Belts questions!

[VeryMetal]

My bike just went over the 12k miles mark so I'm about to change the belts. I have a couple questions before I order the parts and go to town - As far as belts are concerned I've noticed several different types of belt for my bike - rounded tooth, square tooth, racing belts, belts from different brands, oem etc..

Which in your opinions are the best belts for the money for my bike? 2002 750 i.e. dark. any links to where they can be bought etc. would be really helpful.

One more question - I want to check my valves and adjust them if necessary, although I'm really not sure I want to do it myself, seems like something I would screw up. I'm aware that the belts may need to come off while doing this, I'm trying to figure out whether it would be better to just get the shop to do the work?? An ems shim kit is like 300 bucks.. so I might even save money?? I was told by the guys at my shop not to worry too much about the valves, get the belts done if you have to do it one thing at a time. I'm also aware that I am going to have to buy more tools to do the valves my self. I don't know, just throwing this stuff out there to see what you guys think.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Slide Panda]

You'd need to match up your displacement and year to get the right belts.  Based on the selections at ca-cycleworks, you'll be snagging a set of OEM round tooth belts for a 98 and newer 750.

http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/maint.html

There's some video tutorials and write ups on doing valve checks for 2v Duc plants. 
To do the job properly, the belts need to come off.  Part of the job is to rotate the cam by hand to check for binding - can't very well do that with the belts on.

A shim kit will be good for a number of checks - so in the long term a good value.  If you only ever do the 1 valve job it's about the same as labor costs.  But check with your local duc shop.  People have foudn that some are willing to take your shims and give ones out of their sets in return (usually plus a charge) 

[metallimonster]

yuu,

I need to check my valve clearance and replace my belts but I am going to wait for winter.  Do I need to get the whole kit mentioned above or since I won't be riding it, can I just order the ones I need once I get everything apart?

[Slide Panda]

yuu,

I need to check my valve clearance and replace my belts but I am going to wait for winter.  Do I need to get the whole kit mentioned above or since I won't be riding it, can I just order the ones I need once I get everything apart?

One doesn't ever *need* to buy a whole shim kit.  Just makes it faster to have them all on hand.  IF you're taking stuff apart, times on your side so you can just order what you need. 

[uclabiker06]

Part of the job is to rotate the cam by hand to check for binding - can't very well do that with the belts on.

Can you elaborate on what exactly that means.  If there is binding what does it feel like when you rotate the cam?  Will anything get messed up if the cam is rotated by hand?  Can it be rotated in both directions.

[Slide Panda]

Binding... well it feels like binding.  If you rotate teh cam by hand there will be resistance at points due to the spring.  But this resistance should feel even.  If you encounter a feeling of grinding or the in ability to turn the cam past a given point by hand, with reasonable force then you've got some binding.

No you won't damage anything by rotating the cam by hand.  Just make sure the piston for the cyl you're working on it's at TDC.  if it is the valve can hit the piston face.  It won't hurt it when hand turned - but will seem like binding and sure won't let your turn the cam 360.

Both directions... I think so.  But I'm not 100% sure of that. 

Here's some videos for ya
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/videos/

[carlosbarrios]

No need to buy the EMS kit.  I did mine over a "rainy" week this spring.  Check ALL the valves first, determine what you need.  You can move shims around, and sand them down if you need thinner shims.  I had 4 somewhat at the edge of the specs I was using.  I moved them around, sanded them, and ended up only having to order 1 shim.  Ordered from EMS, it came in 3-4 days.  Just make sure when you order them, that you round UP to the next step size.  You can always sand the shims down if they are too thick, but if it's too thin, it's no good.

Total 12k service at the dealer last year: $200 parts + $450 labor = $650

Total 20k service in my garage this year: $160 parts + $0 labor = $160

[Slide Panda]

Just make sure when you order them, that you round UP to the next step size.  You can always sand the shims down if they are too thick, but if it's too thin, it's no good.

Words of wisdom.

And when sanding - be sure to do it on a FLAT surface.  A small sheet of glass is perfect.  Keep the working surface wet and check the shim your working often.  You're talking about very small amounts that you need to sand down, so don't rush.   And 600 or higher paper's probably a good idea.    Coarser grit will take off material more quickly, but will leave a rougher face on the shim.  I got a set of papers that went up to 2500 from a computer mod shop for lapping the surface of heat sinks.  2500 is almost like polishing.