s2r clutch not fully engaging

[koko64]

I dont know the tech data on those oils, but they flow and splash easily when decanted. Penrite 10/40 is visibly more viscous at room temp and how it comes out of the bottle, it reminds me of old straight 50. The V8's and big bore single and twin motorcycle engines love it.

They make a point about the zinc additive, I wish I could ask George about it. RIP.

[ducpainter]

Sounds like Penrite is doing something unconventional. 10w full synthetic should pour like 10w.

No wonder a wet clutch doesn't like it.

[koko64]

It's quite obvious to the eye for sure. "Total zinc additive package" was a point in their pitch.

[Howie]

My 750 clutch didn't care much about oil.  Of course, less drag cold with 10W.Seems like the APTC clutches were fussy, but about slipping, not drag.

[pmazdan9]

Mine had exact same symptoms as you described, this progressed with time to the point when it was not road worthy. Turned out to be a loose clutch basket nut. I also found some other damage - see this topic for full story if interested.

I have replaced clutch, engine oil (obviously) and I know everything is within specs, torqued properly and in good shape. Clutch still drags a little bit (bikes not moving really but I can feel it wants to if you know what I mean) and I've tried both OEM and aftermarket slaves. I guess it's one of them things that you just need to live with When mine's cold, it ocassionally stalls when put in 1st, but that's because my idle is set very low (1000 rpm) and as cold engine oil is more viscous, engine dies cos it can't spin with that much resistance on low rpm. It's fine on 1200 rpm (with fast idler lever).

If you still think there is an isuue, pull your clutch. It's easy. You don't need any special tools to inspect it as you don't need to take the clutch basket off!
- get manual, it gives you correct specs and check list
- check clutch pack stack height and all individual plates (warpage, thickness, colour; see manual)
- check the 6 big springs and 3 small ones under the pressure plate (again, refer to manual for specs)
- inspect and grease pushrod (maybe it's bent?), replace orings (they're like £2.50 so just do it)
- check throw out bearing
- check if there are any notches on clutch hub or inner basket, or any obvious damage; if you find something, I would remove the basket and check damper springs in the back of primary driven gear - yes in this case you'll need to buy/fabricate a tool but it's worth doing it as broken springs can cause catastrophic damage
then put it back together and make sure everything is torqued properly