Ducati Monster 600-620 with carbs and Ignitech - Tooth Count?

[Dirty Duc]

So, two things. One, your tps might not be the same as anyone else's. I don't know how ignitech does it, but there should be a way to grab closed and WOT values.

Two, the normal operating state of that sensor is with power, ground, and sense. Usually reference voltage is 5v, but 12v from battery works, also. It's a noisy thing, so if it is kicking back and beating on the sprag while trying to start, try a resistor in the sense wire. Also, put some heat shrink on those connectors, it looks like you have stray solder running across them.

[Dirty Duc]

The base advance and max advance numbers do look whacky from a carburettored bike guy's perspective. Carbed 900/750 bike oem base advance in comparison is 6 deg and max 36 (less max advance depending on compression). This carbed bike info may be irrelevant however.
The base line Ignitech maps for carbed bikes appear to be 6-35 deg. I read on bikeboy.org that the higher comp 600's had 32 deg max advance.

On the injected bikes, it's either 0 or 7.5 degrees initial, and 45 degrees more for max advance.

[Speeddog]

I'm wondering if this is potentially a wiring issue, even.

I have two of the pins of the cam sensor wired to earth....

~~~SNIP~~~

This may not be all of the problem, but I'd say it's a big part.

[koko64]

On the injected bikes, it's either 0 or 7.5 degrees initial, and 45 degrees more for max advance.

[Dirty Duc]

By max, I mean max allowable based on those tooth counts... I don't know what the actual ignition curve looks like on a stock bike on pump gas.

[koko64]

I guess a 620 could use a base advance around 7 and up to 32-36 max advance on a custom curve. Say 10.5-1 compression on pump gas? Maybe 36 deg max advance on premium and 32 if there is only base fuel available. That's the beauty of the Ignitech ay?

[koko64]

How's it goin'?

[tastybaklava]

No luck just yet.

Although, I have another question...

I'm wondering if anyone knows if the crank sensor on the 620 specifically is an inductive sensor or hall effect sensor?

That would change how this sensor is wired in, in that one of the connections would need to be a power supply while the others would be signal and ground, rather than the current config of signal, ground and shield.

[Howie]

Inductive.

[tastybaklava]

Great, thanks mate. That confirms that my pinouts are correct, then.
I'll work on sorting out some shielded wiring to see if that sorts out the issue.

[Dirty Duc]

The sensor needs power. I forget the exact specs, it's from like 4-16V.

Ducati provides 5v. I am running the LSR Ducatis with the same sensor at 12v.

[tastybaklava]

I clipped the plug off the end so I can solder directly onto the wires and also so I could see the colour coding / work out the pin outs.

I've found that there's a bare wire running down it (shield), a black wire (earth) and a yellow wire (signal).

After buying some shielded cable, I soldered it all up and I just need to crimp the connectors for the other end, where it hooks up to the ignitech, earth, etc.

I'll post an update soon.

[Dirty Duc]

So, I'm confused. The 620 uses the old two bolt sensor, or Ducati uses two sensors that are externally indistinguishable but act totally different?

I have three, they have been swapped between bikes, and only one of those bikes has a factory ECU. It isn't impossible for me to have gotten lucky that they're all the same, but it does increase the odds I'll end up with a VR ass opposed to Hall effect sensor that I won't be able to identify.

From the wiring harness side, there is a black, Brown, and red wire inside the sheath. Off the top of my head, black is ground, +5V is red, and signal is brown.

I don't remember the order of the pins, but it was available on the internet a few years ago.

[tastybaklava]

Nope, mine has one bolt.

Also, the cable pinouts I'd mentioned when I lopped the plug off my sensor cable seem to support the wiring diagram mentioned over here:

https://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/56514-900fi-engine-replacing-750carby.html

[tastybaklava]

I've rewired the sensor using shielded cable and I'm still getting the same result - outlandish degree readings and the bike refusing to even so much as splutter when turning it over.

I've tried two sets of tooth settings and confirmed the wiring is correct.

Here's some screenshots for your amusement...