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Author Topic: Current clutch slave options - older Monster  (Read 5414 times)
ian48th
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« Reply #15 on: May 03, 2018, 07:32:09 AM »

ducpainter, do you think these two are all I need?
piston and spring kit: https://www.gothamcycles.com/ducati-clutch-slave-cylinder-piston--spring-rebuild-kit.html
piston spring oil seal ring gasket: https://www.gothamcycles.com/Clutch/ducati-clutch-slave-cylinder-piston-spring-oil-seal-ring-gasket.html

and optionally the housing.  Have you replaced just the oil seal on yours?

I'll try to remove the piston and seals from the old stock unit and see how it all looks.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #16 on: May 03, 2018, 10:51:34 AM »

I've never replaced the piston or spring on mine...just a seal, and used a hone to clean up/deglaze the bore.

Buy a 930.4.009.1a seal, a 93785.0822 seal, and if yours is leaking a 672.1.006.1a boot because brake fluid eats the boot, and the boot keeps chain mung off the outer dust seal and out of the cylinder.

Those 3 items will set you back about $11...ish. $70 for the piston kit is ludicrous.

When you get the parts check back in and we'll discuss the rebuild procedure. You'll need a hone of an appropriate size.
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ian48th
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2018, 06:48:43 PM »

Great info, ducpainter, thanks! I think I'll give it a try.

For the curious, here's a page that shows the three parts mentioned and prices.
https://www.ducatimcparts.com/showassembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=439905&ukey_make=1051
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koko64
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« Reply #18 on: May 04, 2018, 05:55:14 PM »

Makes me want to stay with the old style 26mm oem on the old M900. Works well.
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ian48th
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« Reply #19 on: May 06, 2018, 11:47:08 AM »

ducpainter, do you have any suggestions for removing the seal ring (93785.0822) from the piston? Mine's a bit crudded up from having been removed and put away without disassembly and I haven't figured out how to pull it out yet without damaging the cylinder.

I got the cylinder out of the housing by using a small electric air pump.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #20 on: May 06, 2018, 01:07:14 PM »

Clean up the crud with some fresh brake fluid and some fine scotchbrite. You should be able to use a pick to slip the old seal off the piston once things are cleaned up a little.
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ian48th
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« Reply #21 on: May 30, 2018, 08:54:59 PM »

Follow up:

I got the seals, smoothed out the bore of the original slave cylinder as best I could, and re-installed.  Have only had a short ride since then, but the slave does not appear to be leaking and the clutch is again working as it should.

There is what I believe is a pre-existing leak from where the pushrod passes through the engine case.  Might have to do something about that.  Could be a coincidence, but it started after a recent service that involved a switch to full synthetic oil.

I measured the bore of the Evoluzione slave and it's 28mm.  Stock is 26mm.

I've got a 2,500 mile road trip coming up in a few weeks, so will get in some more miles soon to see if it'll do the job or if I'll have to break down and get another unit.  Hoping to keep the stocker. 

Fingers crossed.   
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koko64
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« Reply #22 on: May 31, 2018, 02:29:44 AM »

 waytogo

Oil getting past that pushrod means it is time to replace the two little o rings in it's grooves (on the slave cylinder end).
Do a search on this type of leak for more info as there is alot posted on this topic. Sponsor California Cycleworks stock these little o rings.
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bdfinally
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« Reply #23 on: May 31, 2018, 06:42:36 AM »

I didn't find that thread, but I called my local dealer who told me that the original part for my bike was in fact replaced by another, part number 23610104A, which is just the clutch slave housing.  I poked around online and see that there is also a rebuild kit that goes along with it - you'd need both.  There are photos at the following links.

part # 23610104A
Ducati Clutch Slave Cylinder for all Ducatis 2000 and earlier.   This is the outer housing only.
https://www.gothamcycles.com/Clutch/Ducati-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Early-Style_1.html

part # 19590023B
OEM Ducati Clutch Slave Cylinder Spring & Rebuild Kit for all Ducatis 2000 and earlier.
https://www.gothamcycles.com/ducati-clutch-slave-cylinder-piston--spring-rebuild-kit.html

I don't know what the diameter of the bore is, but I'm leaning towards this.




Those rebuild kits are $47.00 from Ducati Omaha for future reference
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koko64
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« Reply #24 on: May 31, 2018, 01:03:26 PM »

How much is a new oem clutch slave cylinder?
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ian48th
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« Reply #25 on: May 31, 2018, 08:45:08 PM »

How much is a new oem clutch slave cylinder?

I think you'd have to order the parts individually.  When I talked to my local Ducati shop I think the housing was 110 CAD, so roughly 85 USD.  The seals, as ducpainter pointed out, are something like $11.  Don't see why you couldn't re-use the cylinder and spring.  And you should probably replace the copper crush washers around the banjo bolt - another buck or so!

In my case, the housing needed a fair bit of work to get it nice and smooth.  Hopefully smooth enough.

I've replaced the O-rings on the pushrod already, so I'll clean it up, do a little more riding, and check again.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #26 on: June 02, 2018, 05:14:52 AM »

Usually the worst part of the cylinder bore is at the outside edge and is caused by moisture from the outside. The seal never gets out that far, so that doesn't have to be perfect. If you hone enough to remove that every time you'll get the bore too large eventually
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


ian48th
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« Reply #27 on: July 10, 2018, 07:21:34 PM »

2,700 miles later and the stock slave cylinder is holding up just fine with the new seals.  One tip that my local dealer gave me was to use Scotch Brite on the inside of the slave cylinder bore and to focus on removing any grooves or scratches that are in line with motion of the piston.  I definitely recommend going this route versus getting an aftermarket unit unless you really want a lighter pull at the lever.
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koko64
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« Reply #28 on: July 11, 2018, 01:15:42 AM »

 waytogo
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