Keeping my S2R 800 going and healthy. Winter small things, again ...

[stopintime]

You know the ones on the inlet manifolds that the manometer fittings screw into?

Could be a split in one of the manifold rubbers or not seated air tight.

Nope, but how many can there be.... I'll have a look.

I'll check those too. Do I remember a DIY check ..... spraying starting fluid around the area and listen for fluctuating revs?

[koko64]

You reckon someone's adjusted it incorrectly DP?

Good idea to check for leaks.

Nope, but how many can there be.... I'll have a look.

I'll check those too. Do I remember a DIY check ..... spraying starting fluid around the area and listen for fluctuating revs?

Drop the idle to where it belongs.

[stopintime]

Drop the idle to where it belongs.

When the engine gets warm, the idle settles at ~1,500, but it takes time to fall from 2,500/3,000. I used to be able to control engine braking, but now there's a delay.

I do have a DIY old school idle control, but have never used it. I will check it.

[stopintime]

The old school idle stop screw isn't active.

Both synch port bolts are there. So are the air bleeds.

No loose attachments or visible damage to the intake rubbers.

I sprayed what I thought was starting fluid on the area with the engine running. It wasn't starting fluid - it was "One shot" carb/intake cleaner. No reaction.

[koko64]

What work was done to the bike?

[ducpainter]

IIRC, high idle will cause a slow drop, at least it does on a carby. Try to get the idle down around 1100, where it belongs, and go from there.

The old school idle stop screw isn't active.

Both synch port bolts are there. So are the air bleeds.

No loose attachments or visible damage to the intake rubbers.

I sprayed what I thought was starting fluid on the area with the engine running. It wasn't starting fluid - it was "One shot" carb/intake cleaner. No reaction.

Carb cleaner is a better choice than starting fluid.  If it didn't react, you don't have a leak in the area you sprayed.

[stopintime]

What work was done to the bike?

Cylinder and pistons. Complete top end service - which includes parts removal.

It was dyno tested. Don't know, but assume adjusted.

Maybe trim was adjusted...

I'll ask the work shop in a few days.

IIRC, high idle will cause a slow drop, at least it does on a carby. Try to get the idle down around 1100, where it belongs, and go from there.Carb cleaner is a better choice than starting fluid.  If it didn't react, you don't have a leak in the area you sprayed.

I don't know how to adjust idle. ECU?  Again; I'll ask the work shop what they did

[ducpainter]

I'm pretty sure that the idle speed is adjusted with the air bleeds, but I'm not a fuelie guy.

There may be a stop screw. Check with the shop.

[Howie]

Check the injector seals too.  Also could be slightly leaking injectors or the throttle plate not coming to it's proper position due to dirt.

[koko64]

How many turns out are the TB air screws?

[koko64]

Check the injector seals too.  Also could be slightly leaking injectors or the throttle plate not coming to it's proper position due to dirt.

Yeah, there can be a line showing a ridge of dirt build up.

[greenmonster]

Shot in the dark:
How long since TPS reset?

[koko64]

Shot in the dark:
How long since TPS reset?

Worth doing all that stuff after a rebuild.

[stopintime]

I'm pretty sure that the idle speed is adjusted with the air bleeds, but I'm not a fuelie guy.

There may be a stop screw. Check with the shop.

There is a stop screw VERY well hidden between the two body halves. LT Snyder describes the diagnostic software in a chapter about trim - it has a box for idle speed, but without a stepper motor I don't understand how the ECU can regulate idle speed.... maybe with fuel?  Again; the shop will hopefully tell me what they did / didn't do / forgot.

... aaand we have the air bleeds.

Check the injector seals too.  Also could be slightly leaking injectors or the throttle plate not coming to it's proper position due to dirt.

I checked that they are well mounted. Just a tiny bit of wiggle - as expected from items with ok seals. They could still be leaking, so I'll keep them on the list for a day when I have time and courage to dig my way to them ...  Throttle butterflies, or rather the intake where they operate, were cleaned not so long ago and they slam shut, but will put them on the list too ...

How many turns out are the TB air screws?

Don't know. I'll check with the shop before I decide if they might need adjustments.

Shot in the dark:
How long since TPS reset?

Ages. Recently. Shop will know. Work Shop manual states that it must be reset after a replacement (means no need unless...?) Maybe if someone knocked it out of place or if wires/connectors are up for renewal ...

[Orange16]

Which model is it?

Has it changed after recent work?

If it doesn't have a stepper motor then the air bleeds control the idle speed.  Wind them in to lower the idle.  That will most likely help with the slow return to idle too.

Changing the air bleed setting will change the idle mixture, so it's a two step process.

Changing the ignition advance in the idle map is another way to change how they return to idle, but that's a more advanced step and not something that changes.