another Ducati 1000 build....

[buzzer]

One of the most difficult things I find to make on a bike is the seat… this one i have used a different approach as (a) its a dual seat and (b) I am making the base out of aluminium. I mocked up what I wanted in cardboard first, and then transferred the patterns onto some 3mm aluminium. Then I seam welded it… It came out ok, be interesting to see what its like once its to the final shape and the foam and cover is on!

[buzzer]

Next job will be the exhaust system but to do this I needed a silencer to get the mock up right… I wanted a small slim silencer, that was re-packable, and that I could fit a baffle come MOT time… and a bit retro/old school. I searched but couldn’t find any suitable, they were all too wide as I want an under seat, side mounted setup.   so I modified a cheap (£16!) stainless steel one off eBay. I would have loved to have made one from scratch but don’t have a cone roller, and to buy a ready made stainless cone is expensive. the hardest part of making this was actually drilling three holes for the bolts to hold the end cone in. the stainless is incredibly hard! after blunting 3 new drills, and buying a cobalt drill and that not touching it, I ended up making a punch and die and punching the holes!

[koko64]

You find a way as usual .
I can vouch for some stainless being incredibly hard (if not brittle). Had a snapped engine stud on an M900 which snapped flush to the case. Early 900 studs looked pretty but could  fracture, even more with high comp pistons. Cobalt drill bits did nothing so we couldn't use an Easy Out extractor. It took me a week to get it out.

[buzzer]

You find a way as usual .
I can vouch for some stainless being incredibly hard (if not brittle). Had a snapped engine stud on an M900 which snapped flush to the case. Early 900 studs looked pretty but could  fracture, even more with high comp pistons. Cobalt drill bits did nothing so we couldn't use an Easy Out extractor. It took me a week to get it out.

yes, I hate working with Stainless, drilling, turning, milling its all a real pain, and 316 grade is the worst.  I try to avoid it if I can!

With the silencer finished I mounted it on the frame. I decided to make it rubber mounted to keep the vibrations down a bit.   The collector was challenging… first one I made I was not happy with, so the second one I welded it on the inside with the TIG, which came out well and should flow OK. Stuck for a few days now as I need a couple of mandrel bends to finish it off.

[pitbull]

I am really looking forward to the finished product. 

[buzzer]

I am really looking forward to the finished product. 

plan is to have it ready for next spring...  I normally do this sort of thing over the winter, but there are no holidays for us this year due to Covid...

the speedo/ rev counter I am going to use has a plastic case...  which does not look good.  I tried to get some tube the right diameter but it was too big or too small, so I cut 12mm out of some bigger stuff and seam welded it back up, using a piston ring clamp to pull it together to weld it.  I knew it wouldn't look right with a flat bottom so I made a conical one by spinning it in the lathe.  The alloy needs to be soft for this so I annealed it by heating it up to temperature, and letting it cool.  A neat trick to know when its the right temperature is to use a Sharpie pen, and when its burn off and has disappeared, its the right temperature!  a bearing on the end of a bar makes it easy!  here is a short video...

[buzzer]

The seat base is finished, added the rivinuts to hold it on, and made a bracket so it only bolts on at the rear so it comes off easily.  The last build is a pain to remove the seat.  just need to add the foam and sand it to shape. I am happy with the mock-up but cant decide if the front mudguard needs to go central or biased to the front, but that can wait a while. the exhaust is all but finished apart from polishing and adding the hoops for the springs.

[buzzer]

many (many!) years ago I modified the frame on a Bultaco for a race seat. I put a complete back end on, much like what I have done here. I made very careful measurements using various fixings as datums, and welded it all up. soon as it was finished, and the seat on,  it was evident that it didn’t sit straight on the bike. I was gutted as I had painted the frame. No one else noticed, but it bugged the hell out of me for years! I learned from this, these days, here is how I do it… I get the bike dead upright to a spirit level on the wheel, and then make sure the seat is level. seems to work!

I have also made a new purchase...  an auto darkening welding mask...  why the hell I didn't buy one years ago I just don't know!  its so much easier!

[buzzer]

With the new seat the rear foot pegs were too far back, and uncomfortable for her legs, so important to get this right!    I have made some new hangers out of 10 and 12mm steel  tube. I made a jig first so all the angles and bolt holes were correct, and it wouldn't move as I brazed it. this is my first time TIG brazing and I was worried about strength, so I did a test piece first and tried to break the joint...  the parent metal broke before the joint so all is well there!

[koko64]

Must have a happy pillion.

[buzzer]

Must have a happy pillion.

happy wife, happy life 

been taking a few days off and getting about a bit on the bike and in the car. I have to say Covid and the restrictions to normal life have got to me a bit!

I got my parts back from the water jet cutter, another superb job! while I was there he was cutting through a 150mm block of exotic alloy! I designed the number plate bracket, the headlight brackets, and the number plate backing on CAD and sent it to him… a few days later I picked this up. I could have cut it by hand but this is so easy. I was going to sell the number plate, but I have decided to keep it… L90 fits the engine configuration!  below is a short video of him cutting the plates

[buzzer]

Strip down begins… the bike is now all in pieces and the frame and wheels are at the powder coaters. The engine is all in pieces as well ready to have the cases vapour blasted. Engine wise its all good apart from the exhaust valve guides which is a common problem on these engines… I need to replace the guides. Its easy to check if they are worn, here is a little video to show how to check them… the valve needs to “just” off its seat.

Here is a puller I made to remove the gearbox bearings.   I know you can buy blind bearing pullers (I have a set) but for the gearbox bearings on the Ducati engine they don’t work well as there is no inner race to pull on, and you end up pulling the rollers out and breaking the plastic cage!  They are also expensive bearings to replace at £60 each….  This puller expands fully into the rollers as the bolt rides up the internal taper.  Also a primary gear puller I made a few years ago, along with the dimensions for that.  I know you can buy them also (£150… where is the fun in that) but this cost me £20 for the laser cutter to knock me out 5 sets!  Happy to share the CAD drawing…

checking for guide wear...

[Howie]

Great job on the puller!

[buzzer]

Great job on the puller!

Thanks!

Collected the frame and wheels from Redditch shotblasting… another superb job! its a 50 mile round trip for me, but well worth it for his quality work!

[buzzer]

My  engine cases are back from the vapour blasters… another superb job from SP Vapour Blasting who are meticulous and I completely trust to do a good job! When I get them back, the first thing I do is clean them of any media that is left from the cleaning process. They were VERY clear of media, but I like to be sure! I then inspect all the threads. No point in building the engine up to find you have suspect threads, as at this stage its easy to rectify any that are poor. As it happens the only two that needed attention were the ones that hold the stand bracket on. This is a common failure point and I have seen a few cases cracked in this area due to lose bolts. I drilled the hole out and used a M10 x 1.5 helicoil. As these are a couple of really stressed bolts I use a double depth helicoil inserts (see picture for comparison) , just to make a good job of it.