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Author Topic: Electrical issue: lights  (Read 2347 times)
1.21GW
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bikeless


« on: July 03, 2018, 03:52:41 PM »

So I had my front-left blinker go out.  I checked the bulb and it was fine so I figure it was a wiring thing.  I tried turning the front end from left to right to see if it came on briefly, which would indicate simply a loose connection.  Instead, all the lights went out instantly after one turn of the forks.  But there is power, so I believe it's a connection related to lights only.

Here is what works and what doesn't:

WORKS
- brake light WHEN BRAKE IS APPLIED (that is, "running" taillight is off)
- Headlight both regular and high beam
- Horn
- Engine (it starts up fine)
- Battery is completely new and has been on a tender.  Voltage check read mid-13.

DOESN'T WORK:
- Blinkers
- "Running" taillight (i.e. non-applied brake)
- Dashboard lights (all non-functioning EXCEPT the hi-beam indicator)

I checked the fuse box and all fuses are good.

So where else can I check?  Is there somewhere where all the above non-working wires converge?  A fuse I am missing?  I'm inspecting the front end cluster behind the headlight and it all looks okay: no tears or loose connections.  That said, it's chaos in there so it's hard to see everything.

Suggestions?

(Paging Howie.....)
« Last Edit: July 03, 2018, 04:45:36 PM by 1.21GW » Logged

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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2018, 05:15:45 PM »

Look for a bad wire in the harness where it wraps around the steering head.
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« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2018, 09:25:58 PM »

Check fuse #3 again, since it powers everything not working.  With your meter, not your eye.  Next step is look were Nate said, since it is most common  plus your wiggle test sends you there.  Wiggle as much as possible before opening the harness to avoid making a mess.  Replacing the fuse with a circuit breaker of the same amperage.  Maybe check back before tearing into the harness.  Ummm...might be a good idea to disconnect the left hand switch before tearing into the harness.  Problem could be in the switch.

What is your schedule?  If you can't get through I might be able to get up there.
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1.21GW
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bikeless


« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2018, 06:29:45 AM »

So it was indeed the fuse.  It had blown but without burn mark and the two sides of wire (although split) were so close to each that they looked connected.

The FL light is having issues and keeps causing a short.  I checked the wires and it didn't look like anything was exposed or touching the frame, but I went through 3 fuses before I gave up and let it unconnected.  So I'll just replace the light.



Thanks guy.  waytogo
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« Reply #4 on: July 04, 2018, 07:17:38 AM »

FL light?
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1.21GW
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bikeless


« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2018, 12:35:00 PM »

Front Left
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« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2018, 01:59:30 PM »

Disconnect the blinker.  Fuse no longer blows replace or repair blinker.  Fuse still blows disconnect switch.  Fuse stops blowing replace or repair switch.  Fuse still blows, unfortunately you are looking at a repair in the harness.  Do consider what I said before, 7.5 amp circuit breaker adapted to temporarily substitute the fuse until the repair is complete.  This will save you fuses and trips to the store.
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« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2018, 02:29:38 PM »

Bring it to DIMBY as is, and we can all watch/instruct/help   Grin
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2018, 03:21:14 PM »

Bring it to DIMBY as is, and we can all watch/instruct/help   Grin

Been there done that. Tongue
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
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    is even more amazing than yours."
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    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #9 on: July 06, 2018, 04:56:38 AM »

How about pictures of the issue (s).
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