it hasn't skipped a beat.  Will probably service the shock and forks this winter just because.

BK

[hillbillypolack]

Fogging the cylinders and a few revolutions manually is a good idea - something I was considering anyway. The oil was fresh at the time of storage - full synth- so I think that’s okay at least for startup. I’ll probably change the fluids this winter. Again, just because.

Shock & fork service might be something I consider but I was thinking of an SBK conversion to the front anyway.

The reason for my initial post was my dad, an old school muscle car guy would want to examine the valvetrain, re lube or tear down & rebuild if an engine sat for more than a year.

[koko64]

Old school thorough

[BK_856er]

Might also be a good to check the date code on your tires.  When I restarted recently I had a nearly new set of Michelin Pilot Power 3 on the bike that by that time were ~5yrs old.  I was ready to replace outright on principle alone, but they seemed fine and not lacking for grip.  Fast forward to some coldish damp roads lately...let's just say I've had some "moments" that have me reconsidering!

Your fresh synthetic oil fill prior to storage is ideal.  It's the acids/moisture from combustion that contribute to internal corrosion.  Some folks "overfill" crankcase oil for long storage to get more of the rotating bits submerged/protected.  Modern synthetics will have good cling qualities that old school dino juice can't achieve.

Can't replace brake fluid often enough to keep the systems healthy.  Rust never sleeps, right?

If you're not going to actually ride it, might be better off letting it slumber vs. idle for a bit.  Just my $0.02

BK

[hillbillypolack]

Well, after lightly fogging the cylinders, rotating the engine (6th gear trick), fresh plugs and fresh battery, she’s not starting.

From similar issues with another European bike, the tank doesn’t sound like it’s pressurizing. With key on, the gauges initiate, dashboard lights come up as per normal, then displaying ‘N’ and the red engine light. All fuses are intact.

Engine turns, chugs for a few seconds then shuts down. A light shot of starting fluid does what you’d expect but doesn’t initiate the start. I’m not a fan of heavy usage of starting fluid since the bike should light up easily.

Since there’s no sound of the tank being pressurized I’m guessing the fuel pump went south. If that’s the case, is it possible to replace the pump itself or are there secondary issues that need fixing and $$?

Between the fuel tank expanding and the likelihood of the fuel pump it’s really a disappointment.

[Howie]

Before anything, first check the fuel pump relay.  If that is good, make sure you are getting voltage to the pump.  Not just the connector at the bottom of the tank, but the pump itself.  Sometimes the wire in the fuel level sensor goes bad.  Search this board for fixes.

[hillbillypolack]

Before anything, first check the fuel pump relay.  If that is good, make sure you are getting voltage to the pump.  Not just the connector at the bottom of the tank, but the pump itself.  Sometimes the wire in the fuel level sensor goes bad.  Search this board for fixes.

Thanks. I’ll search, but if you have a link or two that would help a bunch too. Electrical troubleshooting isn’t my strong suit unfortunately.

[LowercaseJake]

Fogging the cylinders and a few revolutions manually is a good idea - something I was considering anyway. The oil was fresh at the time of storage - full synth- so I think that’s okay at least for startup. I’ll probably change the fluids this winter. Again, just because.

Shock & fork service might be something I consider but I was thinking of an SBK conversion to the front anyway.

The reason for my initial post was my dad, an old school muscle car guy would want to examine the valvetrain, re lube or tear down & rebuild if an engine sat for more than a year.

Man that would certainly be effective but sure seems excessive...I'd squirt a little oil into the plug holes, rotate the crank by hand a few times, then consider it good to go.

I know less than nothing, tho.

[hillbillypolack]

Man that would certainly be effective but sure seems excessive...I'd squirt a little oil into the plug holes, rotate the crank by hand a few times, then consider it good to go.

I know less than nothing, tho.

I figure it's getting to know the bike, plus, it keeps my backside off the asphalt so I kind of owe it something. . .

[hillbillypolack]

Before anything, first check the fuel pump relay.  If that is good, make sure you are getting voltage to the pump.  Not just the connector at the bottom of the tank, but the pump itself.  Sometimes the wire in the fuel level sensor goes bad.  Search this board for fixes.

I'm working my way slowly through the backside electronics.  I visited the local dealer, asking lots of questions. 

What I'm hearing is this (in sequence), key the ignition 'on', and the dials come up, needles move.  At about the same time, I do hear the relay click.  I don't hear the fuel pump prime the tank.

Visiting the dealer, I understand you can put 12v through the fuel pump lead using the two thickest wires (in my case black and white).  They suggested also reversing voltage to see if the fuel pump itself is stuck.  I did that, and nothing moved.  Tried it with the ignition keyed 'on' (in case that made any difference), still nothing.  Next step is to drain and remove tank, pull the fuel pump assembly to see what I can find out.

It sounds like man of the parts are now available separately (pump body, wire kit, etc), when previously it was a dealer-only purchase.. . .

[hillbillypolack]

Daily update
Drained & pulled the tank, bench tested the relays (both working 100%).

After trying to run the fuel pump with +/- leads from the wiring harness end and no result, I directly connected +/- leads to the fuel pump, which whirred per normal. Initially I thought it may have been frozen.

So it sounds like my issue is the wiring, which sounds straightforward. How do I remove the skirt / housing of the pump body to gain access to the connections within it?  It looks like there are press fit clip/washers holding the base to the flange.

[stopintime]

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=68789.msg1272004;topicseen#new

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=69062.0